Crosman Steel Breech installation

[Felinis]

I made a mess of the hammer screw on my Crosman 1322 while installing a steel breach. Despite multiple warnings about stripping the Phillips screw. I ended up having to grind the screw head off.

Surprisingly I did not have to drill out (easy-out) the whole screw. Once the head fell off, the remaining screw shaft unscrewed easily by hand. The old screw head revealed why - the screw was lock-tighted with blue lock-tight compound, but only under the screw head. There was no lock-tight in the screw hole.

Now that I have my new 2240 I want to avoid the screw removal problem. I think that this requires more than just using the correct size screwdriver. Can someone help me out with suggestions?

I have the crazy idea of using a cigarette lighter to pre-heat the screw before trying to remove it.

 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

IMO you're over-thinking it. Just use a factory screw and cut a notch in it for a flat head screw driver. Don't use loc-tite, and put some wax on top of it to help with pellet feeding (pellets like to hang up in the screw hole in my experience)

 

[nervoustrig]

I do the same as Long_Gun_Dallas. Dremel with a thin cutoff wheel to make the slot. Practice on a scrap screw to get the hang of it.

Or buy a slotted screw and modify it.

 

[shambozzie]

Get a small clamp. Get every thing in place. Torque down with clamp. Now install that bastard screw. Release Torque. Bingo.

 

[cjtamu]

There’s a square bit that fits that screw well. I’ll look at mine tomorrow and see if the size is stamped on it. Even so, that screw is so soft it’s the devil. And I start threading by hand to make sure it doesn’t cross thread. I like Nervoustrig’s mod. That’s going to happen.

 

[John "spysir" Blount]

Get a small clamp. Get every thing in place. Torque down with clamp. Now install that bastard screw. Release Torque. Bingo.

This right here .
If you do not have a clamp but do have a gorilla grip handshake that is enough (but too hard to hold and assemble) but yes both take down and reassemble DO use a clap and you'll have no issue.

John

 

[Felinis]

I asked how to remove the hammer screw without stripping it but everyone seems to be telling me how to manufacture and install a new one.

The screw that I am talking about is the one that inserts upwards into the rear of the handle assembly and secures the round cap that restraints the long hammer spring into the bottom tube.

 

[Northwoods22]

I asked how to remove the hammer screw without stripping it but everyone seems to be telling me how to manufacture and install a new one.

The screw that I am talking about is the one that inserts upwards into the rear of the handle assembly and secures the round cap that restraints the long hammer spring into the bottom tube.

I use a soldering iron to soften the loctite on small screws. Hold the tip against the screw head for 10 seconds and it should turn easily. If not, repeat and try again. You can also clamp a steel pin punch in vice grips and heat up the punch with a propane torch. Once the punch is good and hot, hold it against the screw head for 20-30 seconds then see if it will turn easily. If not, repeat and try again.

 

[nervoustrig]

The few I've worked on have a combination Philips/Robertson drive. Robertson being a square drive. Use an R2 bit and it won't cam out.

 

[aroundlocks]

I know the one your on about
It holds the grip frame at the rear
It should not be that tight to be fair
I'm sure its recessed so you cannot cut a slot into it
Can you see what type of screw it is/ if its slotted " posi etc

 

[Felinis]

I use a soldering iron to soften the loctite on small screws. Hold the tip against the screw head for 10 seconds and it should turn easily. If not, repeat and try again. You can also clamp a steel pin punch in vice grips and heat up the punch with a propane torch. Once the punch is good and hot, hold it against the screw head for 20-30 seconds then see if it will turn easily. If not, repeat and try again.

Good suggestion. A more conservative approach than my suggestion of using a cigarette lighter flame. The area is all metal so melting would not seem to be a threat.

I would probably remove the soldering tip to gain more surface area contact, or use a flat chisel tip.

 

[Felinis]

The few I've worked on have a combination Philips/Robertson drive. Robertson being a square drive. Use an R2 bit and it won't cam out.

Good point. Upon closer inspection both handle screws are square Robinson screws, with an additional precut slot across the screw cap. Or it may a screw-head type with which I am unfamiliar.

I think that an R2 Robinson bit with some pre-heating should do the trick. As I said in my OP, the locktite compound only seems to be applied under the screw cap.

Edit: Success! I bought a Channellock R2 screwdriver on Amazon. Arrived the next day. Checked the fit - perfect.

Now I know what it means to be "gun shy". With great trepidation I gingerly, gently tried to turn the front screw and it came right out. Tried the problem rear recessed screw - it turned so easily that I suspect it was not properly assembled. It certainly was not locktighted like on the previous 1322.

 

[DRose]

Locktite or a star washer is preferred when securing the frame to the tube. A loose screw can make the gun unsafe and allow the sear to slip off the hammer. Those screws rarely cause trouble with a break, though the head gets damaged easily. That's why everyone fixated on the front breech screw. Dave