I think it was somewhere on this forum that I saw a thread titled something like "pulling trigger better than squeezing". I never read it, but can't locate it now. Can anyone direct me to it?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Thread about pulling vs squeezing trigger?
- Thread starter Flintlock
- Start date
@Flintlock Is this the thread you had in mind?
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Trigger manipulation techniques?
I discovered something by accident today that seems to improve my accuracy. I normally align my crosshairs to the intended POI and remove the first stage take up, up to the wall and then SLOWLY pull through the wall until the trigger breaks. Sometimes it seems like forever before the last few...
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Lets start with the grip, what style you have?
I have a vertical grip, both the Emperor and the Penguin. The "length" diference is about 1/2" and it has a shelf for the pinky finger.
Going forward from here, you can grip it with your thumb from opposite side or from same side as the palm.
If your thumb finger is at same side as the palm is, there is an upper shelf where you can rest the thumb finger.
The trigger finger goes around the trigger to the first joint (I had never success with finger tip only).
And just pinch the two fingers together, the thumb is resting so only the trigger can move.
This is my BR setup, also my trigger mechanism is mirror polished I can feel the internal springs rubbing in the pocket.
I have a vertical grip, both the Emperor and the Penguin. The "length" diference is about 1/2" and it has a shelf for the pinky finger.
Going forward from here, you can grip it with your thumb from opposite side or from same side as the palm.
If your thumb finger is at same side as the palm is, there is an upper shelf where you can rest the thumb finger.
The trigger finger goes around the trigger to the first joint (I had never success with finger tip only).
And just pinch the two fingers together, the thumb is resting so only the trigger can move.
This is my BR setup, also my trigger mechanism is mirror polished I can feel the internal springs rubbing in the pocket.
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Ezana, thanks but I remember it being a more recently-replied-to thread....
I appreciate it though.
I appreciate it though.
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Depends on the gun and purpose. I squeeze thumb and forefinger on BR guns but 4-7lb triggers on semiautos in rapid fire are pulled quickly but smoothly.
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If you have to pull a trigger=something is wrong with your grip or the trigger is too far or your technique is not right.
To me, it is that simple,for some people with small hands,short finger or a rifle with too large a grip they may have to pull.
You should be able to squeeze your trigger,do what you have to do to be able to do so.Pull a trigger involves more movement of body parts.
Think about it.....plus think about why an electronic trigger is so much better..
OK I can see where a heavy trigger pull may require pulling,and then there is jerking,yea like when you forget to let off the safety and you find yourself jerking, oh my , and you find yourself like damm ,I thought I was squeezing and you were actually jerking,LOL.
To me, it is that simple,for some people with small hands,short finger or a rifle with too large a grip they may have to pull.
You should be able to squeeze your trigger,do what you have to do to be able to do so.Pull a trigger involves more movement of body parts.
Think about it.....plus think about why an electronic trigger is so much better..
OK I can see where a heavy trigger pull may require pulling,and then there is jerking,yea like when you forget to let off the safety and you find yourself jerking, oh my , and you find yourself like damm ,I thought I was squeezing and you were actually jerking,LOL.
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Never pull the trigger inadvertently it'll cause you to jerk the gun one way or the other. Always steady squeeze the actual shot should be a surprise every time. It's not taking ten shots in a row it's about taking one shot ten times. (school trained shooter here)
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I would refer to it as a squeeze as in a slow smooth squeeze between the web between my thumb and the palm on the back of the grip , and the trigger finger
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Then of you gotta back it up with a un flinching follow through..The trigger pull must be subconscious. One shot at a time !! You need to train for that
It all just come down to the 3 P's
Practice
Patience
&
Pellets. ( Well 4 P's if i put it as plenty of pellets
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I think this subject is a broad one and each trigger must be approached differently depending on the sport, the size of the target, if or how much time is allotted, and how heavy the trigger is.
I'm still learning a newer gun after shooting another in FT for 17 years. Keeping it short here I needed to use the trigger differently on the newer one.
An example I'm thinking of right now is what to do when shooting offhand. Unless the target is huge it is not beneficial to squeeze the trigger because of the wobble zone which is 2-3-4 times the size of the target. This being the case timing is everything so the trigger must be touched at the right time quickly and with zero hesitation because a 1/4 second later you'll likely be out of the intended target area.
