TUXING 4500PSI PCP Air Compressor Review

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Big shout out to Brian of Veradium Air on helped me overcoming the short comings of my TXEDT032 and Tuxing whom sent a video on how to removed and service the High Pressure piston area. No more high pressure air in my coolant lines or water in my high pressure piston, no oil leak, no coolant leak for now, and purring like a kitten. Now if Tuxing sends my the parts requested I will be right as rain. Brian look forward to doing business with you soon, get that page right LOL.
 
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Camaro454 said:
Sounds like a very high current draw. Was it 110vac? With the cap start/run motor and high current draw sparks and smoke happens quick.
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This
Tuxing rates their motors funny, i dont know if its output power (750w per hp more +/-) or current draw they list. VxA=W, My motor was listed at 2200w. Yet the Locked Rotor Amps is much higher and a 5.5kva genset wouldnt run it. As it ends up, running it consumes about 3500w. But i bought the big 4cyl 100l/m "dive compressor" because a $6k bauer was too much to fork out. The nice thing is it fills a 98 cf great white from 240-300 bar in the time it takes the little knockoff shoeboxes to fill a 300cc bottle from 150-250 bar. When buying chinese, check your wiring and your fasteners. First thing i did was open the mag switch box and check it out, and the wiring was good on an over $1100 dollar chinesium compressor.

Also, burst disc people and max pressure people. 4500 psi is 310 bar. All of these chinese burst discs and safety blow off valves (no matter what theyre labeled as or claim). Seem to be 300 bar or on some dryer/filter tubes 205 bar. We get what we ask for..... Cheap products.
 
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It broke after the third oil change.

TUXING staff said this was a consumable item and not covered under warranty.

I paid 7.9USD.

Also oil is leaking from the oil drain bolt.

I purchased this on 5/22/2022.

This air compressor may explode in the not too distant future.

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adspawn said:
It broke after the third oil change.

TUXING staff said this was a consumable item and not covered under warranty.

I paid 7.9USD.

Also oil is leaking from the oil drain bolt.

I purchased this on 5/22/2022.

This air compressor may explode in the not too distant future.

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Looks like just the crank case breather box? The manufacturing quality is still chinese, and so is the customer service.
 
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adspawn said:
It broke after the third oil change.

TUXING staff said this was a consumable item and not covered under warranty.

I paid 7.9USD.

Also oil is leaking from the oil drain bolt.

I purchased this on 5/22/2022.

This air compressor may explode in the not too distant future.

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Rebuild it now. That's a symptom. Either too tight, vibration, or air leak into the crankcase. The biggest issue with this compressor is assembly. If you rebuild it. You will know it's assembled right. Use good oil. I use the Bauer oil from Nuvair but any of the good oils in this thread will work.

The oil drain bolt is because the screw head hits a rib on the cover. Either seal with silicone or make a gasket.

Mine followed the same path. Could have been prevented with a rebuild. Leaked air into the crankcase, air into coolant system blowing off the water tank lid, and coolant into high-pressure system blowing up the filter cartridge and stalling compressor since water is not compressible. Could have been prevented by making sure seals were installed correctly and head bolts were properly installed and tightened.

Didn't have time to do it myself so sent it to Veradium. Ups damaged it on the way to Brian and just about destroyed it on the way back. Ended up fixing it here, rebuilt the outside frame and installed a new intake filter, added Bauer oil, and redline water wetter. Runs great. Veradium did a great job on cylinders.

Based on my experience buy the parts from Veradium and get his advice but rebuild yourself to avoid shipping damage. Oh, and shipping was $300 or more each way.
 
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Wow, sounds like the same had the same playbook / issues. First 3 uses before the Oil vent box broke at the same place (vibration), I glued it back together no more issues. Then leaked coolant at the bottom output line, applied water sealant. Then coolant filled the high pressure side and blew high pressure air in to the return coolant reservoir blowing the top. Lastly the oil drain plug started leaking. Brian helped out a lot and so did Tuxing. High pressure air into the coolant system was torn o-ring, Tuxing sent video and parts to fix. Oil plug just added a o-ring on the nut and it stopped leaking. It still vibrates a lot on the low pressure side, so maybe tear that side apart and rebuild it. Not that mechanically inclined but it did the high pressures side so should be able to do the low side. get a lot of moisture out of the first drain plug and none out of the second, but here in the high desert I shouldn't be getting that much. I agree with Sergy1972, rebuild it, it will run better and you will learn how to maintain your compressor for years to come.
 
