Currently got a BSA Buccaneer SE .22 a few months ago that I pump with an Air Venturi G9 hand pump. From what I understand, there are no desiccant packs/add-ons that will fit this pump. I am concerned about getting too much moisture in the cylinder that will eventually lead to it rusting out - especially since I live in the humid part of the Pacific NW. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to avoid moisture buildup when pumping?
Tuning Suggestions to Reduce Moisture with Hand Pumping
- Thread starter cmhughes
- Start date
Mine is a Hill which has a moisture filtering pack available as an add-on. Is something like this available for yours?
Or perhaps add one to end of air line before gun:
https://smile.amazon.com/Separator-Pressure-Compressor-4500Psi-Filter，/dp/B08FM3YNYW/ref=sr_1_64?crid=WDT0VEEI5NRP&keywords=moisture+filter+for+compressor&qid=1651004309&sprefix=moisture+filter%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-64
Or perhaps add one to end of air line before gun:
https://smile.amazon.com/Separator-Pressure-Compressor-4500Psi-Filter，/dp/B08FM3YNYW/ref=sr_1_64?crid=WDT0VEEI5NRP&keywords=moisture+filter+for+compressor&qid=1651004309&sprefix=moisture+filter%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-64
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I have been recommend that once in a while put the moisture capturing pebbles in the oven on low heat for about 30-1 hour to ‘re dry’ them. Just a thought
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Go slow. The best way to reduce moisture is reduce heat. There should also be a cigarette style filter on the fill whip on your g9 that’s replaceable. There is on mine, and I swap them out every other fill and let the one I take out dry. They last ages doing it this way.
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One tip I saw in a airgun blog was to put a drop of silicone (NON-petroleum) oil on the inlet of the airgun, so it gets pumped in with the air. The turbulence and/or creep allows the internals to get coated with the oil, the moisture that gets in, beads on the internals rather than setting up corrosion.
Pay attention to where you are, If it is 80% humidity outside, and you can pump in a A/C space, humidity will be lower.
Pay attention to where you are, If it is 80% humidity outside, and you can pump in a A/C space, humidity will be lower.
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just use it indoors where the humidity is low AND watch a youtube or whatever and learn how to disassemble it ... the first time is the hardest, after that things dont need to be kept real tight so after a days use figure 10 minutes into it (probably less once you know it) at the end of the day to break it down, dry it, and lube it up with silicone oil .. itl last forever ...
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According to various PCP supply sources, that add-on is only for other models of the Air Venturi - not the G9.
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Thought those filters were mainly for dust and dirt. I had thought about taking that out and putting a small desiccant pack in there instead (like the ones in supplement bottles), but I don't know how that would affect the pumping pressure.
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Pumping slower is probably good advice to minimize heat because the higher the temperature the more humidity the air can hold. Pumping in driest area helps, like an air conditioned room in coolest part of day.
Unfortunately moisture needs to be removed after compressing and that means a dessicant of some sort. The filters on the Hill pumps that have molecular sieve beads in them really do nothing because they’re meant for post compression and require a dwell time of the compressed air at least at 1,700-2,000 psi. You can add one of those to your hand pump but each session you will need to fill filter to 2,000 psi before air starts coming out of it, and it must be vertical with dried air coming out the top of the filter. This filter is referred to as a molecular sieve. After air starts flowing it will then be quite a few strokes to get it to your desired final pressure. That would be the least expensive route to dry air. Eventually you will have arms like Popeye.
One other thing I’ve pondered is running some copper tube through my deer meat chest freezer intake line to perhaps drop out humidity prior to pumping but I don’t have the diagnostic gear to confirm before and after humidity levels. Even running a line through freezer to a water trap post compression could work but that’s all HP lines and the work to compress all that additional volume. Plus, making sure the line doesn’t freeze a slug of water and it blows up. Not fun.
Your simple answer, Alkin W31. Buy once, cry once.
Randy
Unfortunately moisture needs to be removed after compressing and that means a dessicant of some sort. The filters on the Hill pumps that have molecular sieve beads in them really do nothing because they’re meant for post compression and require a dwell time of the compressed air at least at 1,700-2,000 psi. You can add one of those to your hand pump but each session you will need to fill filter to 2,000 psi before air starts coming out of it, and it must be vertical with dried air coming out the top of the filter. This filter is referred to as a molecular sieve. After air starts flowing it will then be quite a few strokes to get it to your desired final pressure. That would be the least expensive route to dry air. Eventually you will have arms like Popeye.
One other thing I’ve pondered is running some copper tube through my deer meat chest freezer intake line to perhaps drop out humidity prior to pumping but I don’t have the diagnostic gear to confirm before and after humidity levels. Even running a line through freezer to a water trap post compression could work but that’s all HP lines and the work to compress all that additional volume. Plus, making sure the line doesn’t freeze a slug of water and it blows up. Not fun.
Your simple answer, Alkin W31. Buy once, cry once.
Randy
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pump it in Air Conditioned space, Air Conditioning removes moisture from the air and acts as a dehumidifier, or connect a desiccant filter to the intake of the pump, use a hose if needed, it will absorb moisture before it enters the pump.
the G9 looks like it pulls air in through the handle, if so, remove the grips and stuff some desiccant packs in the handle, as much as you can fit in both sides, replace grips.
you can also spray rust prone areas with Maxima motorcycle chain wax, the chain wax will coat and prevent moisture from making contact to the rust prone metal surface, use only Maxima Brand Chain Wax, I use it for all rust prone metals,
the G9 looks like it pulls air in through the handle, if so, remove the grips and stuff some desiccant packs in the handle, as much as you can fit in both sides, replace grips.
you can also spray rust prone areas with Maxima motorcycle chain wax, the chain wax will coat and prevent moisture from making contact to the rust prone metal surface, use only Maxima Brand Chain Wax, I use it for all rust prone metals,
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Is the Maxima motorcycle chain wax petroleum or synthetic based? Being a "wax", I would assume it is rather thick - kind of like grease. I understand that petroleum based lubes will damage O-rings and seals.
For some reason, the manual on the Buccaneer says NOT to use silicone lubricants because they can promote rusting (which I have not heard before); however, I have used silicone on my spring and nitro piston break barrels with no apparent problems.
Maybe purchasing a dehumidifier and putting it in a small room would work, as Washington State is air-conditioned enough as it is.
For some reason, the manual on the Buccaneer says NOT to use silicone lubricants because they can promote rusting (which I have not heard before); however, I have used silicone on my spring and nitro piston break barrels with no apparent problems.
Maybe purchasing a dehumidifier and putting it in a small room would work, as Washington State is air-conditioned enough as it is.
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