The HW80.....just how good is it ?

[seven08]

 

Can you elaborate on the JB Weld process you speak of ?



Happy to oblige,

Awhile back I detailed an explanation using JB under the screw caps sparingly. My D34 screws were always coming loose. For a thermal transfer you heat up the good fitting screw driver with a propane flame. Not red hot! (use a steady hand so you don't burn your wood) Place the hot driver tip in the slot or Phillips for a minute or less. The heat will transfer to the screw and soften up the epoxy and will allow the screw to turn out with no effort. I have done it numerous times on the D34's with complete confidence. I have been using the JB Kwik Weld two part 6 minute work time epoxy. The old epoxy balls up and removes very easily.

In the case of this HW 80 I solvent cleaned the wood screw pocket with a Q-tip. I applied a thin layer of JB on the flat washer and inserted it to the pocket bottom. Add a thin layer of JB on the up side of the flat washer , then lay the star washer on the epoxy. Put a thin film of epoxy under the screw cap. Insert and tighten the stock screw normal and let the epoxy cure. Heat will allow the epoxy to soften and release the screw and star washer together. It sounds primitive and like a hack job. Use the epoxy sparingly. Remove any excess that may ooze out. You can't see any in the above screw picture. Those screws have not moved in the last 400 shots and remain tight. Loose screws suck.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the HW rifles use those star lock washers ?



OK...I will correct you. Yes, they do have star washers and flat washers, too. Even the under side of the screw cap is ratcheted to match and engage the star. They still vibrated loose until I "fixed" it. They remain tight after 400 shots and will not loosen until I am ready to loosen them with heat transfer.

I could swear that all the HW airguns I owned in the 80's and 90's only used a flat washer on forearm screws. Must be something new. The problem with external toothed lock washers is they work best when compressed between two pieces of rigid metal surfaces. When the angled teeth on the star washer are compressed with great force they nearly flatten out between the surfaces. This is when these washers work best. When using this type of washer with softer material like wood you just can't get it tight enough for the washer to perform as it should. The wood compresses (collapses) instead of the angled teeth of the star washer flattening out. You'll crack the stock if you were to try to get those star washers to perform as they should. I have been having better luck not using them in regards to keeping my forearm screws tight.

Do you think a 100W solder gun would work to release the screws you use JB Weld on ?

 

[seven08]

I would think it might work OK, too. For you doubters I suggest making up a test sample assembly of a similar wood, washers and screws and try it for yourself. It works well for me and will be standard procedure for me from now on.

I am curious about the install instructions of the brass cup, lock washer and socket screw set I see available. Are the brass cups epoxied in place to the stock?

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

I plan on trying it but only substitute the Loctite with JB Weld on the forearm screw threads only. Then let it cure for 24 hrs. I have zero problems with the front trigger guard machine screw coming loose. I did before using Loctite 242 on that particular screw.

Do you have a chronograph Bob ? I'd be interested in what kind of performance you're getting with your new rifle. Any accuracy groups to share as well ?

 

[whyzee]

The screws and cups that are offered by the UK seller on eBay are top quality. I purchased from him and installed into the R1 stock. They are pressed/drawn into the existing screw bore when tightening the included for-end screws. I didn’t use thread lock on the screws.

These are equal to, or better than, the Beeman screw cups of days past. Only thing is they are not blued.

 

[seven08]

Thanks for the info, whyzee. 

I have no chrono, never had. Trust me on this.....I am getting really good performance in the accuracy dept. I got lucky that it loves the stash of pellets I already own. No need for me to experiment with any others. Remember, I never shoot from any kind of rest ever. Strictly off hand shooting. I have been shooting NRA rifle metallic silhouette for 35 years. I am ranked a Master shooter in .22 rimfire and AAA in high power. The airguns provide me with plenty of low cost practice almost daily. Of the first tin of 500 shots maybe 150 are now at rest inside of a chunk of 4 x 6 lumber. The rest have been sent to that 75 yd. plate or moving little rocks around across the street in the PD ghost town.

That being said, check out this "wallet group" I fired offhand late yesterday with the 80. 2.5" x 3.5" x .250 steel plate at 25 yds. Three shots of HN 5.54 FTT

 

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Nice ! Looks like they splat pretty good on that plate ! You are a good shot that's for sure !