The “Mongoose” strikes… HW 80 -.22 -20ft lbs

[KWK]

1) Is the piston buttoned? Then why case harden the skirt?
2) You are machining the seal with HSS? I'd like to try that. I'm very good at grinding HSS. I would need to know what urethane and a recommended SFM
3) An uncheckered stock looks bald to me. I've heard guys say it messes up nice figure. That's just wrong. It's the icing on the cake!

Really like your stock shape, AGAIN. Tomarauch

 

[A.G.R]

1) Is the piston buttoned? Then why case harden the skirt?
2) You are machining the seal with HSS? I'd like to try that. I'm very good at grinding HSS. I would need to know what urethane and a recommended SFM
3) An uncheckered stock looks bald to me. I've heard guys say it messes up nice figure. That's just wrong. It's the icing on the cake!

Really like your stock shape, AGAIN. Tomarauch

1. I wanted to test this method out. Working with another fellow testing smooth hardened piston ends and super tight guide clearances.. ,more so than the factory for sure. The piston ,which is not true heat treated steel still gouges when off center. I’m testing it in this gun. Normally I ring all center stem pistons. I don’t like buttons as much.
This shared spec build anyone can do with hand tools. the extras I did on the piston are not adding any speed more than it could decay with snug inner guides Stem.
2
I’m using sharp high speed steel with high rakes and high speeds , believe it or not I use some hand work with razor chisels for facing .. 90 durometer urethane … leave the face semi rough ,like the pic. I find it less Prone to burn..

3 I agree ,I like checkered stocks to.

 

[bustachip]

Personally i prefer the no checkering , I ordered an UK stock with no checkering for my HW97 / 77 , Love it that way , handle's wonderfully

Could we see a picture of that stock? I'm interested in a 97K walnut stock.

 

[beerthief]

this is the stock ,but just plain wood so the grip is not textured , can't find the picture of my 97 in this stock . Wonderful windows updating . i will keep looking for it .

 

[A.G.R]

N

this is the stock ,but just plain wood so the grip is not textured , can't find the picture of my 97 in this stock . Wonderful windows updating . i will keep looking for it .
View attachment 429577

nice wood

 

[bustachip]

this is the stock ,but just plain wood so the grip is not textured , can't find the picture of my 97 in this stock . Wonderful windows updating . i will keep looking for it .
View attachment 429577

Cool, is that a "FT" stock, or just a thumb hole or both? I am looking at the sporter walnut that resembles the prosport stock. Thanks for the pic.

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

Thank you for sharing your work, fascinating stuff.

The satin black really plays well with that stock.
Wonderful lines on your rifle, just enough rake to catch the eye, but understated enough that you have to study on it a moment to pick up on the differences from factory form.

Nicely executed and presented.

 

[KWK]

Can you please elaborate on your pillars. Looks like the flat head allen screws go through the pillar and draw down to the gun? Only resting on the stock by the countersink. Or does the pillar shoulder provide the clamping force against a counterbore in the stock screw hole? With the flat head screw sitting in the countersunk pillar? Thank you

BTW, coach I've been to about 6 high school wrestling matches this year. Will attend sectionals and district finals to help push these kids on. Still see a lot of acquaintances even though our 3 sons are done with it. Great people associated with the sport. A lot of kids thank me for coming out. Cool.
TWO!

 

[A.G.R]

Can you please elaborate on your pillars. Looks like the flat head allen screws go through the pillar and draw down to the gun? Only resting on the stock by the countersink. Or does the pillar shoulder provide the clamping force against a counterbore in the stock screw hole? With the flat head screw sitting in the countersunk pillar? Thank you

BTW, coach I've been to about 6 high school wrestling matches this year. Will attend sectionals and district finals to help push these kids on. Still see a lot of acquaintances even though our 3 sons are done with it. Great people associated with the sport. A lot of kids thank me for coming out. Cool.
TWO!

It’s that time of the year..Champions are made ..

The pillars are steeped to grab the stock shoulder inside the hole that’s counterbored and then the bottom of the pillar first shoulder base.

The top (outside of stock end ) of the pillar is chamfered to accept the 5 mm machine screw that all HW USE. It’s recessed just below the wood surface so you have a flush flat head clean look with no metal showing.. I DONT LIKE SEEING METAL RINGS AT MY MOUNT POINTS. .

