The Poultry Snatcher got a Zeus .72 :-)

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Chickenthief

Chickenthief

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Aug 16, 2019
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Intoxicated, Denmark
But you dont have to call me Sir from now on.
Smeghead is OK ;-)
Let's see how many catchs that one.

I pounded a round ball through mine this afternoon and with my old eyes and a manual micrometer i get @ .733"
Anything smaller and you are assured blow by and reduced power.

I put a lead ball well lubed down the bore and pulled a boresnake through.
Look at the crud these Auto Tranny Lube (Cant say Alphabet org "A7F") lubed pads got out!
Did they cover the innards with years old axle grease???
The first patches in sequence.
DSCN0119 s.jpg

DSCN0120 s.jpg

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DSCN0123 s.jpg


My bolt is so sloppy thet is cants and wont go into battery by itself, it needs a nudge.
Anyone else encountered this?
DSCN0117 s.jpg

DSCN0118 s.jpg


Now i need a scope and go shooting :)
 
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You know the old saying: If you misplace something, the easiest way to find it is to buy a replacement.
Just ordered a new digital micrometer less than a half hour ago and here it popped up right in front of me :-(
Stupid scatterbrain!

As i get older i only suffer from two illnesses:
CRS and CSS
Cant Remember S4!/
Cant See S4!/
And my memory aint to good either.


And i just learned another thing. Now that i have my digital micrometer. Barrel slugs a smidgen over .733"
The bore in the breach only mics .73185" on mine.
So only underbore bullets for ever, dont like that :-(
Sloppy craftmanship.

PS: S4!7 = S ee H ow I T roll
 
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Do you plan to shoot balls or pellets? If pellets, do they have a hollow base, and wouldn’t the resultant obturation fill the bore sufficiently?

Also, could you load from the muzzle end and use a patch?

Of course, I’m entirely unfamiliar with the types of projectiles used in such a large caliber airgun, so I may be completely off the mark.

And I would agree that the bolt should not have to be nudged while going into battery.
 
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@Chickenthief It sounds like you know your way around a few machinist tools, so... Maybe disassemble the whole rifle and sand/polish off about .002" from the i.d. of that breech. And while the barrel is off, get a look at the lead going into the rifling. Check for burrs there and a decent taper. You may need to make a new taper there as well. Several people have used a tapered pin reamer (pin reamer #11) that once ground to size ( in your case .734" on the big end), is well suited for the hand reaming job. Both sanding and polishing the breech to the correct size and re-cutting the lead taper will likely solve the issue with forcing the bolt shut to chamber the slug.

www.ebay.com

.5700-.7630" O.D. HSS TAPER PIN REAMER SPIRAL 6 FLUTE .5700-.7630 4 1/8 LOC | eBay

AT SMALL END WITH. 7630" AT LARGER END. M & J TOOLING LLC. YOU ARE PURCHASING THE PICTURED.5700-.7630". POSSIBLE SHANK MODIFICATION-SEE PICTURES.
www.ebay.com
 
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The chamber is absolutely horrible!!!
The rifling is'nt even cut out just cut down. And so many burrs i'm horrified :-(
DSCN0132 s.jpg


My rifle is number 421 of gen 2. Can their reamer be so worn allready?
Do they cut chambers in under a second?

Heres some goodies i found in the 12 gauge junk box.
All will chamber :)
DSCN0125 s.jpg


A little more on the top one:
Its all steel with a big wedge in the front to aid expansion.
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And the final one:
A wad bought in the good old US of A.
It will hold a .510" cast bullet good and tight.
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I will think about the chamber and non existing leade over the weekend. But my minimal OCD says something has to be done, cant live with that crap 🤬
 
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phillip said:
Do you plan to shoot balls or pellets? If pellets, do they have a hollow base, and wouldn’t the resultant obturation fill the bore sufficiently?

Also, could you load from the muzzle end and use a patch?

Of course, I’m entirely unfamiliar with the types of projectiles used in such a large caliber airgun, so I may be completely off the mark.

And I would agree that the bolt should not have to be nudged while going into battery.
Click to expand...

Well the round ball and the modified Lyman "pellet" was allready in the inventory for my rifled 12 gauge.
So kinda "freebies" in this adventure.
The "Pellet" is a MP mould that features a 655grain full bore "pellet" compared to Lymans original design only running 475grains.
This makes the "pellet" not so susceptible to deformation during acceleration.
www.mp-molds.com

MP 12Ga 525 - Full bore slug mold

Best moulds for casting lead bullets. Hollow point, hollow base or solid bullets. Molds are Brass or aluminum.
www.mp-molds.com www.mp-molds.com

When time comes i will order a two cavity mould from Tom at Accuratemolds.com. In a multi cavity i can have two diffenrent designs for only @20 extra. Great for testing and i wont fling several hundred at each outing so casting will be ok if only from a single cavity.
 
