Time elapsing among pulling the trigger and pellet flying

[MikeVV]

As a (retired) Sr. Mechanical Test Engineer, I spent the last 20 or so years testing Aerospace (mostly space based, but some aircraft) parts and assemblies to prove or disprove the original Design Engineers thoughts on the design on any given item, from the very simple to the highly complex.

I keep reading all this "partial" information on the barrel harmonics, and now one (above) mentions on ALL of the various vibrations and harmonics that airguns go through during the fire sequence.

Has ANYONE...ACTUALLY tested any of this with real test equipment (transducers, modal shock analysers, vibration table analysers, and the like) ? Or is this information just so much anecdotal "data" that's been thought up by someone with a little knowledge and passed around for years and years as gospel ?

I would agree that some amount of very, VERY small vibration takes place during the fire sequence as it does on ANY mechanical moving parts. BUT...is it enough in an airgun that can actually be measured OR even transferred to act on other parts to have these other parts react in a negative form or function, and be enough to actually negatively on pellet travel down the barrel, or the stability of the shooters stabilizing the weapon ?

Just like the difference in a dry vs an oiled sear (or ANY multiple part movement). The disengagement friction will cause different vibrations within the related parts. BUT...I can guarantee you that it would take many thousands of dollars, and many hours of design time (LOTSA money !), many (LOTSA money!) hours of test equipment design time, and many hours (LOTSA money!) of test equipment setup time, to "prove" or "disprove" all of this hype.

Myths and wives tales me thinks. It would be interesting to see someone prove any...of this "data". Pictures and detailed recorded data to follow.



Mike

 

[Springrrrr]

Personally I don't care for the trigger in my RedWolf. It's vague and not adjustable for a crisp release. Basically you can't adjust out the travel of the "button" that is effectively the trigger.

I did not find that to be the case what so ever. I did spend time with the many adjustments the trigger has to offer and can not tell you what I did to make it a single stage, zero take up, zero creep trigger that breaks in the low ounce range. You have to spend time with it and get on a screw that the manual tells you to leave alone, but it can be done.

 

[thumper]

Personally I don't care for the trigger in my RedWolf. It's vague and not adjustable for a crisp release. Basically you can't adjust out the travel of the "button" that is effectively the trigger.

I did not find that to be the case what so ever. I did spend time with the many adjustments the trigger has to offer and can not tell you what I did to make it a single stage, zero take up, zero creep trigger that breaks in the low ounce range. You have to spend time with it and get on a screw that the manual tells you to leave alone, but it can be done.

Thats where mine is set now, but there is still creep that can't be removed, it's built into the button. Setting it crazy light can mask this, but then the trigger is useless in the woods, which I will be using the gun for. 

Having a trigger that goes into the low ounces of pull weight does not make automatically make a good trigger. But if it works for you, then hey that's great and enjoy it. 

And as for the two stage, forget it. It's a lost cause. You can make it a two stage, but the wall is vague and again, has to be set unusable light. 

I have spent hours adjusting it, every screw on it, and even disassembled to see if the button could be repositioned for less leverage applied by the trigger with no luck. It just is what it is. 

 

[bandg]

I agree with Springrrrr on this. My Pulsar trigger is extremely light AND crisp with a distinct second stage and absolutely NO creep before "break". But if one can't adjust the Daystate electronic trigger to work for them, then hey that's too bad and getting rid of it would seem to be in order. I'm perfectly happy with mine.

 

[Emu]

I agree with Springrrrr on this. My Pulsar trigger is extremely light AND crisp with a distinct second stage and absolutely NO creep before "break". But if one can't adjust the Daystate electronic trigger to work for them, then hey that's too bad and getting rid of it would seem to be in order. I'm perfectly happy with mine.

I was able to adjust the trigger of my Renegade HP .30 Cal and leave it exactly as I wanted. Just moving counter clockwise (to make it lighter) the first screw ahead of the trigger.

No way that a person with a working hand could have difficult to do it.

The only difference is that you may not keep the side lever and shoot when doing the adjustment. Then, you adjust, go and shoot and come back to adjust again untill you get with your trigger to where you want.

 

[JRisBundyboyz]

The trigger isn’t the biggest issue of lock time, and movement vibration it’s the hammer. 


But first I want to say I still dream of my time with daystate electronic trigger it’s impressive no doubt. 


Im surprised nobody has mentioned the hammerless huben. 


an electronic trigger with a solenoid valve fastest most precise. 


- I’ve been on teams for army research lab where all kinds of transducers were put on firearms, there is a difference. That’s why we switched to just using barrels on a firing block for tests. (Precision example) we put an x on a helicopter blade tied down helicopter and ran at full speed and hit the x on the blade with a bullet.