Two down and five to go

After 3-4 regular barrel cleanings with rod, brass brush, WD-40 and patch, I usually do a more thorough barrel cleaning. I use an abrasive bore cleaner to scrub and then a patch to completely remove all traces of the bore cleaner. I recently discovered JB Bore paste and trying it for the first time. I've finished two so far and ran a few shots through them. I have 5 more to go and I will be finished.....
 
This is crazy!! I just got off Amazon and posted a question about J & B before looking at this. I will go back and see if I can delete the post. Is the steel used in air guns hard enough to not be damaged by this stuff? I have a 25 Marauder with the Green Mountain bbl. I am ordering some and going to clean my powder burners. That is going to take a while.
 
I really think the worries about airgun barrels are such a myth and maybe held true back in the days of brass barrels but not today. JB will not hurt your barrel. I even lap with a cordless drill. Dan, I have built a ton of Marauders and everyone of them got the JB/Kroil treatment. I have even rolled pellets in JB and even valve lapping compound to fire lap.
 
"ajshoots"I really think the worries about airgun barrels are such a myth and maybe held true back in the days of brass barrels but not today. JB will not hurt your barrel. I even lap with a cordless drill. Dan, I have built a ton of Marauders and everyone of them got the JB/Kroil treatment. I have even rolled pellets in JB and even valve lapping compound to fire lap.

Thanks AJ. I will use it on my Mrod and RWS 34.
 
I use a mild grit lapping compound and finish with jb and kroil on every barrel I own before it ever has the first round/pellet fired. Since jb does polish and polishing does remove a very miniscule amount of metal and I still refer to that as lapping. No offense, but I have built a number of bench/ long range varmint rifles as well as air rifles, and I would not say that a break in lap is a last resort. It's the start of the process for me. Aggressive lapping, like fire lapping would be a last resort for a barrel that isn't doing what you want.

I have seen nothing but benefit from lapping, polishing, whatever you want to call it, to a new barrel.
 
For clarification: I do not manufacture airguns, but do make and modify parts and "build" guns. Same as I "build" military vehicles for a living, but I don't produce the armor plate, etc, etc. So, "build" seems the correct term for what I do. Also, I have used the term "lap" generically, incorrectly, what have you, in terms of the use of JB bore paste. The gunsmith who mentored me always refered to "polishing" with JB as "finish lapping" and I have used the term "lap" since. But, I do understand what "lapping' is and I do use abrasive lapping compounds on barrels and have yet to "ruin" a bore. I do use a cordless drill with JB and Kroil. I do also have guides and rods specific to the task.

It is very evident that you are very skilled, knowledgable, and shoot high end guns. I also understand that many barrel makers "lap" before a barrel leaves the factory. Last I checked, crosman, green mountain, and TJ's do not lap their barrels. They show up rough and in need of help. Those barrels get started at 280 grit and worked up to JB by hand, by me. I never said I was running lapping compound thru a steyr. I "build" marauders for long range hunting. I am far from an expert, but do work hard to make accurate airguns. Maybe not what you consider accurate, but turning a $500 airgun into an MOA hunting rig out to 100 yards is an accomplishment to me. Achived by working over a raw barrel that was not lapped at the factory. Even the hammer forged TJ barrels are blanks that need machined and lapped! I did not claim and will not claim to be a "lapping" artist like those that work for some of the fine barrel makers, but thru a process of lapping, testing, lapping, testing, I have gotten pretty good at making low quality barrels shoot pretty dang good. FWIW, I have went thru as many as 9 barrels in search of a "good one" for one rifle.

I apologize for any confusion due to my terminology and I also respect your input as you surely know what you are talking about and I would agree with you if it weren't for the fact that the barrels I use are not lapped. None the less, I understand your skepticism 110%. Though my title is not Mechanical Engineer, I have a very strong foundation in the field, but metallurgy is more of my strength. I can assure you that though my choice in airguns is at the lower end of the scale, it is not from a lack of anything. It is based on a desire to improve upon a platform that has proven very useful for my needs. It is a hobby within a hobby.

Based on your response, I assume that your intentions were to show that I am full of it? I am not reinventing anything. I am doing what is not done at the factory with the barrels that I am using. And, as hard as you might find it to believe, I have used lapping compound on LW, BSA, and CZ with good result. Those barrels weren't lapped without reason. The notion that no one is capable of properly lapping a bore is ridiculous!! Again, I make no claim to being an expert. I have been very fortunate to learn from some very good smiths. Maybe I am doing everything wrong, but I am getting the results I am after and I guess I could care less past that.



 
In my opinion, unless you have a lot of build up in your barrel, you shouldn't need a brass brush. I bought a Napier pull thru and a box of their patches when I bought my latest gun, an FX 400. The pull thru and patch are all I have needed to clean the barrel. I have shot over 1500 pellets through my gun and clean it about every 250 shots. The smooth twist barrel picks up very little fouling so I can go longer between cleanings.

Another reason I won't use a rod in an air gun is that the junction of the rod and brush or jag can misalign under stress and cut into the grooves and lands of the barrel. With the pull thru, there is virtually no chance of gouging into the barrel at all.

I hope this helps. (I purchased my pull thru from Air Guns Of Arizona but they are available online also)

Jamie
 
"scrane"Can someone explain the objection to using a brass brush on an airgun? To my mind, brass, being harder than lead and softer than the softest steel, should have no effect on the bore. (Assuming the absence of contaminants.) What am I missing?
Same here. I don't subscribe to the belief that a brass brush will damage a hardened steel barrel. I just use common sense and avoid contact with the rubber o-rings. A pellet skirt is designed to be larger than the bore of the barrel in order to make a good seal and use the grooves. A by-product of this is that there will be lead in an air gun barrel. I don't see a pull through patch cleaning as a way to get lead from the deepest part of the grooves. Therefore, I use WD-40 which is one of the best penetrating solutions and the brass brush to scour out the lead. I then use a patch to remove all remnants of the cleaning solution. I use the JB as an abrasive to polish and further clean the barrel after a few regular cleanings. Until I see where someone damage a steel barrel with a brass brush I will continue to use this method.
 
I bought a jar of JB Bore Paste after reading an article on how well it worked when combined with Kroil. I ended up applying the paste and a drop of Kroil to a felt cleaning pellet and pulling it though the barrel using my patchworm. The pellet came out dirty though no better or worse than using just Kroil alone. I found it was more trouble than it was worth and stopped using it on my airgun barrels and now only use it on my powder burners.

My current airgun barrel cleaning process us to apply Kroil to a round cotton patch and pulling it through and repeating one more time. Then I run a couple of dry patches through followed by a couple of patches sprayed with Ballistol. I then finish up by running 3-4 dry patches to remove as much residue as possible. After cleaning the barrel, I shoot 20-30 pellets to re-lead the barrel. So far, this process has proved to work very well with my Air Wolf.

Of note, I now clean my barrel after shooting around 250-300 pellets which may seem like overkill but the proof is in the accuracy I have been getting.

Scott
 
Blackdiesel, just make sure you keep the rod centered in the bore, don't let it ride a side of the crown or barrel.

Below is a link to an interesting thread that I found where people share their experience with firearm barrels being worn from improper cleaning. Imagine what that would do to more vulnerable air rifle barrels.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1006492171