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Tutorial Video: Regulator Installation in Air Arms S510

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"Patrick"Thanks for the answer matt!

Now i'll take it in my hands an do it!
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Patrick you probably dont have to shorten the hammer spring on the mrod. The S510 has no hammer spring adjustment so you have to cut it or replace it with a lighter spring. The mrod has a hammer spring pre load adjustment. However you should use a light weight hammer in the mrod with a regulator for best results. 
 
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"Patrick"@LDP thanks for the tipp!
I tought with shortening the spring its like a slingshot Hammer like the fx airguns.
not a good idea? :/
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Sure it very well may be a great idea and work perfectly. I was only pointing out that you can adjust it because I didnt realize you were going for the anti bounce part. If you are trying to remove bounce and it works you may not need a lighter hammer. Let us know what rout you take and how it works out for you. 
 
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The S510 has no hammer spring adjustment so you have to cut it or replace it with a lighter spring.
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Air Arms use shims between the hammer and hammer spring to adjust spring tension. These shims are not shown in the manual's diagrams, but I have bought them for my S400.

In the Lane's kit I got, there were two hammer springs, neither of these, nor the original, were ideal, so I shortened one and then used the shims to get the results I was trying for.
 
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"Ginuwine1969"This modification requires special tools correct? Not recommended for those whom don't tune guns themselves correct?

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Which mod are you asking about? If you are asking about the spring it is very easy imho. Beware each rifle will be slightly different so you still need to "tune it" based on each rifle to get it to perform its best. Matt cut 5mm but another one might require slightly more or less. Its still fairly easy but if you dont understand cause and effect regarding modifying parts of your rifle it would be best to have someone who does work on it. 

If you are talking adding a reg then yes it requires some basic tools. The minimum tools most people have in their garage. Watch Matts video on installing a reg he shows the step clearly. I installed my reg and it was quite easy but I run lathes and mills at work so it was stuff I am used to. After watching that video you should have a good idea if you are capable of doing the work. 
 
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"LDP"Zephyr do you have a fac s400? I know the fac s510 has no room to add shims and if you do you quickly run into coil bind. You may get to n thin shim in there but thats about it.
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No, a sub 12fpe. 

From the factory my S400 had one washer fitted (which is how I knew they existed). After installing the regulator I couldn't get near the 12fpe with the original hammer spring before it got coil bound. One of the supplied hammer springs was stiffer (i.e. more force per mm of compression), this gave more than 12fpe, so I reduced the length and used two spacers to adjust the power to 11.4fpe with no restriction in the transfer port. Matt mentions in his video about reducing preload to reduce hammer bounce, using a stiffer spring of reduced length is one way of achieving this.
 
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zephyr thats the difference between the fac and non fac. They put a heavier spring with no shims that is very close to being coil bound when cocked. So the only way to change pre load is by shortening the stock spring, putting in a lighter weight spring or a heavier one. There are more than one way to do it. Matt added a stiffer spring then shortened it. You could go with a softer spring and reduced hammer weight or the original hammer and just a soft spring. I kept the original fac spring but reduced my hammer weight significantly. I might try the anti bounce method Matt posted but mines working so good I dont want to mess with it right now. 
 
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Thank you for the warning re sub 12fpe rifles Matt.

There are very good videos available on youtube by Robert Lane, the designer of the regulator Matt installed. In those videos are detailed instruction (relevant to sub 12fpe rifles). I think it only fair to say that if used within the parameters they are designed for and installed as intended there should be no loss of power in sub 12fpe rifles. The videos make clear that tuning the regulator, firing valve spring, hammer spring (and in some cases enlarging the transfer port) is an essential part of the install.

Having had good conversations with Robert Lane prior to ordering the regulator, the installation I did did not require the transfer port to be drilled out to achieve 11.3fpe (average). I have been extremely pleased with mine, with a shot string showing extreme spread of 6fps over the first 68 shots, at which point the pressure in the cylinder drops below the regulator setting.

There are many variables that affect power during the specification and installation; while I am far from being sufficiently knowledgeable to understand them all, the same is not true about Robert Lane.
 
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