Taipan Trigger linkage issue.

I'm almost positive that the little block that bolt is threaded into is unanodized aluminum (raw).

Me Vet Long (purchased new) did this after a couple hundred shots. I just tightened up that bolt and it's fine since.

Some other pearls of info here....
The rod doesn't have to be completely seated into that pocket, it's fine with anywhere from bout 1/8" of room to completely seated, mostly dependent on where youve got the scope tower/tube clamps on the tube.

Sometimes after a teardown, the trigger will feel a little like it wants to bind, or at least not as good as the Vet trigger is capable of. 100% of the time that less-than-optimal feel can be resolved by loosening the bolt that holds the rod, and then resetting it. It all goes back to the clamps on the air tube being in a slightly different place than they were before. Blue painters tape on the tube prior to a teardown helps get the clamps back in the right spot.

As for tightening it to get it to stay, Allen key, only use the short end for torque and you should be able to get it tight enough to hold, and not so tight that you see strip it....if it still wants to work loose on you......blue loktite, but only the slightest little dab, and make dang sure it doesn't run anywhere else in the trigger mechanism.
 
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For one, I've NEVER seen the rod Butt Up against the pockets end. There generally shown as where it is self moving too.

Set up position of scope towers so it fits into stock and all fasteners go int correctly. Done, tighten the towers to the air tube.

With that rod pinch screw loose, Set safety on trigger.
Next determine how much 1st stage travel you want and add or decrease the gap of the linkage on the bottom screw. Once set tighten the rods pinch screw.

If needing more BITE of the screw head against the rod, Cut a small thin strip of HD tin foil and place in the trough under the rod spacing it out just slightly.

DON'T MASH down on trigger once sear breaks ... OR Back off on the Post travel screw to allow more trigger travel post sear break.

Good luck,
Scott
 
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For one, I've NEVER seen the rod Butt Up against the pockets end. There generally shown as where it is self moving too.

Set up position of scope towers so it fits into stock and all fasteners go int correctly. Done, tighten the towers to the air tube.

With that rod pinch screw loose, Set safety on trigger.
Next determine how much 1st stage travel you want and add or decrease the gap of the linkage on the bottom screw. Once set tighten the rods pinch screw.

If needing more BITE of the screw head against the rod, Cut a small thin strip of HD tin foil and place in the trough under the rod spacing it out just slightly.

DON'T MASH down on trigger once sear breaks ... OR Back off on the Post travel screw to allow more trigger travel post sear break.

Good luck,
Scott
interesting you noticed that. This is why I put together videos, people see things I would not recognize as important. The origin of the rod being set all the way back was years ago, when I swapped the reg to a huma , I did not mark the location of the brackets on the barrel! Had a real bitch of a time getting the trigger to work as I slid the bracket assembly back and forth. Eventually, I set it back and got the adjustment to work. I then marked the barrel so as to have a reference point for easy reassembly. As for the issue, I probably did not tighten the screw enough. But now it's readjusted to it's new location and we'll see how she holds up.
 
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I don't have your version and haven't had mine apart. But if what I can glean from what you are saying is that the screw backs out just enough to let the pit walk. If this is the case, how about putting a flat on the pin with a file, where the screw head fills it's gap to keep it in place even with a semi-loose screw? Unless this isn't what you were saying. Or maybe a drop of loctite blue on the screw? Or both?