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Tips for shooting a bullpup off a bipod/rest?

I am a ~young shooter and recently got my first PCP airgun (Taipan Vet Long .22). My current goal is to tune the gun for max precision but the more I shoot the more I notice that the most minute differences in the way I hold the gun, configure my head, allow the gun to recoil, etc. affect the POI significantly at 50 yards (3/4"-1"). This concept is not new to me, as I own and shoot various powder burners as well and am aware of the importance of consistent trigger squeeze/follow thru and rifle harmonics. However I have not noticed this level of hold sensitivity in my PB rifles. My thought is maybe some of this is due to the fact that the Taipan is a bullpup which may require techniques closer to shooting handguns which I have limited experience with.

Anyway, in an effort to reduce my influence as the shooter to more accurately observe what the rifle is capable of, I am hoping some of you could share tips for how you shoot bullpup PCPs off a rest. Note that I am shooting prone off a bipod and rear bag.

TLDR; Here are my questions:

  • How hold sensitive are bullpup PCPs off a rest? 
  • Is it better to let the gun recoil naturally (like a springer) or do you apply downward/forward pressure to the gun when shooting?
  • What are some tips that can help a noob like me when shooting bullpups, or PCPs in general off of a bipod/rest to maximize precision?




 
I think the critical thing is being consistent and being very careful with follow through. I’ve never been able to shot prone or off a bipod .
I use a shooting table a front rest/rear bag and stool.
You are going to just have to experiment as to what works for you.
At least you have recognized a significant factor in shooting these rifles. Bull pups are harder to shoot then a standard rifle. I own an impact and I like it but it will be the last bull pup for me.
Do not forget parallax. That can work against you too especially if you are varying your position behind the gun.
 
One thing I have just started noticing is that I would position my scope very differently for shooting prone versus standing and even sitting at a bench. The prone position seems to put your head more forward and closer to the scope - so you have to back your head up which is not a natural or easily repeatable position. It may benefit you to move your scope forward 2" if possible. 

The other thing I've come to notice is I find it somewhat awkward to shoot a bullpup with a bipod. Much more comfortable and natural, for me, to use a front bag.

No question you have the right tool for the job with the Vet (nice choice.)

One other thing I would consider, with you coming from the PB world, is your hold. PCP rifles are pretty much recoilless so no need to do more than support the gun in a steady manner. Very light grip with you trigger hand and PCPs have a longer lock time than your PBs so smooth trigger finger with good follow through. 
 
I pretty much Exclusively shoot bullpups, and every one that I have gets a kickstand.. 
Bipods definitely work like a charm on them. When inside, I use my 10 meter range.. 
Me personally - I like to get the rifle 'level' with the target, so, that said, 
I'll position the bipod where it needs to be for the stock to be 'shouldered'. 
This also requires finding the right seat to get the right height at the table.. 
Once that's outa' the way, the pups pretty much slid back as far as they can go.. 
Their stock is basically at the end of the table..

There's also bag riding.. you can use a shooting-bag for the stock, 
and then slide the whole setup forward, but, I'm not really a fan of that.. 
To me, it's a bad-habit, when people could be practicing holding/shouldering.. 

1592848706_12666837085ef0f142194ee2.33243205.jpg

^^^ A few of my pups with bipods:

1592848742_8958215075ef0f166e08705.85196326.jpg

1592849532_13645012275ef0f47c0ff8e0.23580792.jpg

^^^ My simplistic indoor setup:
*Lightweight folding-table @ 6'Lx2.5W', 2.5' tall
*Collapsing stool @ 1' tall


Hey, Great choice of pup - going with a Vet. They're amazing little rifles, 
and their triggers are like 2nd to none. You should really enjoy it. I loved mine!

🙂👍

Sam -
 
What I do described in “Slow motion


Firm / medium grip

Firm / medium shoulder

Light / gentle cheek

Calm breath

Take up the first stage

Aim

Stay still

Straight back second stage trigger pressure (maintaining a consistent hold, trigger finger is the only thing that moves)

Follow through (remain on the gun until projectile makes impact)

Done!



Real time” version:

decent grip

aim

smooth trigger pull

follow through

done.









 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I agree that shooting prone has its difficulties. Especially because I’m 6’3 and the length of pull on the Taipan is too short for me as it is. When i lay prone there is no way for me to get the gun in my shoulder so I just have it floating on the rear rest. 