SO YOU HAVE 4 solid contact points. The end of the pillar flush to the bracket , (the inside the stock) , the chamfered inner top to catch the flat head Allen screw.
The shoulder inside the stock counter bored wood.
The sides fit to the stepped counter bored stock That STOPS WOOD ELONGATION. THE PILARS END IS FLUSH WIITH INNER FORKS ON THE STOCK TO STOP THE FORKS FROM RUBBING THE BREECH EVER, AND THE SHOULDER ON THE INNER STOPS THE FORKS ON THE STOCK FROM PULLING THROUGH .. THE 5 mm screw pulls it down together as tight as can be with no wood crush ever .. Since the pillars are flush with the bracket hanger and just under the outer forearm of the stock , you can’t screw any more than the pillar . Retaining the strength laterally and into the action..

these are for another stock but exact principle. Actually a (Longbow ) sorry bout the caps ,forgot they were locked and I wasn’t retyping.

that goes into the counterbored hole, and then it’s chamfered like the pic. ,just under the stocks surface for a flush screw to stock fit.

 

[bustachip]

It’s that time of the year..Champions are made ..

The pillars are steeped to grab the stock shoulder inside the hole that’s counterbored and then the bottom of the pillar first shoulder base.

The top (outside of stock end ) of the pillar is chamfered to accept the 5 mm machine screw that all HW USE. It’s recessed just below the wood surface so you have a flush flat head clean look with no metal showing.. I DONT LIKE SEEING METAL RINGS AT MY MOUNT POINTS. .

SO YOU HAVE 4 solid contact points. The end of the pillar flush to the bracket , (the inside the stock) , the chamfered inner top to catch the flat head Allen screw.
The shoulder inside the stock counter bored wood.
The sides fit to the stepped counter bored stock That STOPS WOOD ELONGATION. THE PILARS END IS FLUSH WIITH INNER FORKS ON THE STOCK TO STOP THE FORKS FROM RUBBING THE BREECH EVER, AND THE SHOULDER ON THE INNER STOPS THE FORKS ON THE STOCK FROM PULLING THROUGH .. THE 5 mm screw pulls it down together as tight as can be with no wood crush ever .. Since the pillars are flush with the bracket hanger and just under the outer forearm of the stock , you can’t screw any more than the pillar . Retaining the strength laterally and into the action..View attachment 429674View attachment 429675these are for another stock but exact principle. Actually a (Longbow ) sorry bout the caps ,forgot they were locked and I wasn’t retyping.

I like that, would work good on a prosport. I might have to borrow that..lol.

 

[EMrider]

Very nice looking project you have there
R

 

[A.G.R]

I like that, would work good on a prosport. I might have to borrow that..lol.

It’s exactly what I made them for. I like simple screws and the retaining power of the hidden pillars.

 

[Star7]

Thank you very much for sharing this. I think this thread should be a sticky.

 

[KWK]

It’s that time of the year..Champions are made ..

The pillars are steeped to grab the stock shoulder inside the hole that’s counterbored and then the bottom of the pillar first shoulder base.

The top (outside of stock end ) of the pillar is chamfered to accept the 5 mm machine screw that all HW USE. It’s recessed just below the wood surface so you have a flush flat head clean look with no metal showing.. I DONT LIKE SEEING METAL RINGS AT MY MOUNT POINTS. .

SO YOU HAVE 4 solid contact points. The end of the pillar flush to the bracket , (the inside the stock) , the chamfered inner top to catch the flat head Allen screw.
The shoulder inside the stock counter bored wood.
The sides fit to the stepped counter bored stock That STOPS WOOD ELONGATION. THE PILARS END IS FLUSH WIITH INNER FORKS ON THE STOCK TO STOP THE FORKS FROM RUBBING THE BREECH EVER, AND THE SHOULDER ON THE INNER STOPS THE FORKS ON THE STOCK FROM PULLING THROUGH .. THE 5 mm screw pulls it down together as tight as can be with no wood crush ever .. Since the pillars are flush with the bracket hanger and just under the outer forearm of the stock , you can’t screw any more than the pillar . Retaining the strength laterally and into the action..View attachment 429674View attachment 429675these are for another stock but exact principle. Actually a (Longbow ) sorry bout the caps ,forgot they were locked and I wasn’t retyping.View attachment 429734that goes into the counterbored hole, and then it’s chamfered like the pic. ,just under the stocks surface for a flush screw to stock fit.

Ok, I get it. Looks clean. I don't like metal around the screw either. Especially dislike brass.
BTW I can tell you another way to hide the sight screw holes on your breech block. Countersink the screw holes slightly. Drive in countersink screws. Peen them over a bit. You might have to anneal them first. Now clean it up. Barely see it.

 

[rokonman]

Rare today to see a well worn set of hands. Fantastic job of bringing our hobby up a notch. This retired master mechanic is very impressed indeed!

 

[A.G.R]

Rare today to see a well worn set of hands. Fantastic job of bringing our hobby up a notch. This retired master mechanic is very impressed indeed!

That’s 40 years of best the pavement. It’s not only my hands but the body is feeling it