To tru oil or not?

[NickNorthGA]

So I have a purple and pepper laminate stock I am close to finishing. I got some tru oil but really have no experience with it. After more reading I have heard some mixed opinions about using it on laminate, especially unnaturally colored laminate. Anyone have any experience? Will it muddy or tint my color? I really want a deep rich purple. Would I be better with a wipe on poly? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Guest]

It will make it yellowish. Skip it and do a type of wax. Truoil is a type of polymizer based on linseed oil.

 

[NickNorthGA]

Would minwax clear poly be a good choice or actual paste wax? I am not very experienced in finishing stuff. The guitar in my photo I did years ago and used an epoxy on it that I can't even really remember what it was lol.

 

[Ripper]

 I myself like polyurethane but I have used it on natural wood colors. It will start to yellow a little bit over time. What I like about it it is very durable. Don’t know if I would want to do it on a purple stock though. 

 

[Odoyle]

https://www.accurateshooter.com/stocks/how-to-clear-coat-laminated-stocks/

 

[B]

Tru oil will make the stock darker more yellowish , if you like the color of your laminate and you like to keep it that way use some kind of water based clear coat. 
I think I got pictures with both finishes on gray laminate somewhere if you interested to see it let me know and I will dig them out. 


B

 

[NickNorthGA]

https://www.accurateshooter.com/stocks/how-to-clear-coat-laminated-stocks/

I really don't have the funds to buy a spray setup at the moment. I don't even have a compressor

 

[bosworth]

For the clearest finish uncolored finish, I have used a few coats of shellac followed by lots of coats of semi gloss lacquer. Both are available in spray cans if you don't have a spray rig. It doesn't produce the plastic look you sometimes get with poly.

 

[CharlieNC]

Over the years I have tried everything mentioned above. About a month ago enter Arrow Wood Finish. Apply lightly and sand in with fine grit for rapid filling, and a satin finish. Rub in with the hand for a gloss finish. It dries rapidly to achieve sealing, and allows it to be applied over other finishes. I have a fairly new Beretta which I applied many, many additional costs of linseed oil. But it never filled the grain to suit me. Two coats of Arrow on top and now the sealed, satin look I was after. It's what you always wanted linseed oil to be!

 

[NickNorthGA]

For the clearest finish uncolored finish, I have used a few coats of shellac followed by lots of coats of semi gloss lacquer. Both are available in spray cans if you don't have a spray rig. It doesn't produce the plastic look you sometimes get with poly.

Thanks. I don't have the rig and am just worried about ruining the dye and adhesive in the laminate. I will probably go this route...

 

[bosworth]

Shellac will seal the wood and most all finishes will bond to it. It will not affect the dye or the adhesive. Both the shellac and laquer have very volatile solvents and dry very quickly in room temperatures allowing multiple coats a day.

 

[NickNorthGA]

Shellac will seal the wood and most all finishes will bond to it. It will not affect the dye or the adhesive. Both the shellac and laquer have very volatile solvents and dry very quickly in room temperatures allowing multiple coats a day.

Thanks! My stock is far from perfect being my first attempt ever so this is a good inexpensive solution with spray cans. I'm pretty proficient with cans and sanding lol. 

 

[Uglyjohn]

I’ve done a couple of laminate stocks with Min Wax wipe on satin polyurethane and I like it. The biggest problem is making sure the old finish is completely removed and all the dents and scratches are steamed or sanded (400 to 600 grit) out. Sometimes there will be a very fine gap between the plies that can only be seen by holding it at various angles to your light source after the first coat of poly dries. If so, a bit more light sanding with 600 grit is required. Five or six LIGHT coats allowing a days drying time between coats, buff with 4-O steel wool to kill the gloss between coats, final coat, hang in a dust free space and done. Uj

 

[NickNorthGA]

i ended up sealing with shellac. Going to finish with lacquer

 

[BeeGee11]

That looks great! I have all of the tools, etc, do you have a suggestion on resources on learning how to make stocks?

 

[BeeGee11]

Going to need some more pictures of that, btw 

 

[NickNorthGA]

This is the first one I've ever done. All i know is rasp and chisels were my best friends. I feel like i could do it better and faster second round. Thinking about trying to do a bullpup with the avenger

 

[NickNorthGA]