Took a torch and milwuakee grinder to both my Hubens

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_CTAIRGUNNER_

_CTAIRGUNNER_

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May 30, 2022
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So I always use these Tnuts and I had to trim them, I had to shorten the spikes, and had to heat the plastic lmao I am keeping this brief because I don't feel like typing much but I got creative :šŸ˜œ

Anyways

The one on the bipod is my .25 I will be using for the bench rest competition at North East Airgun Classic hence the redonkulous sized scope on it.

The one on the tripod is my .22 rat and pigeon gun.

Nothing like 1 huben , definitely nothing like 2 ;)

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Red loctite is better than nothing, but these synthetic stocks today arenā€™t very ā€œstructuralā€ like a good walnut stock. I fear one of these days, especially if you lean into a bipod a lot, those nuts will dig in at an angle? I could be wrong.
Epoxy makes the nuts just a part of the stock. It cracks me up how some vendors offer a pic rail install for a few, and just use screws straight into the synthetic stock. Itā€™ll fail at the most opportune time, like if you use these pic tails as a QD for a sling(like the type of rail you and I have, in my pic below)
34FAD31F-D286-4DB5-9E23-B1E01C95DBC5.jpeg
B1CD3BB0-9646-4E23-B158-2EC7E57805A6.jpeg

If you still have a good amount of material thickness below the surface those TNuts are on, you ought to countersink them with a 3/4ā€ wood paddle bit.

Just donā€™t epoxy onto the screw threads, for obvious reasons, lol
 
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Bigragu said:
Red loctite is better than nothing, but these synthetic stocks today arenā€™t very ā€œstructuralā€ like a good walnut stock. I fear one of these days, especially if you lean into a bipod a lot, those nuts will dig in at an angle? I could be wrong.
Epoxy makes the nuts just a part of the stock. It cracks me up how some vendors offer a pic rail install for a few, and just use screws straight into the synthetic stock. Itā€™ll fail at the most opportune time, like if you use these pic tails as a QD for a sling(like the type of rail you and I have, in my pic below)
View attachment 343485View attachment 343486
If you still have a good amount of material thickness below the surface those TNuts are on, you ought to countersink them with a 3/4ā€ wood paddle bit.

Just donā€™t epoxy onto the screw threads, for obvious reasons, lol
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, the huben stocks are actually a very hard plastic, I am going to epoxy them for sure! but there isnt enough material to countersink them unfortunately.
 
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Bigragu said:
Red loctite is better than nothing, but these synthetic stocks today arenā€™t very ā€œstructuralā€ like a good walnut stock. I fear one of these days, especially if you lean into a bipod a lot, those nuts will dig in at an angle? I could be wrong.
Epoxy makes the nuts just a part of the stock. It cracks me up how some vendors offer a pic rail install for a few, and just use screws straight into the synthetic stock. Itā€™ll fail at the most opportune time, like if you use these pic tails as a QD for a sling(like the type of rail you and I have, in my pic below)
View attachment 343485View attachment 343486
If you still have a good amount of material thickness below the surface those TNuts are on, you ought to countersink them with a 3/4ā€ wood paddle bit.

Just donā€™t epoxy onto the screw threads, for obvious reasons, lol
Click to expand...
What kind of epoxy do you suggest? do you still think it will be as effective without the countersink?
 
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CTairgunner1288 said:
What kind of epoxy do you suggest? do you still think it will be as effective without the countersink?
Click to expand...
Just leave it, as your install was good, anyway. But do keep an eye on it, especially if your one to lay into a bipod with forward force.

As far as epoxies go, I have two favorites- JBweld and if something Iā€™m working on is prone to repetitive flex snd vibration I use MR STICKY:
A5FB4F4B-B3C1-48BB-BFA6-956B230C4CBD.jpeg

As with all two part epoxyā€™s, prep of area being applied on is key for a successful bond
 
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Bigragu said:
Just leave it, as your install was good, anyway. But do keep an eye on it, especially if your one to lay into a bipod with forward force.

As far as epoxies go, I have two favorites- JBweld and if something Iā€™m working on is prone to repetitive flex snd vibration I use MR STICKY:
View attachment 343693
As with all two part epoxyā€™s, prep of area being applied on is key for a successful bond
Click to expand...
Gunna have to order some of that, read the directions and put it on those tnuts i installed!
 
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Bigragu said:
Just leave it, as your install was good, anyway. But do keep an eye on it, especially if your one to lay into a bipod with forward force.

As far as epoxies go, I have two favorites- JBweld and if something Iā€™m working on is prone to repetitive flex snd vibration I use MR STICKY:
View attachment 343693
As with all two part epoxyā€™s, prep of area being applied on is key for a successful bond
Click to expand...

Your name wouldn't happen to be Phil Swift would it? šŸ«£šŸ«£
 
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DesertSilver said:
Flex tape, flex seal infamy. Fast talking commercial sales man.

Flex seal
Click to expand...
Just offering advice based on my own personal experiences, not trying to appear like some ā€œfast talking salesmanā€ as youā€™re implying, or get people to do anything not worth doing.

I was brought up to do it once and do it right, to the best of your abilities and resources.
 
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