Torque wrench or not?

Use the Wheeler torque wrench since you aren’t sure.
Springer needs a good BKL mount, and proper ft/inch torque applied. Loc tite helps. Degrease everything first, including the sharp dovetail you want the rings or one piece to bite into. 

So many scopes and other items get ruined by folks not using proper tools. Good you asked.

Believe me on the BKL. It won’t creep. 


https://www.bkltech.com/default.asp



https://www.airgundepot.com/bkl-mounts.html
 
its more in the mount as mentioned .. it needs a 'positive stop' .. loctite around a scope is a 'no' and overtightening screws is a 'no' .. basically tighten the screws evenly with 2 fingers the threads dry with nothing on them, if the screws are popping thats it ... going further deforms the metal which will continue to deform as it settles and jars producing a never-ending poi shift lol .. i see no problem with an inch lb wrench as long as its set correctly and you have a proper bit set for it, i dont think its needed but hey, whatever floats your canoe ...
 
Unless you can borrow one to get a feel for how tight is tight enough then I think the screw driver type torque wrench is a good idea for a springer - or a PB. I have one but do not generally use it on my PCPs. They are easier on scopes and I've used the wrench enough to have a decent feel for how much to tighten an aluminum mount. All of my recent purchases have used metric allen head screws. That is the tips I would want to have on hand. It is not a bad idea to torque the screws holding the stock to the action too - so they are consistently the same level of tightness.
 
Ideally you build-up a sense for what kinds of torques different materials can handle. If you haven't had the experience, perhaps try tapping some threads into some plain aluminum plate, then overtorqing a bolt into the thread, to get it to strip.

Once you've stripped a few threads you build up a sense for what threads can handle.

Typically if you are putting a bolt into a steel thread, the bolt (if it is properly designed) will break before the steel thread tears out. 

I don't trust torque wrenches for teensy little bolts. Maybe there are some good ones out there, but they're usually expensive and require calibration.
 
I have hundreds of individual allen & star wrenches I've gotten with this & that over the yrs. I found by using the small end to torque the scope rings with a little locktite (blue) I have had no problems with under tightening or over tightening. I do however torque the bases very tight & lap the rings before doing any scope mounting.
 
Torque wrench is at the very least a why not item. Don't need super fancy 400 dollar version, just a sub 100 dollar Amazon one would do. 



IF you are not willing to buy a torque wrench then tighten with your fingers with short end of the Allen wrench so you really can't over tighten. Just make sure the Allen wrench you use isn't the ball end style. 



Here is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accurizing-Measurement-Gunsmithing-Maintenance/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3AEG5QH4128K0&keywords=torque+wrench+scope&qid=1649650355&sprefix=torque+wrench+scope%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-2



and fancier digital version:

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-710909-Digital-Firearms-Accurizing/dp/B01B3NW5TG/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3AEG5QH4128K0&keywords=torque+wrench+scope&qid=1649650355&sprefix=torque+wrench+scope%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-5





You will need additional metric and/or torque bits depending on your rings. 
 
Ring alignment is just as (if not more) important than over tightening the ring caps! As far as over tightening, the Allen wrench with blue Loctite method has worked for me for yrs. A rifle scope is as much a precision instrument as your rifle! If you mount it in bases that are not aligned, it can certainly do as much damage as over torquing the ring caps. Unless your gonna mount in rings with alignment inserts, I would first spring for a good lapping kit! That is if ya don't already own one.