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Ginuwine1969 said:
Wow, sounds like the same had the same playbook / issues. First 3 uses before the Oil vent box broke at the same place (vibration), I glued it back together no more issues. Then leaked coolant at the bottom output line, applied water sealant. Then coolant filled the high pressure side and blew high pressure air in to the return coolant reservoir blowing the top. Lastly the oil drain plug started leaking. Brian helped out a lot and so did Tuxing. High pressure air into the coolant system was torn o-ring, Tuxing sent video and parts to fix. Oil plug just added a o-ring on the nut and it stopped leaking. It still vibrates a lot on the low pressure side, so maybe tear that side apart and rebuild it. Not that mechanically inclined but it did the high pressures side so should be able to do the low side. get a lot of moisture out of the first drain plug and none out of the second, but here in the high desert I shouldn't be getting that much. I agree with Sergy1972, rebuild it, it will run better and you will learn how to maintain your compressor for years to come.
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I dont want to learn about compressor repair.

I just want to fill my tank with air.

But I have already started to learn.
 
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adspawn said:
I dont want to learn about compressor repair.

I just want to fill my tank with air.

But I have already started to learn.
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My post may be pointless since you already started to learn but I wrote everything below before I realized it. Maybe it will be of use to someone else. I have rebuilt many of the square box compressors, starting with the cheapest and ending up with the Tuxing square box, realizing Tuxing machining quality is acceptable, and buying the Tuxing 2 cylinder.

Unfortunately, 4500 psi compression causes a lot of heat and moisture. It is also a lot of force on the parts. Filling to 3000 psi will simplify your life if you can handle it. If you don't want to learn about compressor repair you have 4 options as I see it:

1 in this price range is a disposable shop compressor 150psi ($150) paired with an Altaros booster ($800) for slow fills to full pressure. I have this system as well. Kept me aired up while Veradiium was working on my Tuxing. Filled 88 cubic foot tank fine (slow). Should last for many years without a rebuild. The little shop compressors are designed for running air tools and last a good long time. Altaros booster has great design and seals, won't have issues unless you try to run it fast with a big air compressor. Have a second Altaros booster, I purchased broken, fixed it, then ran it as fast as I could off 15HP 175psi air compressor and duplicated the failure (sometimes I just have to know), haven't had time to rebuild it yet. The booster I use works just fine and I ran the hell out of it at a reasonable speed, with no issues, and it already had a lot of hours from the prior owner.

2. Yong Heng - return immediately if you get a lemon (rare). ($200) + hassle with water cooling. Really the same compressor as you have just simpler (both stages in 1 cylinder). Throw it out when it stops working and replace it. Viable plan, many on this forum operate this way, they just aren't as visible as the ones rebuilding theirs and writing about it. Rebuilding is only a little simpler than your compressor (very easy for mechanical people, but a disaster for people who would stab themselves with a screwdriver). Remember OSHA limit for safe air blast on the skin is like 30psi or less, can't remember. High-pressure air can kill you and not just with an explosion.

3. Scuba compressor $3k and up. From a LOCAL place to you, so that they can service it when it needs it.

4. Any of the other air-cooled cheap compressors, that you won't feel bad about throwing out. None of them will last as long as the Yong Heng. But you won't have water cooling hassles. One of my friends has the Umarex Ready Air ($600) and is very happy with it but he rebuilds it regularly. It is the easiest rebuild of the little compressors that I have personally handled. (GX compressors may be as easy just haven't handled them). If he gets tired of it he's going back to Yong Heng and building a radiator to eliminate water hassles (like you have on your 2-cylinder Tuxing).

Whew, that was a long one. It's late and I'm at the office. Feel better now. Hope this information is of use.
 
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Sergey1972 said:
My post may be pointless since you already started to learn but I wrote everything below before I realized it. Maybe it will be of use to someone else. I have rebuilt many of the square box compressors, starting with the cheapest and ending up with the Tuxing square box, realizing Tuxing machining quality is acceptable, and buying the Tuxing 2 cylinder.

Unfortunately, 4500 psi compression causes a lot of heat and moisture. It is also a lot of force on the parts. Filling to 3000 psi will simplify your life if you can handle it. If you don't want to learn about compressor repair you have 4 options as I see it:

1 in this price range is a disposable shop compressor 150psi ($150) paired with an Altaros booster ($800) for slow fills to full pressure. I have this system as well. Kept me aired up while Veradiium was working on my Tuxing. Filled 88 cubic foot tank fine (slow). Should last for many years without a rebuild. The little shop compressors are designed for running air tools and last a good long time. Altaros booster has great design and seals, won't have issues unless you try to run it fast with a big air compressor. Have a second Altaros booster, I purchased broken, fixed it, then ran it as fast as I could off 15HP 175psi air compressor and duplicated the failure (sometimes I just have to know), haven't had time to rebuild it yet. The booster I use works just fine and I ran the hell out of it at a reasonable speed, with no issues, and it already had a lot of hours from the prior owner.

