Striker assembly

[Cbourbeau32]

Hello, if this is posted in the wrong forum, I apologize.

My (purchased used) maurader has a Hill valve in it. I took the striker assembly out today and this is what I found. It looks very "Jerry rigged" to me. Does a Hill valve require a special striker assembly vs the factory one? The one in my maurader won't allow you to use the degassing tool. I've attached a few pictures.

 

[John "spysir" Blount]

Wow. Very ugly. Any galling in the tube? May have worked well once, I've have never personally tried and such mod.
"Does it require a special ...." Again, I havent dealt with Hill but do believe many go all out on the Hill mods as a system but "required" likely not but perhaps best for overall performance. IF you know what is inside it, valve, transfer port, other I would think a phone call to parts the maker would provide some solid answers.
Personally would replace that no matter. Crosman parts are low cost is neded.
Keep us posted.

John

(NOT anything Marauder but I like strikers polished, and tubes round do check yours. Pic)

 

[Feinwerk]

That is a rough looking turning job on that hammer with some deep gouges! But it does look like the shiny areas are fairly smooth. Could use some touch-up polishing.

That appears to be a homebrew free flight hammer conversion where the spring propels the hammer forward until it reaches the end of its extension and the hammer slides forward and strikes the valve with only its momentum and no more push from the hammer spring. This eliminates hammer bounce on the valve and increases efficiency.

Hammer bounce in a stock Marauder makes sort of a stuttery burp sound as the hammer oscillates back and forth rapidly between the hammer spring and valve return spring, extending the air release from the air reservoir through progresively smaller valve openings. Ideally, you want the hammer to strike the valve once and not hit again.

The position of the nut on the bolt sets the limit of spring energy IIRC.

I think it could still work properly even though it looks a little rough. Polish up the outside of the hammer with some fine grit sandpaper on any high spots or burrs, then polish it with simichrome or flitz. Do not lubricate it with oil or Grease! Try getting some dry powdered graphite or powdered molybdenum disulfide and burnish it into the shiny metal. Make sure the inside of the receiver is clean and polished as well for best and most consistent sliding friction performance.

Good luck,
Feinwerk

 

[Vetmx]

It’s not a striker, it’s a hammer with a built in SSG. Hope you measured it OAL before you took it apart. Lube it and put it back in the gun. It’s in there performing little pcp miracles. You need it. Oh, definitely what Spy said. Polish that sucker on the buffing wheel. Do the bolt also.

 

[Cbourbeau32]

Wow. Very ugly. Any galling in the tube? May have worked well once, I've have never personally tried and such mod.
"Does it require a special ...." Again, I havent dealt with Hill but do believe many go all out on the Hill mods as a system but "required" likely not but perhaps best for overall performance. IF you know what is inside it, valve, transfer port, other I would think a phone call to parts the maker would provide some solid answers.
Personally would replace that no matter. Crosman parts are low cost is neded.
Keep us posted.

John

(NOT anything Marauder but I like strikers polished, and tubes round do check yours. Pic)

View attachment 276207

I have an email in to Tim Hill about it.

 

[Cbourbeau32]

It’s not a striker, it’s a hammer with a built in SSG. Hope you measured it OAL before you took it apart. Lube it and put it back in the gun. It’s in there performing little pcp miracles. You need it. Oh, definitely what Spy said. Polish that sucker on the buffing wheel. Do the bolt also.

I can get it close enough when I put it back together. The slot cut in the end serves the same purpose as the hammer spring adjustment.........too much and it releases the valve. Is it better than the original one?

 

[Vetmx]

The slot in the end of the bolt is to keep the bolt from spinning when you adjust the nut for more or less spring tension. A SSG is a balancing act. You have a window of adjustment that still maintains hammer free flight. If the gun was performing in a way that you were satisfied with when you bought it, just polish and lube everything then put it back together. If you only took it apart because you just felt like sniffing around, the polish and lube will make the investigation worth while. You may have just bought a used gun that was tuned perfectly but the previous owners smith skills were slightly lacking. Clean up his work and get to shooting.