Transmission/Oil coolers vs. Ice water?

Which works more efficiently for compressor cooling? I noticed in "Compressor Set Ups" that some guys are using transmission coolers. Are these used in conjunction with iced water or in lieu of iced water? My compressor should be up & running soon (THANKS to the generosity of Centercut, Socaloldman & Bigragu) & before I invest in a cooler with fan(s) I wanted to get input from guys with experience. Thanks in advance! 
 
I would think that would be a bit on the overkill side. I do have the Yong Heng and unless you are wanting to fill a vessel the size of a 74 cubic inch tank or larger ice water in a 5 gallon bucket should suffice. In extremes using a transmission cooler. I would personally opt for a heavy duty high cfm fan such as a King Electric 8800 cfm for example and still use ice water. A Vornado shop fan is only 717 cfm in comparison and 583-584 cfm for the large in home versions.
 
The last guy that posted his setup on this forum was using a large bucket of water in addition to his heat exchange unit. IMO he was adding another layer of complexity and bulk for virtually no benefit. A large bucket of water is the simplest and most practical way of cooling these things, and draining that water after use. People are always trying to reinvent the wheel. There is no need to add ice or any other additive to the coolant. The manufacturers recommend maintaining an operating temperature of the coolant at between 50 and 70 degrees C. If the water in your bucket exceeds that, change it or stop and let it cool. My recommendation is not to worry about problems that don't exist.
 
The last guy that posted his setup on this forum was using a large bucket of water in addition to his heat exchange unit. IMO he was adding another layer of complexity and bulk for virtually no benefit. A large bucket of water is the simplest and most practical way of cooling these things, and draining that water after use. People are always trying to reinvent the wheel. There is no need to add ice or any other additive to the coolant. The manufacturers recommend maintaining an operating temperature of the coolant at between 50 and 70 degrees C. If the water in your bucket exceeds that, change it or stop and let it cool. My recommendation is not to worry about problems that don't exist.

That's one opinion. I'll disagree and would ALWAYS use ice in the water. The temperature sensor on these things is at the base of the LP cylinder and very near the outside. The temperature on the rings may be much higher. My YH was used for well over a year using ice in the coolant. ALWAYS. Your opinion may be valid but may well not be.
 
The last guy that posted his setup on this forum was using a large bucket of water in addition to his heat exchange unit. IMO he was adding another layer of complexity and bulk for virtually no benefit. A large bucket of water is the simplest and most practical way of cooling these things, and draining that water after use. People are always trying to reinvent the wheel. There is no need to add ice or any other additive to the coolant. The manufacturers recommend maintaining an operating temperature of the coolant at between 50 and 70 degrees C. If the water in your bucket exceeds that, change it or stop and let it cool. My recommendation is not to worry about problems that don't exist.

That's one opinion. I'll disagree and would ALWAYS use ice in the water. The temperature sensor on these things is at the base of the LP cylinder and very near the outside. The temperature on the rings may be much higher. My YH was used for well over a year using ice in the coolant. ALWAYS. Your opinion may be valid but may well not be.

The thermometer sensor is in the first stage (low pressure) head, not in the water jacket where it would be more relevant. I believe it gives a higher reading than the actual coolant temperature. There are lots of reports of thermometer numbers running through the roof and when asked, the reply is the water coming out is only lukewarm. A more accurate reading would be at the return outlet. If people measured the temperature there, they wouldn't be so concerned about overheating and not be tempted to over-cool using ice. I hear the “I use ice and never have a problem” argument but there is no evidence that there would have been a problem if they had just followed the instructions. There is a YH dealer here in Australia that warranties the machines that he sells. He specifically advises in his instructions, not to use ice, and he describes those that do as clowns.
 
Now there is a truly adult response. Simple question to you, how much actual use of a Yong Hong have you managed?

Mine is 3 years old and has 11 hours on it. I changed the oil after the first hour break in and probably won't be changing it again. It's just normal mineral based generic compressor oil. It's still as clean as when I put it in. I've just changed a blown Dowty seal on the top of the second stage head. Other than changing filter media, that is the only maintenance that has been required. If I get 20 hours, I'll be more than happy. I have a new piston and rod assembly and a few other bits just in case I may need to repair it but when the motor goes, I'll either get another or something else. I'm sorry if you interpreted my response as childish. I intended it to be informative and to the point. We Australians have a reputation for telling things the way it is and not gilding the lily.
 
Yong Heng, never needed more than a 5 gallon bucket with some ice, even in 100 degree (38C) heat. It'll eventually top out on the temperature scale and be pretty stable. And, consider I never run for more than 10 to 15 minutes at a time.

The other method I like is to have a garden hose filling the bucket while the hot water just gets pumped outside onto the ground. always fresh, cool water that way.

If someone has an oil cooler laying around, have at it. I can't see anything wrong with using something like that to improve cooling. Just wouldn't want to purchase one, drives up the cost of the unit. Personal opinion there!
 
It's not the most convenient cooling system but it does give one options that are easy. Start with just water. If you have concerns about temperature, simply add ice. After using water with ice for a long time, I recently added a ducted fan blowing laterally across the HP cylinder/head/lines and saw a large temperature drop from that. Water/ice would usually keep it mid to upper 50's but with the fan it tops out at upper 40's and holds that temp as long as I want it to run. 
 
I have an old trans cooler and have thought about using it. I would do so if I was moving the compressor around a lot. You would need a lot less coolant so you could make for a lighter package if you wanted a one piece unit. IMO not worth the trouble. I use a 1.5 gallon reservoir and it's filled with Dexcool coolant and it has a thermometer. I've done as many as a dozen refills to 200 bar with it and the coolant barely rises 10*F. I've never used it for filling tanks so don't know how that would work. But if I do then I would throw the cooler in. It could be mounted in front of compressor's cooling fan for sufficient airflow, especially if ducted. I used Dexcool because the pump sits in a workshop that is wood heated and only when I'm out there.
 
I have an old trans cooler and have thought about using it. I would do so if I was moving the compressor around a lot. You would need a lot less coolant so you could make for a lighter package if you wanted a one piece unit. IMO not worth the trouble. I use a 1.5 gallon reservoir and it's filled with Dexcool coolant and it has a thermometer. I've done as many as a dozen refills to 200 bar with it and the coolant barely rises 10*F. I've never used it for filling tanks so don't know how that would work. But if I do then I would throw the cooler in. It could be mounted in front of compressor's cooling fan for sufficient airflow, especially if ducted. I used Dexcool because the pump sits in a workshop that is wood heated and only when I'm out there.

I have only used mine filling a tank, a "97cf" Great White. I also use a smaller reservoir, similar in size to yours. I used the compressor to fill my tank and fill my guns from the tank only. The YH topped off the tank 3000 to full pressure with no problems for a long time. I recently posted about removing the valve from the tank to check internal condition. NO moisture present and NO visible internal defects after filling with the YH for over a year. I then filled the GW from empty to full pressure in just about an hour (in stages) with maximum temp seen in upper 40's using ice in the reservoir and an external fan. They can work well but obviously they don't have the intrinsic ability or value of an Alkin or similar.