I think I may have put too much oil in. The oil was added at the foam wiper. The gun became a little erratic. It fires and may be improving. What does over oiling do? And how is it fixed? It was oiled with silicon oil, and It was a gun I resealed in the more recent past.
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Daisy Too much oil in an ssp airgun Daisy 717
- Thread starter Schwinnsta
- Start date
it will work through the gun in time
the wiper would need 1-2-3 drops of oil and not any more than that and if you can touch the wiper and get oil on your finger it is fine
the wiper would need 1-2-3 drops of oil and not any more than that and if you can touch the wiper and get oil on your finger it is fine
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I probably rebuilt about 8 over the last year and a half, for myself, son and grandson. I di"ld replace the foam wiper with some teflon rings. I found the rebuild/seal kits on ebay. Theory is that a a stack of the teflon rings will hold and disperse oil, and they seem to be working and willl not break down like foam. A for oil, it's not going to hurt, Too much will drip out, maybe make a little mess. THe gun creates pressure and not enough rather slowly so no chance of dieseling. I do not know about the PCP type guns, but the spring air type guns can diesel or burn or explode excess oil and cause damage to piston seals and that is because they create high pressure very fast which creates a lot of heat rapidly, exactly like a diesel engine, hence the term dieseling.
In your case it is rather unlikely that enough oil will get past the piston seal to cause problems. That seal will wipe back and pick up a very little bit of oil left by the foam wiper. I would shoot it a bit and see how "erratic" it is and if it does not get better. Test over a chronograph and see if it gives consistant velocity.
In your case it is rather unlikely that enough oil will get past the piston seal to cause problems. That seal will wipe back and pick up a very little bit of oil left by the foam wiper. I would shoot it a bit and see how "erratic" it is and if it does not get better. Test over a chronograph and see if it gives consistant velocity.
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I will keep shooting for now, but here is what I noticed. My first 2 or 3 were low, about an inch in 20 feet. When I reloaded, it was harder to open the cocking arm, then air pressure still in pushes the lever open. When it shoots right, and it mostly does, it shoots accurate, and it cocks like normal. So in some shots, the valve(?) is not fully releasing. I will continue on shooting and see. I may chrony it. Any theories?
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just dry fire the pistol a couple of times
so, if it is hard to open the handle and the bolt is cocked, that closes the system, so you are creating a vacuum till you open the handle all the way and the cylinder take in air
and a SSP can't diesel
so, if it is hard to open the handle and the bolt is cocked, that closes the system, so you are creating a vacuum till you open the handle all the way and the cylinder take in air
and a SSP can't diesel
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Still, I would like to know why this happens. What is the mechanism that causes some of the air to be blocked? Why would over oiling cause this?
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I would stop using silicon oil. Try Mac 1 Secret Sauce. If you can’t find that then use crosman Pellgun oil.
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shooting my 717 yesterday and i still do not like the feel or rather the lack of feeling when i set the bolt back , like it does nothing and a sloppy fit . But the pistol works great , just me i guess . Just wish it had a more positive feel is all .
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the bolt on the 717-747 are a low point for the gun but if you have enough Daisy products you will see they have the same thing
the bolt on the 777 is meal and i do not own one and maybe that has a better feel
the bolt does 2 things one cock the pistol and as it does that closes the valve it is as stated a piece of crap but if you put a little white grease on it, it helps
the too much oil thing is an unknown to me
when i rebuild one of these i oil the crap out of the tube and never had a problem and as i stated it will works it's way through the gun in time
the bolt on the 777 is meal and i do not own one and maybe that has a better feel
the bolt does 2 things one cock the pistol and as it does that closes the valve it is as stated a piece of crap but if you put a little white grease on it, it helps
the too much oil thing is an unknown to me
when i rebuild one of these i oil the crap out of the tube and never had a problem and as i stated it will works it's way through the gun in time
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wonder if a 777bolt would work in a 717 but then finding a 777 is hard enough i guess , maybe at the shows this year.
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True, mine is a 747 and the bolt has no preasure on it. It doesn't feel like your cocking anything, just opening it to insert a pellet.
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I have 3 of the 777's and the bolt is plastic. I agree oil the heck out of it, I used superlube synthetic oil in mine, not silicone oil as there is no danger of diesling. Any excess will be spewed out in a few shots.
The major difference in a 777 and 747/717 is the grips, the rear sight which is all metal, and the piston lever which is milled steel vs stamped, and a Lothar Walther barrel.
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I'm not sure what you experienced, but a few points.
Oil doesn't compress and shouldn't bei the compression chamber.
The silicone oil is the preffered oil for high compression seals, and very slick. I would think it would be a good oil for that application.
Other oils are sticky with regard to collecting dirt and dust, and wind up getting debris in the valves causing leaks. I've repaired a few old pumpers by running degreasing cleaner through the valves. That is why Sheridan marked the air hole with "No Oil Here".
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I have a 747 and would love to find a 777. The sight improvement, and finish quality would kick it up a couple notches, not to mention the grips.
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