Hatsan Stopping a Slow Leak in a Hatsan Regulator

Still haven't found a video or an instruction page on fixing a slow leak from the regulator.....

But I got enough information from this page and the Factor RC parts diagram to remove the regulator.

Using two allen keys like in that PDF worked great to remove the aluminum cap that was under the bottle connection part which screwed off by hand once the slotted lock ring was loosened. I used a brass punch to loosen the lock ring. The threaded in cap looks similar to the black part but is silver and has a brass part in the center of it. Sorry about no photos....

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I turned the regulator assembly all the way forward by moving the adjustment slots with the adjusting tool that came with the gun then switching to a small allen key and a small flat blade screwdriver to rotate it the rest of the way once the factory tool was too wide to fit in the slot. When it stopped moving forward once the threads were cleared, I used some vinyl caps that came with a set from Amazon I bought to cover QC fill ports, that happened to fit my needle nose pliers perfectly.

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With those on there I was able to grab the brass front end of the regulator and pull / rotate gently until it came out with no scratches. I had a mark on the regulator adjustment and on the gun so it was easy to get it back exactly where it was supposed to be.

Removing the metal shroud around the bottle connector was a bit complicated as the opening around the gauge was too skinny to fit a socket in there and I didn't have a thin enough profile wrench to unscrew it from the inside. I think I will get an open and wrench from a pawn shop for 50 cents and grind it down so it clears enough to remove / install the gauge if I have to do this again. I thought about or just opening up the hole around the gauge to clear a socket but was able to eventually get it back in using a wrench on the outside with the shroud loose to allow me to tip it enough to get a purchase on the flats on the gauge. It has a donut teflon washer under it so it doesn't need to be super tight. The QC connector has a Dowty washer on it but has ample clearance to fit a socket in there so it was easy.

All the O-Rings looked like new with no nicks or damage but they were pretty dry. I could see a little bit of O-Ring lube on some but none visible on others. I wiped everything down and applied fresh O-Ring silicone grease - reassembled and filled it up to 250 bar. While it was empty I also cleaned and greased the O-Ring and the brass "piston" seal on the fill QC. Interestingly that little brass piston has no spring behind it like every other one way QC valve I have looked at. There is a small pin that holds the QC connector seal piston in place which came out easily. No leaks so far after several hours.
 
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