TUXING 4500PSI PCP Air Compressor Review

Jump to latest Follow Reply
MikeAllen said:
@bthurman My TXEDT033 will be delivered today. I began accumulating parts for the "T" fitting mod you suggested. I just realized my 033 has ato purge and the 032 does not. I think the auto purge may solve the problem you had without the "T" fitting. Your thoughts? I'll keep you posted!
Click to expand...
I know in my case I decided against the auto purge. I felt it was a complexity I really did not need and wanted to eliminate it to reduce a potential failure point. Maybe it is reliable so no issue? I manually purge every 5 minutes or so and not a big deal to me as I typically only need to fill up my tank once a month or so. My 032 is not modified and has been totally reliable. Lessons learned: There was some dark gray stuff in the crankcase that looked like either assembly lube of machining coolant debree. I ran it for a few minutes with fresh oil and then replaced the oil. I also replaced the oil again after the first couple of uses. The 120 volt version does pull some serious load. In my case I had to have it on a 20amp circuit with nothing else being used on the same circuit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smitty911 and Camaro454
Upvote 0
stoutblock said:
I know in my case I decided against the auto purge. I felt it was a complexity I really did not need and wanted to eliminate it to reduce a potential failure point. Maybe it is reliable so no issue? I manually purge every 5 minutes or so and not a big deal to me as I typically only need to fill up my tank once a month or so.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this information. I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
Upvote 0
stoutblock said:
I know in my case I decided against the auto purge. I felt it was a complexity I really did not need and wanted to eliminate it to reduce a potential failure point. Maybe it is reliable so no issue? I manually purge every 5 minutes or so and not a big deal to me as I typically only need to fill up my tank once a month or so. My 032 is not modified and has been totally reliable. Lessons learned: There was some dark gray stuff in the crankcase that looked like either assembly lube of machining coolant debree. I ran it for a few minutes with fresh oil and then replaced the oil. I also replaced the oil again after the first couple of uses. The 120 volt version does pull some serious load. In my case I had to have it on a 20amp circuit with nothing else being used on the same circuit.
Click to expand...
I’m lucky to have a dedicated 20amp circuit I can use!
 
  • Like
Reactions: stoutblock
Upvote 0
Sodbuster said:
I'm a new to PCP and planning on getting a compressor, possibly the Tuxing 032 model. How many of the issues from the beginning of this thread have Tuxing taken care of by upgrading their product? Or is everything basically the same as 2020 when this thread started?
It appears that Amazon at ($1109) is the cheapest at this time due to high shipping cost from China. Is the "042" model listed on Amazon for $739 with a 20% discount coupon ($592) the same product without the water tank?
Click to expand...
I too am new to PCPs. In my experience there is about a $340 difference between the 032 and the 042. For that $340 you get a plastic water reservoir with frame mounted water pump and 3-fan radiator, a molecular sieve air intake filtration system, and air flow of 50L/min (40L/min for the 042) I bought the 042 for $559 and the 032 is selling for $899 today. The only issue I am dealing with on the 042 is excessive temperature on longer term fills above 3000 psi. The 042 fills my FX Crown 480cc bottle and both of my Benjamins (P-Rod and Akela) in just minutes so not temperature issues. Filling my 75cf tank to 4500psi is another matter entirely. Currently I can only run it for a couple of minutes before the temperature reaches 180F. My unit has a single fan in the back which works just fine. I have also added another fan of about equal size. I have not yet tried just simple bottled water and Water Wetter as has been recommended by bthurman (who appears to know about what he is talking!) I have four gallons of Evans waterless coolant I am currently using. Going to add a 12oz bottle of Watter Wetter to that to see if it makes any difference. If not, I'll drain the Evan's back into the gallon jugs and just use water and Watter Wetter. I can use the four gallons of Evans in my 1965 Mustang 289 4V. I was attracted to the Evans in the first place because it did not use water, which I have read can be corrosive to aluminum.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Sodbuster and MikeAllen
Upvote 0
dorcula said:
Hey gang. My 032 with only 4 hours of runtime has started blowing air into the coolant line from the high pressure cylinder. Any pointers on how to fix, what parts to get, etc.?
Click to expand...
In all likelihood the gasket under HP head torn and now leaking into water jacket. You need to disassemble and inspect anything else is a guess.
 
Upvote 0
Camaro454 said:
In all likelihood the gasket under HP head torn and now leaking into water jacket. You need to disassemble and inspect anything else is a guess.
Click to expand...
Well yes. Tore it apart and found that the green o-ring that seals the top of the HP cylinder is not in great shape at all. Pieces of it came out when I pulled out the cylinder. Does anyone have specs for this o-ring, perhaps suggestions for something more durable?



20230321_104642.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ginuwine1969
Upvote 0
Measure the replacement that came in the replacement parts kit. Find a matching one at an auto parts store (Nitrile or Buna 90), lubricate it with silicone grease, and reassemble it. They likely didn't lubricate it on installation, may have cut during installation, and dry installation may have caused abrasion from vibration.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Camaro454
Upvote 0
Sergey1972 said:
Measure the replacement that came in the replacement parts kit. Find a matching one at an auto parts store (Nitrile or Buna 90), lubricate it with silicone grease, and reassemble it. They likely didn't lubricate it on installation, may have cut during installation, and dry installation may have caused abrasion from vibration.
Click to expand...
Yes looks like this is what happened. I would imagine that it needs higher temperature resistance than Nitrile / Buna though?

