Springer scope rings still moving. Am I missing something???

[2L8]

This is just to share my evening of scope mounting. And then the questions came up...

My springer is a AA TX200 MKIII in .17 along with the Vortek kit, topped with a new Vector Veyron 3-12x44 with what I hope to be the “perfect for me” rings from UTG. They are the UTG PRO low rings (RDU013010) @ 10mm saddle height. They allow the scope bell to sit, no lie, 1mm from the barrel. I dream of this for my FX’s!!!

I discovered this evening that even though I torqued the rings to the dovetail with my Wheeler from 22 i#, in 5 i# increments, to 45 i# (UTG recommends 40 i#). After 3-5 rounds, the recoil has moved the scope rings on the dovetail backwards at every torque setting, even with the stop-pin set fully set forward.

If you know this scope and can see from my photo there is not much wiggle room for scope ring placement.

Does it matter that it moves?

Do I need different rings?

Will they settle in?

I have not tested on the bench after my scope mounting, but would like to hear others experiences.

Here are some photos.

Patrick

 

[Sqwirl57]

Remove the scope from the rear ring.

Remove the stop pin from the ring and clean the threads of the pin and it's threaded hole with some rubbing alcohol and a q tip or something similar.

Apply some blue Loctite to the pin threads and to the threads in the ring.

Reinstall the pin just enough that you can feel it grab the hole in the dovetail and snug the ring to the dovetail as far rearward in the hole as it can go.

Tighten the stop pin down until you feel it bottom out and then back it out just a hair.

Install the scope into the ring and then torque everything down.

Allow the Loctite to set overnight. Longer if possible.

You should be good to go now.

As a side note, I have a couple springers with two piece mounts on them but I usually go with a one piece mount. On a few guns I go as far as to use a UTG dovetail to picatinny adapter and a set of picatinny rings.

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

It moves? how far?...
Are you pushing the scope back before you torque it?* bump the stop against the back first instead of just centering into the hole? I am intrigued

 

[2L8]

@Sqwirlfugger57
"Reinstall the pin just enough that you can feel it grab the hole in the dovetail and snug the ring to the dovetail as far rearward in the hole as it can go."

Thank you Jon
I was back asswords in my recoil thinking. That's what I get for being all "wrapped up" in PCP's and forgetting what a springer really is

@iAMzehTOASTY1
Thanks for your assistance in confirming my springer dyslexia

Patrick

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

@Sqwirlfugger57
"Reinstall the pin just enough that you can feel it grab the hole in the dovetail and snug the ring to the dovetail as far rearward in the hole as it can go."

Thank you Jon
I was back asswords in my recoil thinking. That's what I get for being all "wrapped up" in PCP's and forgetting what a springer really is

@iAMzehTOASTY1
Thanks for your assistance in confirming my springer dyslexia

Patrick

I am also named Jon

 

[Sqwirl57]

Jon party

 

[Hateful McNasty]

Hard to tell by your picture if the stop light d pishing the pin hole out ( bending or wallering ) looks like it is .?

What i found out s if the stop pin is small or skinny in the larger hole ot will continue to push back and walker the hole more and more. Fattet pins tend not to .

Now not to day it's s sure fix but it stopped all my issues . Movment wallering / damage.

These hole shims i made out of tubing .

One picture os in a r9/hw95 the other is a gamo rail before and after. And solved that deforming jole and no more movment or poi changes.

 

[MartyMcFly]

Hard to tell by your picture if the stop light d pishing the pin hole out ( bending or wallering ) looks like it is .?

What i found out s if the stop pin is small or skinny in the larger hole ot will continue to push back and walker the hole more and more. Fattet pins tend not to .

Now not to day it's s sure fix but it stopped all my issues . Movment wallering / damage.

These hole shims i made out of tubing .

One picture os in a r9/hw95 the other is a gamo rail before and after. And solved that deforming jole and no more movment or poi changes.

