Benjamin Tuning and making parts for antiques

I know I'm late to the party with the long since discontinued disco but I'm tinkering anyways. I made my own power adjuster that can go to some extremes, then attempted an ssg but it needs extreme spring rate to overcome the mass of the rod. I took out the ssg and set the power adjuster to max at a 2100 fill and got this string. Do I even pursue the ssg with results like this with jsb 18gr?

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Pending WHICH DIRECTION the SSG operates, stop rod stationary or in motion.
In motion SMALLER ROD is desirable, Stationary rod does not matter.
I think that's my main issue, the rod was a dial indicator extension for an indicator I don't have. I may order a 3/16 titanium rod and continue exploring the ssg
 
The party for older or budget guns is never over. This summer I took a step back from the high end of the hobby and got back to the fun non bolt on roots. After my Zelos was done I broke out a gun I built years ago and revisited it. Decided on a 100fps increase and then had to clean things up so it wasn’t a little blast cannon. The old spring game, valve and hammer took the longest. But fun.

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My tail cap is drilled and tapped 1/2 unf so my bolt the rod slides thru can be delrin to help the linear drag. I still may retry with a different spring since I can with how it's put together and just have a free flying hammer maybe? It's all part of the fun, but stumbling on a consistency like I have without it is something I've learned not to squander in my many "tunes to rule them all" I've ruined on my impact.

Shot count isn't great but this barrel didn't want to group with any pellets till this power level. This gun also blew out the back of 2 aoa Delrin hdd (about to be very rare) when my 177 disco likes them just fine. And down the ssg road we went 😂 I am a stickler on noise, air use doesn't bother me.
The party for older or budget guns is never over. This summer I took a step back from the high end of the hobby and got back to the fun non bolt on roots. After my Zelos was done I broke out a gun I built years ago and revisited it. Decided on a 100fps increase and then had to clean things up so it wasn’t a little blast cannon. The old spring game, valve and hammer took the longest. But fun.

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That's what I'm up to as well. The fx stuff is close to where I want it, as is the garbage rod aea, and there's no need for custom parts so the discos I ignored 15 years ago are a lot of fun. So much so that I may even part out my Gen 1 mrod 25 to steal the trigger pack for the 22 disco. My mrod hasn't got a real purpose anymore being as long, heavy, "low power" and short ranged as it is for what it is. The bolt just bothers me too and reduces the enjoyment of a shooting session with it.

We shall see, id rather not part a perfectly working gun out and the old mrod can be fun with a single shot tray. It's that or I get the stones to mill up a billet trigger housing and machine all the parts to break nicely. Or really push my talent and clone the gen 1 mrod trigger stuff. The old Crosmans bring me so much joy because they respond well almost every time with modifications or inventions.

The ssg I made worked perfectly with the spring I had if I wanted to shoot 600 fps silently at 15 yards. Nothing wanted to group from that barrel until 800 fps tho. I'm building ground squirrel guns for whatever that's worth.
 
A was a SSG fanatic. Hell, I’d build one for an ink pen back then. You need a wicked spring for a SSG. Side lever guns like my Krals, no big deal. Guns like my Cometa’s, Prod or other bolt actions, a SSG and the spring used makes them almost child proof.
Good to know! I'm going to hit the industrial hardware store and get something nasty and see what it does even with this heavy guage rod I pulled from the empire of dirt. It worked out too nice with that rod, it's surface finish, a ream I had in the toolbox and the delrin, it just needs a little more to launch the hammer to free flight.
 
@Vetmx or @Motorhead I got a question either of you might help with. On a P-Rod for example. How do you keep a heavier spring tension from affecting the trigger. Any time Ive used a heavier spring the trigger goes to crap. Mainly just feel it in the first stage. It won’t spring back smooth. If you put to much tension it sticks even.

I tried to polish the linkage and sear. No luck after a certain pressure it goes to 💩. Guessing it’s just the nature of the beast. Probably depends on your trigger preference some too.

Thanks fellas
Rob
 
@Vetmx or @Motorhead I got a question either of you might help with. On a P-Rod for example. How do you keep a heavier spring tension from affecting the trigger. Any time Ive used a heavier spring the trigger goes to crap. Mainly just feel it in the first stage. It won’t spring back smooth. If you put to much tension it sticks even.

I tried to polish the linkage and sear. No luck after a certain pressure it goes to 💩. Guessing it’s just the nature of the beast. Probably depends on your trigger preference some too.

Thanks fellas
Rob
I was not using a Prod trigger system on my gun so I had way more issues to deal with. But I got them ironed out. My gun was regulated but because I built a SSG for it, I was using a stout spring. Trigger in the end felt fine. Someone else is enjoying the gun now.
 
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I was not using a Prod trigger system on my gun so I had way more issues to deal with. But I got them ironed out. My gun was regulated but because I built a SSG for it, I was using a stout spring. Trigger in the end felt fine. Someone else is enjoying the gun now.
I’m messing with a 1720 now. Shot it for a couple weeks as I got it at like 8fpe. Shot great but of course now I’m playing the game Again 🤦. Had to chrono so I could drive myself nuts. Trying to get a decent tune im happy with. About to stop the madness and just regulate it. I already played this game with my P-Rod.

Take care 🤘
 
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Nearly all my guns I have made SSG for works very well in most cases the biggest problem is spring rate as they all need a heavier spring which can be a problem, the only gun I was determined to try an SSG on but was difficult to implement was my AA FTP900 and when I did succeed it actually made very little difference other than saving a bit of air and its was actually slightly less consistent so went back the STD setup.
 
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I’ve had just as much success with a short stiff spring as I had with the SSG’s . Unless you have music wire and you’re making your own springs it’s difficult to say the least to find the correct springs.
Another challenge is finding the correct gap between hammer and valve, most of the time I run less than .050” clearance.
I saw a post recently where Troy hammer used twin springs the inner being much weaker and longer than the outer. Never tried that but sounds like it worked quite well. I believe that was in motorheads Kral.
 
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Surly running such a small gap is still going to promote hammer bounce?
Not from my experience. If the spring is stiff enough and you’re not slinging a 90 gram hammer, zero hammer bounce.

The other way to gain efficiency which is not as popular is a cobra chamber. ( air spring) not as popular as you would need a lathe in most instances to fabricate one. That comes from Oldpro and motorheads work .
 
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Not from my experience. If the spring is stiff enough and you’re not slinging a 90 gram hammer, zero hammer bounce.

The other way to gain efficiency which is not as popular is a cobra chamber. ( air spring) not as popular as you would need a lathe in most instances to fabricate one. That comes from Oldpro and motorheads work .
I've got a mill and a lathe, any links are are greatly appreciated. Cobra chamber is a new term to me. All that stuff I showed was turned out of junk scrap material.