2. Yong Heng - return immediately if you get a lemon (rare). ($200) + hassle with water cooling. Really the same compressor as you have just simpler (both stages in 1 cylinder). Throw it out when it stops working and replace it. Viable plan, many on this forum operate this way, they just aren't as visible as the ones rebuilding theirs and writing about it. Rebuilding is only a little simpler than your compressor (very easy for mechanical people, but a disaster for people who would stab themselves with a screwdriver). Remember OSHA limit for safe air blast on the skin is like 30psi or less, can't remember. High-pressure air can kill you and not just with an explosion.

3. Scuba compressor $3k and up. From a LOCAL place to you, so that they can service it when it needs it.

4. Any of the other air-cooled cheap compressors, that you won't feel bad about throwing out. None of them will last as long as the Yong Heng. But you won't have water cooling hassles. One of my friends has the Umarex Ready Air ($600) and is very happy with it but he rebuilds it regularly. It is the easiest rebuild of the little compressors that I have personally handled. (GX compressors may be as easy just haven't handled them). If he gets tired of it he's going back to Yong Heng and building a radiator to eliminate water hassles (like you have on your 2-cylinder Tuxing).

Whew, that was a long one. It's late and I'm at the office. Feel better now. Hope this information is of use.
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Thank you for your valuable experience.

I have decided to repair TUXING.

When I get stuck, I would like to purchase Hill EC 3000 Compressor.
 
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A broken crankcase vent cap on Chinese compressors is common. It is an indication of the cheap plastic used to make them. Most Chinese compressor manufacturers source these caps from third party manufacturers in China. The square ones have failed for many owners of different brands of Chinese compressors. It doesn't mean anything regarding the compressor itself. I had the same experience on an old compressor and merely epoxied the two broken halves together and the vent cap never failed again. It is a cheap item to replace. Your other issues are unrelated to the cap failure.
 
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adspawn said:
It broke after the third oil change.

TUXING staff said this was a consumable item and not covered under warranty.

I paid 7.9USD.

Also oil is leaking from the oil drain bolt.

I purchased this on 5/22/2022.

This air compressor may explode in the not too distant future.

View attachment 296994

View attachment 296995

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Click to expand...

Yeah, I had to replace mine as well a few months ago. About the same cost. I bought two!
;-)
Seems like this will be the most often part replaced (fingers crossed). I've been quite happy with the Tuxing compressor. I use a lot of air monthly, so this was quite the good investment last year.
 
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How to winterize a TXEDT032?

I have my compressor out in my unheated garage where it can get slightly below freezing in the winter. I've been told to not use antifreeze in the coolant solution due to causing corrosion to the internal water cavities of the compressor. I only use Redline water wetter which I don't believe reduces the freezing temperature of water? To be cautious I drained the coolant out while running the pump to try to get everything out of the lines. Unfortunately once the pump starts to run dry it has little effect on moving the remaining water through the lines and compressor. I still see a slight amount of water mixed with bubbles in the lines so I assume these is still some water in the compressor cooling cavities. I assume not much but impossible to tell. A bit concerned about it freezing and causing serious damage. Probably would not take much water freezing to damage the radiator? I was thinking about using compressed air on the water line to blow out the last of it but wondering if anyone else has good (or bad) experiences with winterizing these compressors. Has anyone successfully used anti-freeze?
 
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adspawn said:
Today, oil is leaking.

It is leaking from the drain bolt.

The oil gauge is also leaking.

Now, I wonder what will break next...

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Oh, now I see why the darn drain plugs leak, I've got a few prime expletives for a really BAD design. I'm awaiting parts for mine, a new control module and pressure switch, both died within an hour of me firing it up for the first time. I'm not regretting buying it ..... YET.
 
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AllenH said:
Seems strange anti-freeze would cause corrosion. Freezing water would likely cause bigger issues.
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This is what Brian PM'd me:

"DO NOT USE ANY antifreeze solutions as it will pit and corrode the aluminum heads"

I could understand this if you used the wrong antifreeze but I would assume antifreeze designed for aluminum engines would work fine?
 
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Right. Think of all of the cast iron, cast iron with aluminum heads and fully aluminum engines out there that use antifreeze. They wouldn't last in a lot of environments without it. They are very similar to a compressor. Don't understand why these would be different.

Here is a little blurb on antifreeze. Notice:

3. So much more than just temperature control:​


Another problem with water is the fact that it can quickly lead to the corrosion of all metallic components in the engine, including iron and aluminum parts.
Because antifreeze mixes contain anti-corrosive elements they prevent this degradation.
Plus, these products also contain components that slow down organic contamination or bacterial buildup, which would be considerably faster if only water were used as the coolant.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU CHANGE YOUR ANTIFREEZE?​


Whether it’s made of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, in itself antifreeze does not expire.
However, the anti-corrosive factors in it do eventually wear down, and that is when you need a change.
As discussed above, IAT coolants have the shortest lifespan of about 2 years, while both OAT and HOAT offer about 5 years.
 
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