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SPA M40 .22 barrel quality help

Need help trying to figure out what to do with the barrel I received in an M40 .22 barrel.

I tried many different lead in many different shapes, weight, pressure and velocity. But all of them feel bad in group size. I am talking about 2 inch at 50 meters with the one it likes the best.

Below is some photos of the crown and an abnormal rifling at the muzzle wich looks like a seam at the very end of the barrel.
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The rifle was bought from krale and is still under warranty. I just don't want so send it back if there is something I can do to fix this. I have acess to cnc machines and can cut and crown the end if needed. I just want info on what to do and if this is definitely a defect in rifling and or crown.

Many thanks
 
These are some of the lead I tried so far by the way.
20240312_172426.jpg

If anyone with this kind of barrel could get me some feedback on what their SPA barrel likes and shoots I would be grateful.
.22 only please I already have one in .177 and know what it likes or not and it is sub moa at 50 meters hence my disappointment with this one.
Initialy I thought it was because it uses a gas operated piston to actuate the the semi auto mechanism that could be messing with the barrel vibrations but after testing without it and inspecting the rifling it made me think twice.
 
Ignoto,

What appears to be lead streaks on the lands near the crown is probably damage caused by the crowning tool pilot. Cutting the barrel shorter and recrowning seems like the only way to fix this.

One aspect to consider is if the barrel muzzle is chocked and if that is required to shoot well. Perhaps less of a consideration, considering the barrel is not shooting well. Before you cut the barrel, or do anything to the muzzle, also check the breech end for burrs or sharp edges that can damage the pellets on loading. This guide may be very useful indiagnosing barrel trouble, and on how to fix it:

If you recrown the barrel then you need to align to the bore and not the barrel OD. We like to think these are the same, but often they are not. If picking up and running true to the bore is difficult, then simply parting off the barrel, and then using a sharp lathe tool to cut a flat crown, from the inside to the outside, can minimize any burr formed. Cutting from the outside in maximizes the burr into the bore, and should not be the last process used.

The flat crown is the most forgiving of air flow when concentricity is suspect. The very edge of that 90 degree edge can be lightly chamfered by means of a round brass screw head and 400 grit lapping compound. Finer or rougher lapping compound can also work. The screw head sperical diameter should be about twice the caliber that you are recrowning. The screw is spun in a hand drill, Dremel or similar hand tool, while the barrel is spun slowly in a lathe in the opposite direction. An orbital motion is used while lightly holding the hand drill, so that the brass screw head does not form a groove in one location. The drill motion is similar to the way curved lenses are ground.

It is possible to perform this brass screw lapping with the barrel pointing up, in a vice, or still attached to the airgun. In any event, push a cleaning pellet or wad of felt or tissue into the bore perhaps 10 mm below the crown, to prevent lapping compound from travelling down the barrel. After you are done, blow the wad out from the breech end with compressed air. Follow up with a few more oil wetted cleaning pellets to wipe out the residue so you can inspect the crown.

It actually takes very little time to produce a functional crown using the brass screw method. They key is to keep the screw in contact with the muzzle so it does not chatter. Yet, use such low pressure that the lapping compound does the cutting, rather than trying to displace steel by contact pressure.

It may help if you push pellets through the bore to see if they are tight or loose in some parts of your barrel; or if they catch. This should be done from the breech, which may mean removing the barrel from the action, unless the bolt or probe can be removed. If the pellets are loose down the barrel, then you may need to find some with a larger head diameter to shoot well. Ditto for slugs. The projectile should not rattle down the barrel.

If the breech is tight or sharp, that can cause loading force to be so high that it distorts or shaves the projectile. Which would make it shoot poorly. So, it is important to diagnose all the potential causes for poor grouping and then address them appropriately, rather than assuming the crown is the only potential problem.

Be careful about overtightening the barrel retention screws on reassembly, as that can spring the barrel bore out of round. Or dent the barrel if the screws have sharp points to located in dimples. Better to just "nip" the screws lightly, then apply wicking Loctite to prevent them from coming loose. You should also check the inside of the barrel opposite the retention screw locations for any deformation when you check the rest of the bore.

Read the barrel trouble shooting thread, linked above, before you do anything. It contains lots of useful information.
 
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Subscriber sent me a bat signal 🦇

Yeah I agree, that looks like the typical scored lands resulting from a piloted crowning tool that SPA is infamous for. My first experience with it was back in 2017 with a model CR600W. Crummy picture, sorry.
rifling damage.jpg


And as far as I can tell, they have no intentions of ever fixing it, having seen numerous examples of it over the years.

The good news is, the barrels usually respond very well when chopped and recrowned. For example, the CR600W I did with primitive tools (no lathe at the time)...
chopped and recrowned sm.jpg


After that it was a complete 180°. Managed a Feinwerk group one day at 25 yards:
HN FTT 4.51 25yds Feinwerk.jpg


And a hapless housefly that landed on my 43yd paper. Not bad for lobbing a mortar at ~560fps.
fly 43yds.jpg


So since you have the capacity to chop and recrown, that would be my recommendation. Almost certainly will want to relieve the sharp step into the rifling at the end of the leade as well. I talk about that some in the writeup Subscriber linked.

Any questions, just let me know!
 
it is a bad barrel, as one can clearly see in the bottom photo,,, a perpendicular line across the lands, created by SPA in their mfr process
if one were to remove the barrel and push a pellet through the barrel, one would find that is the tight spot, after which the pellet will free fall out the end of the barrel,,, resulting in a scattered group, making the side of the barn , the size of the grouping
return,,, chop off and re-crown or just replace the barrel,,, choice is yours
 
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Thank you everyone for all the help and comments and forgive me for the late response but this last month i have been very busy and only this past couple of days i managed to find time to adress all this.

I reached out to krale concerning the problem i had and they promptly sent a return label so that they could troubleshoot/fix this but it unfortunately happens that the shipping options were not to my liking so i ended up cutting the barrel myself.

Being a semi-auto there is a piston that slides around the outer part of the barrel so i could not just simply chop off the end because most of the lenght is needed to actuate the mechanism.
At the very end there is a groove to place a circlip (not needed for function but as an extra safety)
IMG_20240424_104530.jpg


I figured i could cut a cone with a very steep angle with tangent radius to ease off turbulence so that i could clear the damaged rifling but could still leave the outer part intact


Concentricity between rifling and outer diameter was good (0.020mm) at different depths past the damaged section. This one was not deforming the pellet but was throwing it out of alignment on some lands which would impose an exaggerated pitch angle at muzzle. Value i measured was 0.04mm on the most damaged groove in relation to the rest.
IMG_20240424_022729.jpg


I took 2 groups at 35m before rework and 1 after. Pellets were HN 14.6gr field target trophy power at 695fps 21joule /15.5ft-lbs @55bar (needs a lighter hammer and different spring to work in semi at this low energy)
IMG_20240424_163813.jpg

IMG_20240424_163808.jpg

IMG_20240424_163819.jpg


The velocity loss with the 6mm shorter barrel was 5fps at this pressure.

The bad part is i may have to test all the pellets out again.
The good part is i actually enjoy the run as much as the finish.

I feel tempted to inspect my other barrels after seeing these results just out of curiosity and learning purposes.

But before i do i may end up either polishing or reworking the other end.

Once again thank you guys for all the guides, knowledge and opinions. helped out a bunch to make me climb another step!