Now that I think about it, what's the right material for these o-rings anyway? It would need to combine resistance to high temperatures, oil, water, and ideally antifreeze. It seems that when it comes to o-rings, such material does not exist.

Nitrile? Does not like high temperatures. EPDM? Not oil resistant. FKM? Not for hot water and coolant. Silicone? Probably not going to work at these pressures anyway. Where do you compromise?
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Sergey1972 said:
Nitrile/buena temperature resistance is sufficient.
Click to expand...
Well I don't know. It's only rated to 225F, lower than the others, and this o-ring is sealing the high pressure cylinder where temperatures may rise high enough for oil to diesel... Has anyone actually used it for this application successfully?
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Viton is not recommended for antifreeze, so I'd be limited to running straight water...

Anyway my interest is purely theoretical at this point: I found the parts kit that came with the compressor, it had 2 spare green o-rings, so I used those and carefully put everything back together, making sure to properly lube with silicone grease. Let's see if they last now.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
dorcula said:
Well yes. Tore it apart and found that the green o-ring that seals the top of the HP cylinder is not in great shape at all. Pieces of it came out when I pulled out the cylinder. Does anyone have specs for this o-ring, perhaps suggestions for something more durable?



View attachment 342176Same thing happened to me after about 5-6 hours. Tried to get replacements from Brian V that was a dead end he said he would ship them almost 5-6 months ago and still not parts. He said it was consider warranty work.
Click to expand...
 
Upvote 0
Well if that helps anyone, 114 size o-ring seems to be a good fit there. #114, 5/8" ID, 13/16" OD, 3/32" width. This is not an exact match, original o-rings are metric but this size fits well and seems to seal tighter than the original. The original o-rings are something like 22mm OD, 18mm ID, 2mm width. As for the material, your guess is as good as mine.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Sergey1972
Upvote 0
EPDM (Ethylene Propylene, EPM) TOP
EPM is a copolymer of ethylene and propylene. Ethylenepropylene-diene rubber (EPDM) is produced using a third monomer and is particularly useful when sealing phosphate-ester hydraulic fluids and in brake systems that use fluids having a glycol base.

Heat resistance

  • Up to 300°F (149°C) (max. 400°F (204°C) in water and/or steam).
Cold flexibility

  • Down to approximately –70°F (–57°C).
Chemical resistance

  • Hot water and steam up to 300°F (149°C) with special compounds up to 400°F (204°C)
  • Glycol based brake fluids up to 300°F (149°C)
  • Many organic and inorganic acids
  • Cleaning agents, soda and potassium alkalis
  • Phosphate-ester based hydraulic fluids (HFD-R)
  • Silicone oil and grease
  • Many polar solvents (alcohols, ketones, esters)
  • Ozone, aging and weather resistant.
 
Upvote 0
dorcula said:
Well if that helps anyone, 114 size o-ring seems to be a good fit there. #114, 5/8" ID, 13/16" OD, 3/32" width. This is not an exact match, original o-rings are metric but this size fits well and seems to seal tighter than the original. The original o-rings are something like 22mm OD, 18mm ID, 2mm width. As for the material, your guess is as good as mine.
Click to expand...
Just buy metric o-rings and call it a day. They are available from The O-Ring Store.
 
Upvote 0
Camaro454 said:
EPDM (Ethylene Propylene, EPM) TOP
EPM is a copolymer of ethylene and propylene. Ethylenepropylene-diene rubber (EPDM) is produced using a third monomer and is particularly useful when sealing phosphate-ester hydraulic fluids and in brake systems that use fluids having a glycol base.

Heat resistance

  • Up to 300°F (149°C) (max. 400°F (204°C) in water and/or steam).
Cold flexibility

  • Down to approximately –70°F (–57°C).
Chemical resistance

  • Hot water and steam up to 300°F (149°C) with special compounds up to 400°F (204°C)
  • Glycol based brake fluids up to 300°F (149°C)
  • Many organic and inorganic acids
  • Cleaning agents, soda and potassium alkalis
  • Phosphate-ester based hydraulic fluids (HFD-R)
  • Silicone oil and grease
  • Many polar solvents (alcohols, ketones, esters)
  • Ozone, aging and weather resistant.
Click to expand...

And also no resistance to petroleum base oils and most synthetics, including diester oils such as SECO 500.

Here's a nice chemical compatibility chart:
https://utexind.com/materials-resources/chemical-compatibility/

Also, I noticed that after replacing the o-rings the compressor started running noticeably cooler: temperature readings at the cylinder head are like 20F lower than ever under the same conditions. Looks like there had been a small leak there from factory which I never noticed, and the air bubbles around the HP cylinder affected cooling. Eventually the leak got so bad that the high pressure air shredded the o-ring and that's when I noticed the problem.

Moral of the story: pay attention to your coolant lines.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu