Nation,
I had a leak in my TM 1000, would not hold air, air went down the barrel. This indicated a bad valve. I have several spare valves, and have replaced them in the past, but I don't remember how.....it was that long ago, as I have one of the earlier models at #92. I was able to remove the air tube, the regulator, the blank plug that goes over the bronze air filter, spring and valve (which was bent) and the valve body. Cleaned everything, new valve o rings all around.
I go to put the valve in, and it won't go in far enough for the outside grub screw to engage with the detention in the valve body for the grub screw. The bolt will not cock all the way back, like something else has to be set, or released in order to get the hammer back, so the valve fits back in.
As I said, I've done this once before, but I don't remember the trick/process involved. I was hoping to get it back together to test tomorrow, but if that don't happen, it's no biggie, I'll have to wait.
Thanks in advance,
Tom Holland
I had a leak in my TM 1000, would not hold air, air went down the barrel. This indicated a bad valve. I have several spare valves, and have replaced them in the past, but I don't remember how.....it was that long ago, as I have one of the earlier models at #92. I was able to remove the air tube, the regulator, the blank plug that goes over the bronze air filter, spring and valve (which was bent) and the valve body. Cleaned everything, new valve o rings all around.
I go to put the valve in, and it won't go in far enough for the outside grub screw to engage with the detention in the valve body for the grub screw. The bolt will not cock all the way back, like something else has to be set, or released in order to get the hammer back, so the valve fits back in.
As I said, I've done this once before, but I don't remember the trick/process involved. I was hoping to get it back together to test tomorrow, but if that don't happen, it's no biggie, I'll have to wait.
Thanks in advance,
Tom Holland