View attachment 344552View attachment 344553View attachment 344554

That is a great hack, wish I had thought of it myself! Simple and effective solution.

-Marty

 

[2L8]

@Hateful McNasty
Excellent idea!

Patrick

 

[Hateful McNasty]

ONE screw scope rings won’t cut it on a heavy scoped gun.. bkl , 263 or 263h .. will not move.. I use them on 30 plus ft lb guns ..I’ve been through them all dove tail mounts .. bkl.

You can take a #2 pencle and put index marks like rach side of the ring cap, base on receiver and monitor movment. I do. Like a springer i put them on the right side cause when i cock and load its the side that faces me (base)

With them i can quick and easy see any slippage

 

[bdzjlz]

Go to an RWS one piece lock down mount and your issue will be permanently resolved easily.

Having said that, I use the Sports Match two piece vertically adjustable rings with one rear stop pin with absolutely no issues on my TX200s. These rifles have been tuned, and even at +/- 14 fpe exhibit very minor recoil with virtually no harshness or buzz. They are very smooth to shoot. I think this helps resolve this issue a lot.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

Go to an RWS one piece lock down mount and your issue will be permanently resolved easily.

Having said that, I use the Sports Match two piece vertically adjustable rings with one rear stop pin with absolutely no issues on my TX200s. These rifles have been tuned, and even at +/- 14 fpe exhibit very minor recoil with virtually no harshness or buzz. They are very smooth to shoot. I think this helps resolve this issue a lot.

Dont know if id be too hip on the 2 screw cap . Jad them not hold the tube and had slip and spin . I thought the rectical was broken ..lol
Bout a month ago umatex had them in great deals for 6 or 8 bucks just a fraction of that 34$ they show today.

Ya, scope slippage can be a hassle

 

[Hateful McNasty]

That is a great hack, wish I had thought of it myself! Simple and effective solution.

-Marty

Ya, another thing is if it does hammer back the shim ring takes the damage first before the gun/ receiver. But even on that softer aluminum rail it holds firm and aint deformed it yet when ot sermed ot eas like 500 shots and fix with out it .

( I'll call ot the receiver saver© ) patten pending all rights reserved

I got to give nced for the base idea from his attempt..

 

[efem09]

BKL 1 Piece mount, will do the trick.

 

[rwsmike]

I have had zero issue with rws one piece scope mount on my tx or my hw97 and they are cheap.

 

[Sqwirl57]

I'll vouch for the Lockdown mount as well. Have one on a 15.5ftlb RWS 34 and a 17fpe LGV. No issues with either.

 

[rwsmike]

Both of mine I screw down that back pin on the lockdown....what surprises me is the lockdown mount only uses single rings but they dont move.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

Thats good to hear on that rws mount .

That screw count kinda worried on if enugh to rrally hold the tube.. umarex was near giving them away in great deals before the last update listings

 

[RicL]

Not sure if anyone already mentioned but Try degreasing the rail and mounts/rings. Especially the rail, typically a blackish gunk will be found.

 

[Triglav]

Remove the scope from the rear ring.

Remove the stop pin from the ring and clean the threads of the pin and it's threaded hole with some rubbing alcohol and a q tip or something similar.

Apply some blue Loctite to the pin threads and to the threads in the ring.

Reinstall the pin just enough that you can feel it grab the hole in the dovetail and snug the ring to the dovetail as far rearward in the hole as it can go.

Tighten the stop pin down until you feel it bottom out and then back it out just a hair.

Install the scope into the ring and then torque everything down.

Allow the Loctite to set overnight. Longer if possible.

You should be good to go now.

As a side note, I have a couple springers with two piece mounts on them but I usually go with a one piece mount. On a few guns I go as far as to use a UTG dovetail to picatinny adapter and a set of picatinny rings.

I heard that weaver/picatinny adapters hold on to the rails better too. However, if possible, I'd switch to a one-piece mount and that'd be it, especially if such mount has 4 holes for screws at the base, rather than just three, as those hold even better.