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Steel Cylinder for Fill Bottle

As the title says, I have a 10lb CO2 bottle - Steel. The dimensions are 20.75" Tall x 7" wide. I've been looking into removing the valve and replacing it with this: 



https://www.amazon.com/IORMAN-4500psi-Paintball-Regulator-Fittings/dp/B0793PQMT1/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3PA8MG4ZYJGIN&dchild=1&keywords=pcp+regulator+4500psi&qid=1616684899&sprefix=pcp+regulat%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-1



Assuming the threads are the correct size, can I simply take it to my local dive shop and have them fill it? Is there more to this that I'm missing? I need to learn here...

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Thanks for getting the conversation started!

How do I know that this tank has "thin" walls? When I originally got the tank, it came from my local air-gas welding supply. You can see from the images I uplaoded, the brass valve is rated for 3775psi. Why would they pair that valve with a bottle that can't support over 1000psi? 

The point of all of this is for me to not spend unnecessary money on a bottle, if I already have one that will/would work.
 
Tank has a 1984 hydro stamp (among others). Don't think ANY dive shop would fill if it's being modified from its original purpose. They're VERY picky & strict about the type of equipment they'll service & this would be a no-go. (Speaking from professional experience). You'd be much better off finding a used Scuba or SCBA tank than opening THAT can of worms. 
 
Thanks for getting the conversation started!

How do I know that this tank has "thin" walls? When I originally got the tank, it came from my local air-gas welding supply. You can see from the images I uplaoded, the brass valve is rated for 3775psi. Why would they pair that valve with a bottle that can't support over 1000psi? 

The point of all of this is for me to not spend unnecessary money on a bottle, if I already have one that will/would work.


Well, one way to get some evidence (though not proof) is to weigh your CO2 tank and a steel dive tank. Yours will probably be lighter - that'd be a clue. They'd pair that valve with your tank because given the small bore inside a valve (fewer square inches) it'd be hard to make a valve that wasn't rated higher than the tank. So why would they under-spec the valve? I've nothing to gain from you spending or saving money (except that I can sleep at night knowing that I didn't encourage someone to do something potentially hazardous).

Seriously - if you're going to be the ultra-skeptic, then you undertake all responsibility, which means you need to become a material scientist and learn about tanks, pressure ratings, and failure modes. I really am trying to help you here - I have some CO2 tanks laying around, AND a good dive compressor - man, do I wish your idea was a safe one!

GsT
 
I can see at least three issues. It's out of test and there is no guarantee that it would pass one. The valve looks like an odd thread type and doesn't seal with an O-ring so SCBA, SCUBA, or paintball valves are out of the question. Even if you could solve those issues, I think that the tank is not likely to be rated for more than 2200 PSI. I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole.
 
Thank you everyone for the feedback. I have learned a lot! I ditched the CO2 bottle idea and made a few calls. I have a friend that works at a local VFD and he has an old(er) SCBA steel tank from their previous fiber upgrade. How's this for moving in the right direction? I should be able to have it water tested (?) and re-certified for up to 4500 psi.