Truly sorry but newbie needs help again with Scott SCBA tank.

[Shiloh1944]

I began for the first time filling my recently purchased Scott SCBA tank. After I got help from you guys about not crushing the sealing washer on my compressor I began filling the tank. Everything was going great until I reached about 220 Bar and I heard air leaking from the SCBA tank valve. The leak seems to be coming from just under the valve gauge. Is there anything I can do short of replacing the tank valve? I am not sure I will be able to get the tank valve unscrewed as the individual I purchased it from tried and could not get it to unscrew so he sold it to me with the gauge for the same price he sells them without the gauge. I unscrewed and removed the thick rubber cap that covers the gauge to see if I the gauge could be removed. Thought there might be an O-ring that needed replaced. I don't see any possible way to remove the gauge from the valve. Here is a photo of my set up.

 

[dizzums]

no idea ... i wouldnt mess with it before dumping the air for sure .. but after that it shouldnt be too difficult to get another valve on ebay, ive seen them for 30 bucks .. you could get the old one off i bet by standing on it on a rubber mat or somthing and get a big wrench on it like a 2' long pipe wrench .. you need one anyway lol ..im sure northern has something for a few bucks ...

 

[Shiloh1944]

Thanks for the caution but I knew to dump the air. I am quite aware air under intense pressure could cause an undesirable result. 

Darn, I didn't want to have to try and remove the valve and replace it.

 

[Aimright]

The method I used to remove the valve on my Drager SCBA was to wrap the tank with a rubber door mat, then I securely ratchet strapped it to a workmate workbench with the top of the bench open slightly so the tank dipped slightly in the opening. Then I had a rather large Crescent wrench that I got on a flat spot on the valve and was able to break it loose. In replacing the valve I just reversed the procedure, but lightly tightened it against the o-ring. 


I ended up partially rebuilding the valve on my Drager, I think some of the internals are about the same, but it sounds like maybe your leak is coming from the gauge area and I did not rebuild that area when I did mine. I posted my repair in this thread, several posts down: https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/anyone-ever-have-a-tank-leak-not-gauge/#post-838695


Here is another thread I found useful when rebuilding mine: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/yellow/4500psi-cf-tank-valve-repair-guide-pictures-diagra-t195290.html But as others said in this post it might be easier to just get another valve off ebay.

 

[xindaris]

When you put the new valve in you don’t have to do much more than hand tighten it. I had a valve rebuilt professionally and it cost about $80.

 

[Hynzie]

if your going to use big water pumps or pipe wrench"s on the tank and valve .i cut a old pair of leather gloves fingers off and slid over the grabby parts of the wrenchs ,worked good was able to still catch the teeth without any damage to the metal / make sure the valve was not cross threaded and check the tank o ring dump any moisture out of tank and make sure you leave in a warm and dry place pat

 

[Shiloh1944]

I found one on eBay that said new old stock for $27.00. Looks just like the one I took off except in better condition. Thanks guys for all your help and patience with us newbies.

 

[Cajun1024]

Strap it down tight as you can. Use a big cresent wrench tighten it on the valve. Put pressure on the wrench and hit it with a big "RUBBER MALLET " works every time!! Try replacing the O- ring between the valve and tank. If that's where it is leaking or as stated replace the valve itself. Good Luck!!

 

[napairgunner]

FYI air tanks plus has the best equipment to fill SCBA tanks. I have their stikman and cascade man products which are great. I you have more than one tank its the best way to go