Tuning a Heliboard equipped Daystate Redwolf.

Just a follow up on my adventures tuning my Heliboard equipped Daystate Redwolf .22 HP.

As stated in my previous post, the actual tuning process as I understand it, is reasonably straight forward. Although never explained in detail anywhere, the essential concept of doing so is as follows.

The Heliboard uses 20 SET-R values which correlate to air power (BAR). Each of these effects a range of shots both above and below their set value (about 8-9 total/approximately 4 above & 4 below). Each shot has an individual R value within one of the 20 SET R-value ranges. For instance if you happen to be around 230bar your R-value may be around 859 which falls about midway into the 840 R-SET. So, if your gun is shooting lets say 925fps at an R-value of 859, you would adjust the current voltage of your guns 840 R-SET in order to raise or lower your speed.
That's really all there is to it. I'm not going to get into HOW to do that, there are a couple of good YouTube videos on the actual process. So, to sum up, it's the voltage of any particular R-SET that regulates the speed at which you'll shoot while your gun is within that R-SETs range. There are two tables below. The first (larger one) is a before adjustment reflection of how the gun is shooting from a full fill of 250 bar (about 919R) down to 160 bar (about 560R). The shot string is divided into 4 colored columns. Beginning with the 4 on the left, running vertically top to bottom then returning to the top, middle four again running top to bottom and finishing with the right most colored 4. The 5th uncolored column at the right of each of the colored columns is labeled +/- and designates the amount the voltage that R-value needs to be lowered or raised to achieve any given change in fps. Volts tend to have approximately a 1.5 volt to 1 fps relational value. So, if you want to lower your speed by 10 FPS you'll need to drop your voltage by 15 volts and vice versa.
Now that's the simple part. What follows next is a bit more complicated. Because there are 8 to 9 shots within every adjustable voltage range, in order to make the best possible overall adjustment you must find the average FPS of all the shots within the range. By adding all the FPS numbers within that range together, then dividing the total by however many entries (8 or 9) you used, you'll get a mien average FPS for the entire range. You can then use that fps as your basis for adjusting up or down to your desired fps.

Since all guns have an optimal power range (BAR) in which they perform most consistently, any of the R-SET values outside of that range (above or below) should be set to the highest or lowest (depending on what end of the range you're attempting to influence) effective value.

RedWolf Tuning BEFORE.jpg


RedWolf Tuning AFTER.jpg

* indicates a velocity BELOW the guns effective power range
 
Hi Joe and thank you for your information about the heliboard.
I know its an post but i will have to clear up some misunderstandings in your spreadsheet.
On the heliboard you can set the voltage for each of the 12 programs individually. There are different heliboards 2 cell and 3 cell versions and mayby other differences. My heliboard is running on 3 lipocells and the voltage for each program can be set from 89 volt up to 95 volt in 0.1 incremental steps. The voltage is setting how hard the solonoid strikes the valve. I would compare to adjusting the hammer spring tension on a traditional PCP.... the numbers that you call volt in your spreadsheet is actually your pulswidth in (ųs) micro seconds. On my .177 redwolf hp. I range from 1000 ųs to 2200 ųs. Which equals that the solenoid will be powered in a time of example 1222 ųs = 0.0021 seconds.
I hope this is more clear to anyone that are investigating if they should get a heliboard.

Last thing when you calibrate or setting up a new programm, you dont need to calibrate all 20 pressure steps. Along with the heliboard you get a Excel spreadsheet to make it easier lets say i want to calibrate a JSB heavy 10.44 grain to like 875 fps. Dont start by filling the rrifle with air. First set the voltage a bit higher as minimum, by that you will be able to raise or lover the shooting speed for this program if desired afterwards. So choose like lovest pressure 128.7 bar (eaquals pressure step 8 of 20 settings) again 128.7 = Raw pressure 425. highest pressure 260.5 bar = 965 raw pressure then choose two numbers in between. In this case i chose raw pressures 605 and 785. Now shoot at these bar and keep adjusting the pulewidth (ųs) until you get the correct pellet speed at these 4 pressure levels. Now take time to write down the pulsewidth that gave the correct pellet speed for each of the four chosen pressure. Now open the spreadsheet and enter these values under the four chosen pressure settings. Press calculate. Now the spreadsheet gives you the calculateted pulsewidths for all the Raw pressures in between your 4 chosen raw pressures. Enter these in the calibration program and save you are now good to go... shoot a complete shooting string and check if there are pressures where it shootes too fast or too slow. Often you are finished... now you can by raising or lowering the voltage change the pellet speed up or down 20-30 fps without recalibrating...

