Sportsmatch rings arrester pin backing out on my HW50

I’ve read about scope shimming. Is that only necessary when you run out of adjustment in your scope or are there other reasons to shim? I find this stuff fascinating.

If you have concerns about the actual rings themselves possibly being out of alignment in a matched set, considering how small such an amount would likely be if it existed, then considering shimming a scope or ring would seem foolish. Shimming (either scope or ring) would physically create more misalignment on the scope tube in relation to ring saddle than would ever likely occur from mis-machining of the rings themselves. That is why I asked the question. Orangeit noted concerns over 2 piece ring alignment above. I don't shim anything, ever. Many do, and are happy with the result. I use Sportsmatch adjustable rings when correction is needed to avoid such possible loading of the scope tube and 2 piece rings have always worked fine for me. If one piece mounts give a shooter more confidence then by all means use them.

As to reasons to shim (or use adjustable mounts), it could be as you note to correct a severe misalignment of barrel and rail where you have neared the limit of scope adjustment, or to correct excessive droop, or just to keep the scope near "optical center" when mounted.
 
maybe this is a side tangent but:

on my diana 48- i woulda had to use shims or an adjustable mount to keep the scope happily within its adjustments. Instead, I decided to bend the barrel to meet the optically centered scope. it worked out so well that i have since bent a couple other barrels to meet up with an optically centered scope. i know that process may sound crazy and destructive but it was quick and easy and worked very well for my needs. 

how: optically center scope, mount scope, bend barrel to meet scope, fine tune using scope's adjustments (which in the end is only a click or 2). accuracy was not hurt and the outcome was awesome. only took a few minutes to bend the barrel. i used my basement steps which dont have toe kicks/risers so i just leverage the barrel in between the treads. 
 
maybe this is a side tangent but:

on my diana 48- i woulda had to use shims or an adjustable mount to keep the scope happily within its adjustments. Instead, I decided to bend the barrel to meet the optically centered scope. it worked out so well that i have since bent a couple other barrels to meet up with an optically centered scope. i know that process may sound crazy and destructive but it was quick and easy and worked very well for my needs. 

how: optically center scope, mount scope, bend barrel to meet scope, fine tune using scope's adjustments (which in the end is only a click or 2). accuracy was not hurt and the outcome was awesome. only took a few minutes to bend the barrel. i used my basement steps which dont have toe kicks/risers so i just leverage the barrel in between the treads.

Many have advocated this method for quite some time. Not something I've ever done personally but I don't know why you couldn't (or shouldn't) do it. Probably wouldn't work for underlevers very well.
 
Which of the two rail clamps is the right way for 11 mm rail?

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