One thing that I’ve noticed though is that my groups seem to improve slightly when i apply a down+forward pressure on the grip/bottom part of the stock loop. Keeps the reticle on target through the shot. I notice that every once in a while the gun will recoil up abruptly after the shot and usually that’s the “flyer”. 
 
I just recently purchased the Zabroia Kozak FC bullpup. My first bullpup. What I have noticed. 
At home I shoot off a bench with a sand bag under the forearm right in front of the trigger guard. I shoot at about 33 yards. With an 18 power scope I see lots of movement. So I try to hold and steady the gun very lightly. 
I also use a bubble level to reduce cant. 
ThatS shooting at home off a bench. I just recently went out into a real world hunting situation. And everything I’ve learned at home is of little use. I need to more practice shooting off hand. And I need to create a DOPE card. And lots more I’m sure. Good time. Lots to learn. But it’s fun, challenging and rewarding in the end. 

 
I forgot to mention, the Vet that I had was a .25 cal Vet MINI!
Those things are soooo tiny! 🤣 

Length of pull - Especially for prone / walk-n-stalk shooting..
Yeah, it's pretty short, that's for sure. I'm just shy of 6', 
and while my knuckles don't drag on the ground, I still have pretty long arms.. lol 
That makes things interesting for sure.

Nice advise guys!

JoeKool, you nailed it! Great slow-mo vs. real-time speed comparison! I totally agree.

Mink, what you described in the prone position sounded all too familiar. 
For me - [I probably have a strange head - not like Rocky Dennis or Sloth, but close?! lol]
No matter what, I need to use either super low rings or, add cheek riser height.. 
[I think I have high cheekbones] So, as if that's not a big enough pain when just shooting 
by shouldering or shooting at the bench - Prone is pretty much impossible..

I 'solved' that by scooching the pup a bit farther forward - away from my shoulder, 
so that I could get much head/cheek down lower - and get a good/level sight-picture.. 
Since I can't shoulder like that, I use my free-hand or fist under the buttpad to hold steady.. 
That definitely doesn't make for The Most Precise / Consistent shots, but, in a pinch 
and for a shot or 2 [pesting] it definitely helped and worked.

🙂👍

Sam -
 
I shoot my guns, bullpup or normal, with little shoulder pressure to the buttpad. No down pressure or so on, but my triggerhand touches the grip really slightly and my thumb doesn’t go behind the grip, he rest on the side.

but it’s little different in prone in my opinion, if u lay really low or a little higher. Read all that in a marksman book.



hope it was a little help.

Regards

Patrick
 
My prone shooting is traditional position shooting, in a sling, so I can't be of much help. What I can say for sure, you will suffer fatigue much more quickly than from a bench, and then accuracy suffers. 

Use the biggest, widest bipod you can, and be consistent. I think you will find that some amount of shoulder pressure is best. Shooting prone, I think it would be very hard to be as consistent if you try to shoot without some controlling pressure.
 
I do own a taipan in .177. The trigger is great, but on mine it was not setup that good from factory. It had a long sear engagements (some say they are setup that way from factory) on the second stage, which made it hard to predict the shot. After I adjusted it (which is easy to do, once you know how), it is easier to shoot more more accurate on the bench. 
 
I think you will find that some amount of shoulder pressure is best. Shooting prone, I think it would be very hard to be as consistent if you try to shoot without some controlling pressure.



elh0102,

would you explain that a little more for me — this has been a great thread — and in my ignorance I'm wondering why the shoulder is necessary at all... — why not just rest the gun on the front bag and the rear bag, done?

Thanks for your help understanding this! 😊

Matthias


 
I think you will find that some amount of shoulder pressure is best. Shooting prone, I think it would be very hard to be as consistent if you try to shoot without some controlling pressure.



elh0102,

would you explain that a little more for me — this has been a great thread — and in my ignorance I'm wondering why the shoulder is necessary at all... — why not just rest the gun on the front bag and the rear bag, done?

Thanks for your help understanding this!
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Matthias


I was not contemplating using bags, which is not traditional in prone shooting, nor allowed in most position matches. But yes, I see no reason you could not shoot well by using the bags as you describe. As in any style of shooting, consistency is very important. Shooting prone without external support, or, using only a bipod, the rifle obviously needs to be supported by the shooter in some manner. My point was, I believe most shooters can do this most consistently by using a modest amount of shoulder contact, not enough to cause early muscle fatigue, but enough offer consistent resistance as the shot is released. But, if you can get a front/rear bag combination that works for you, then it would be essentially like shooting from a bench, and some BR shooters do that with little-to-no holding pressure.