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Chickenthief said:
But you dont have to call me Sir from now on.
Smeghead is OK ;-)
Let's see how many catchs that one.

I pounded a round ball through mine this afternoon and with my old eyes and a manual micrometer i get @ .733"
Anything smaller and you are assured blow by and reduced power.

I put a lead ball well lubed down the bore and pulled a boresnake through.
Look at the crud these Auto Tranny Lube (Cant say 3 letter organization "A7F") lubed pads got out!
Did they cover the innards with years old axle grease???
The first patches in sequence.
View attachment 311680
View attachment 311683
View attachment 311684
View attachment 311685
View attachment 311686

My bolt is so sloppy thet is cants and wont go into battery by itself, it needs a nudge.
Anyone else encountered this?



Now i need a scope and go shooting :)
Click to expand...
That is down right clean compared to how my warranty replacement Texan 357 that came direct from airforce was, my first one would not fire straight out of the box, trigger didn't work. I spent the better part of a whole week to clean my new texan, working on it at least 5 times a day with hoppes, patches, bronze brush, and tight patched lead away cloth before I got it clean. After 3 or 4 days my patches were almost as clean as your pictures. I've got to admit, your chamber looks worse than mine did, and I thought my Texan was bad when I got it. Used a friends expensive optical bore scope kit and my bore was horrible, looked like someone must have been shooting concrete balls down it. If your bore looks bad also, and you are not going to send it back, I would suggest buying Wheeler's fire lapping kit. That's what I did with my Texan, choice was either that or send it back to original retailer and get a refund minus shipping charges to send it back. The fire lapping really did a nice job on cleaning up the chamber to rifling transition, nice and smooth after, unlike the sheer cliff it was before, and the bore is nice and is very easy to clean now.
 
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I’d like to say I’m shocked at the poor quality of machining, but sadly, I think it‘s something to be expected from a lot of Chinese products. Though not a fan of the Chinese, I had considered purchasing one of these rifles simply because of the sheer brute power they produce. But I think, especially after having seen the poor quality control issues present in the rifle shown above, I shall demur.
 
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My thoughts are to use an adjustable reamer i have at hand for the chamber and in small increments ream it smooth. It will leave the chamber ever so slightly conical but that will be an advantage for chambering slightly overbore bullets. So win-win.
Then i'll turn a brass piece that fits the chamber with a 30% cone for honing the leade.
On sunday i'll have a chat witht the bright minds at my shooting club and suck in their input before i cummit a poo-poo.
 
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Chickenthief said:
The gift that keeps on giving.
I just found out that my unfluted barrel is from a gen 1 rifle and that is why my barrelband split :-(
Barrel diameter on the gen 1 is .9875" and the gen 2 is only .9675".

I may be able to coax blackartsdesign.com making me a one off model for this mixed mutt.
Click to expand...
Dare I say it, perhaps you should just send the rifle back and demand a new one put together with better quality control and not built using parts sourced from previous rifle configurations.
 
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Wow that lead looks terrible. Wow what they use dull file🤔. How's the rest of the barrel look? My Texan barrel was super rough but a few hours hand lapping with lead laps starting at 120 grit and working up from there. She is smooth and shiny now, cleans up well. I hope the Zeus end up working for you.. I wonder if AEA makes there own barrels. Good luck good shooting
 
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Reedmosser said:
Wow that lead looks terrible. Wow what they use dull file🤔. How's the rest of the barrel look? My Texan barrel was super rough but a few hours hand lapping with lead laps starting at 120 grit and working up from there. She is smooth and shiny now, cleans up well. I hope the Zeus end up working for you.. I wonder if AEA makes there own barrels. Good luck good shooting
Click to expand...
Glad to see someone else had a horrible barrel on their new Texan. I can't believe everyone doesn't complain about them, I never would have bought one to begin with if I had a clue.
 
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phillip said:
Dare I say it, perhaps you should just send the rifle back and demand a new one put together with better quality control and not built using parts sourced from previous rifle configurations.
Click to expand...
Except that i live in Denmark and the shere trouble i have had with local police getting an import permit was horrendus (more than 6 months wait!).
Sending that fence post back and forth several times is a no go.

If AEA drops the ball on this one i will remedy the poo they made myself, and get a fine shooter.
I have sent an email to Zac with a link to this thread and asked for his comment.
I really hope they stand behind their product and send me a new barrel free of charge.
 
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