Swaging Lube

Well, I haven't been on this site for a while. It's completely changed.
Those of you that swage your own slugs: What kind of lubricant do you use? I've tried silicone lube, STP Oil Treatment lube, Dillion case lube, RCBS case lube, and Corbin's swaging lube, all with the same results. The problem is removing the slug from the internal punch that makes the hollow point. I've been unable to swage regular HP slugs because after forming the slug it's basically stuck on the end of the punch. Pliers are needed to remove it, ruining the slug. This has been a problem from the very beginning with the P die. I've been making my own slugs for about 2 years now. The only slugs that can be made now are the hybrid ones. The S die for the hybrid slugs worked fine at the very beginning. Removing the slug from that internal punch was easy. I could swage 600 slugs and never needed pliers to remove the slug. It just lifted off very easily. Not anymore. Pliers and a small piece of leather are needed to remove the slug from the tip of the punch. All the swaging equipment being used was purchased from Corbins including the wire. The main caliber being swaged at present is .25. Once the slug is formed, it's completely free from the die. It's just the slug and the punch. I haven't figured out why is sticks so bad. Putting lube on the end of the punch doesn't help. Room temperature doesn't matter. The only thing that changes that I'm aware of is the wire. I buy it from Corbins, four 10lb spools to a box. One or two spools in the box may work so, so, while the other two spools are a nightmare. The dies in question have just one bleed hole. About 1/2'' - 3/4'' of metal comes out. The cores are 11/2 to 2 grains heavier than the slug being made.
Anybody run into this problem or know what's going on here? Thank you.

Also, does anyone know who makes swaging dies other than Corbins? I've looked but can't find anybody. Die makers are out there, but they don't advertise, so they're hard to find.
 
While this is not a definitive answer, while reloading PB rounds, the case expander sometimes would stick causing powder to spill from previously powdered cases on the press turret plate (Dillon).
I simply polished the the expander with some red jewelers rouge, then finished it off with Flitz, then Mother's Mag Polish (mirror finish). Sticking stopped for a long time.
I regularly/annually maintain all of my PB reloaders and polishing is now a part of that maintenance.
However, I'm not certain that you have good access to that part of the die, so only offer this as a possible solution.
Also, there is a lubricant called "STOS" (Slicker Than Owl $h!t) that is supposed to work well for your purpose. I use STOS on many lubricated parts on my loaders and it works great for those instances for sure.
YMMV

Mike
 
I also swage with a Corbin s press, and also make .25s although they aren't really hollow points. I did have a bit of trouble getting small .46 cal hollowpoints off of the punch. I have always put a bit of Corbin swage lube on a paper towel, then used it to wipe the length of wire before I cut it. Doesn't take much. For the large caliber that sticks I rub the bottom end of the cutting with that same paper Towel to get some lube where the hollow point forms. This has worked for me. I also found the slugs come off easier if I raise the handle a little and then press again.
 
I have found doing what Revoman does will help solve the problem. When I first got my Presslug I had the same problems getting the slug off of the pin. After polishing it up it sloved that isssue. I still have to polish it up every 100 rounds or so and it is back to good again. Also I am just using Silicone spray for lube. I tried the Corbin lube and it didn't seem to work any better.
 
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Thanks for the help, guys. I've tried some of what was suggested, but not all. I'll try the things suggested that I haven't tried yet. I don't have any STOS but everything else is in the shop. Corbins says they polish the punches. The punch that is being used to make the hollow for the hybrids that I'm making now didn't stick at first. A couple of thousand rounds were made with no problem. According to Corbins their punches are heat treated to about 55RC. Once they're polished one wouldn't think they would need to be done again since pure lead is being used for the slug. The wear factor there is essentially zero. But I've been wrong before. I'll repolish it anyway.
Again, thank you for the help.
 
Well guys, Revoman and drumie were correct on what the problem was. When I first looked at the end of the punch it looked smooth and grey, but not shinny. The grey that was seeing was ''lead''. It was removed with a 1'' diameter x 1/4'' thick buffing wheel and some white rouge on the end of a dremel tool. It took about 60 secs to completely clean and polish the tip. I've since swaged 1000 40gr hybrid slugs using the S die with No sticking. The Corbins lube was used, not that it made any difference. Other lubes are just as good with some being better.
For those interested, the S swaging die, (see pic), is needed to make the hybrid style slugs. It does everything except form the nose of the slug. The P die is then used to form the nose. The P die is also used by itself to make standard slugs complete, whether they be hollow points or solid points. In the picture both dies are there along with some of the punches that make the HP's and different bases.
It sure would be nice if all problems were this easy to solve.
.250 face.JPG