Stock refinishing and checkering

Going to refinish a walnut stock that has checkering. What is the prevailing wisdom as to how I might approach the checkering? Should I use stripper on it like I might with the rest of the stock? Or should I mask it off and stay away from the checkering when using stripper then do I also avoid putting any finish on it?? Stripper recommendations? I'm a decent enough wood worker and have refinished stocks before but none had any checkering. I like the hand rubbed finishes.

Kind regards,

Bill
 
This is what I have used on a gun stock & two cabinets . The stripper I got from True Value -not sure if you have that store around your area . It works pretty fast

Put the stripper on one of those cheap Harbor Freight paint brush's around 59 to 89 cents , the ones that are made in china with like horse hair on them . 

Also got the steel wool from True Value .

Depending on temp let the stripper set for 5 to 10 then take off with the coarse steel wool do not press real hard and watch so that the stripper does not start to dry.

For the checkering use a stiff plastic brush to remove the stripper

Let the stock dry for 24 hrs before sanding

If you use the fine steel wool it will just clog up so go with the course stuff Good luck Darell

0607212310.1623134695.jpg
0607212311.1623134744.jpg
Remember long sleave shirt- rubber gloves-eye protection (face shield to be safe)




 
Checkering needs to be sharp to be effective. Clean it with a nylon brush and then mask it with blue painters' tape while refinishing the stock. For me the Tru oil or other finish works best with multiple, thin coats with more drying time than the instructions suggest. My stocks hang in an old kitchen cabinet (keeps dust off) until the "smell test" - no carrier odor - indicates it is completely dry. This can take several days - depending on heat and humidity. Then rub out with fine steel wool and repeat until it glows in the dark!