I'm still learning a newer gun after shooting another in FT for 17 years. Keeping it short here I needed to use the trigger differently on the newer one.
An example I'm thinking of right now is what to do when shooting offhand. Unless the target is huge it is not beneficial to squeeze the trigger because of the wobble zone which is 2-3-4 times the size of the target. This being the case timing is everything so the trigger must be touched at the right time quickly and with zero hesitation because a 1/4 second later you'll likely be out of the intended target area.
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I prefer a 2 stage trigger for offhand because of that very scenario.
Staged on the sear, sight picture, approach, trip the sear.
Easier said than done though........
Staged on the sear, sight picture, approach, trip the sear.
Easier said than done though........
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Jeff Cooper's philosophy... Old and dated but was one of my gurus when I got into shooting. Regards
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^ That. I was lucky enough to train with some of Jeff Cooper's students. It made a HUGE difference.
I know that we're all born with the ability to shoot (and ride motorcycles) well. But taking a class isn't a bad thing. Objective input on how you're doing it is often to the shooter's (or rider's) benefit.
I've taken rifle, pistol, and shotgun classes and walked away from all of them with something that I didn't have when I started. You might want to check one out.
Cheers,
J~
I know that we're all born with the ability to shoot (and ride motorcycles) well. But taking a class isn't a bad thing. Objective input on how you're doing it is often to the shooter's (or rider's) benefit.
I've taken rifle, pistol, and shotgun classes and walked away from all of them with something that I didn't have when I started. You might want to check one out.
Cheers,
J~
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Light breaking triggers I tend to squeeze and heavier triggers I pull steadily through. I do both consciously on purpose without flinching.
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Hahaha trained for years tested, got tested on the battle fieldThe trigger pull must be subconscious. One shot at a time !! You need to train for that
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The best thing you can do in slow shooting especially target and zeroing is to find your natural point of aim and never muscle your gun. Meaning you find your shooting spot (I do mine in the prone cause I’m a better shooter there or in the sitting) I find my target get my sight alignment sight picture. I get my breathing under control, then I close my eyes. I take a natural breath. And open my eyes if I’m aiming low and to the right I shift my body until I’m on target. I don’t pull the gun to my target. I shift my arms (usually is the elevation) and with traversing I shift my hips and legs. Then repeat. If I open my eyes and the sights fall center of my target I have the natural point of aim. Then I find my natural rhythm of breathe, take a slight hold once the air is released from my lungs (so im
Not laying on a balloon.) and slowly squeeze the trigger.
I also zero in groups, 3 shots then I mark it, fire 3 to confirm, then move sights. Fire 3 shots adjust if necessary. If you’re used to shooting MOA, each group should be MOA or you’re doing one of your fundlementals wrong or issue with the gun. Achieve MOA (or what your gun can perform) and keep adjusting until your center. 5 shot group for final grouping. (Make sure it wasn’t an accident lol)
Not laying on a balloon.) and slowly squeeze the trigger.
I also zero in groups, 3 shots then I mark it, fire 3 to confirm, then move sights. Fire 3 shots adjust if necessary. If you’re used to shooting MOA, each group should be MOA or you’re doing one of your fundlementals wrong or issue with the gun. Achieve MOA (or what your gun can perform) and keep adjusting until your center. 5 shot group for final grouping. (Make sure it wasn’t an accident lol)
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100000% amazing video. Jumping the round I think is a term is common when you anticipate your shot. Now I’ve trained in both combat shooting. In combat shooting accuracy by volume in close quarters. Watch your shots then move. Like he said combat shooting your doing the fundlements but instead of zoning in to get that rear and front a lot of times it’s faster to use move your front sight shoot (point of aim point of impact) now if you’re a designated marksmen or a sniper it’s a little bit of a different story because your shots are more precise and slower (sometimes lol) but in FT shooting you should always be going slow. Slow is smooth smooth is fast if that makes sense. I can do 10 shots in less than 10 seconds and hit center mass on a 26 by 18 inch target at 300 yards (in the sitting) not bench but actually Indian style sitting.. I can hit less than a 10 inch 10 shot group at 500 yards with a 2 MOA rifle.
This guy is on point.
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