That is how i do it....
Best regards from denmark
 
Hi Joe and thank you for your information about the heliboard.
I know its an post but i will have to clear up some misunderstandings in your spreadsheet.
On the heliboard you can set the voltage for each of the 12 programs individually. There are different heliboards 2 cell and 3 cell versions and mayby other differences. My heliboard is running on 3 lipocells and the voltage for each program can be set from 89 volt up to 95 volt in 0.1 incremental steps. The voltage is setting how hard the solonoid strikes the valve. I would compare to adjusting the hammer spring tension on a traditional PCP.... the numbers that you call volt in your spreadsheet is actually your pulswidth in (ųs) micro seconds. On my .177 redwolf hp. I range from 1000 ųs to 2200 ųs. Which equals that the solenoid will be powered in a time of example 1222 ųs = 0.0021 seconds.
I hope this is more clear to anyone that are investigating if they should get a heliboard.

Last thing when you calibrate or setting up a new programm, you dont need to calibrate all 20 pressure steps. Along with the heliboard you get a Excel spreadsheet to make it easier lets say i want to calibrate a JSB heavy 10.44 grain to like 875 fps. Dont start by filling the rrifle with air. First set the voltage a bit higher as minimum, by that you will be able to raise or lover the shooting speed for this program if desired afterwards. So choose like lovest pressure 128.7 bar (eaquals pressure step 8 of 20 settings) again 128.7 = Raw pressure 425. highest pressure 260.5 bar = 965 raw pressure then choose two numbers in between. In this case i chose raw pressures 605 and 785. Now shoot at these bar and keep adjusting the pulewidth (ųs) until you get the correct pellet speed at these 4 pressure levels. Now take time to write down the pulsewidth that gave the correct pellet speed for each of the four chosen pressure. Now open the spreadsheet and enter these values under the four chosen pressure settings. Press calculate. Now the spreadsheet gives you the calculateted pulsewidths for all the Raw pressures in between your 4 chosen raw pressures. Enter these in the calibration program and save you are now good to go... shoot a complete shooting string and check if there are pressures where it shootes too fast or too slow. Often you are finished... now you can by raising or lowering the voltage change the pellet speed up or down 20-30 fps without recalibrating...

That is how i do it....
Best regards from denmark
Are you saying that you voltage only goes from 89-95? I may have an old one board mine starts at 83-95 volt
 
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Just curious ...
how do you tune for heavy slugs.
What are your experiences with spread:
if you have lover voltage and longer pulewidth? vs higher voltage and shorter pulsewidth?

I am currently running at 90 voltage for my 20 gr Zan .177 tune @ 960 fps. With this tune i can shoot from 250 bar down to 210 bar.
I tried first at lower voltage but i had difficulties holding the speed as the pressure dropped.
With my current tune the challenge is wery small differencies in pulsewidths between the pressure steps.

Your experience is appreciated
 
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Reactions: rigbymauser
Just curious ...
how do you tune for heavy slugs.
What are your experiences with spread:
if you have lover voltage and longer pulewidth? vs higher voltage and shorter pulsewidth?

I am currently running at 90 voltage for my 20 gr Zan .177 tune @ 960 fps. With this tune i can shoot from 250 bar down to 210 bar.
I tried first at lower voltage but i had difficulties holding the speed as the pressure dropped.
With my current tune the challenge is wery small differencies in pulsewidths between the pressure steps.

Your experience is appreciated
Almost 41 ft/ibs!!. The "BB" has come a long way. I passed up a Daystate Red Wolf here ealier this year which was priced reasonable. I was perplexed with the glossy red stock. Had it been the walnut stock I would have grabbed it. Will later get a RW with walnut. As I understand one can order with selected walnut. I will sedate my .177cal Revere to around 15 ft/ibs shooting pellets and the RW for slugs. In regards to tune the RW to 41 ft/ibs..one doesn`t overstrain the system?..How many shots do you get pr.fill at this powerlevel?..