Tuning So many first world problems lately Impact mod woes

I have shot my Gen1 impact so many times with the cocking lever opened, my bad, that I finally bent and loosened the pin on the reloading block. These pins are a bit thin on the Gen1 guns so they bend easy. For it to manage to survive with 12,000 plus rounds through it is a miracle in itself. Some months back I straightened the pin and used some epoxy to keep it in place, in the block, for a bit. But after firing it with the action opened, a couple more times last time out, I finally decided to just replace the whole block with one of the nice Saber Tactical units before I started damaging my trigger block.

Utah had one of the Ambidextrous Cocking Blocks so I ordered, a few days back, and the text on my phone said it was delivered. But when I opened my door there was nothing there. Naturally the worst case scenario immediately went through my head. But I calmed myself down and just patiently waited. I found out an hour later my neighbors had taken the package inside to make sure it got to me. Good neighbors.

So, I tore the gun down, for it's tenth or twelfth time, to modify it again, today. Unboxed and unwrapped my new parts and tried to install them. First signs of troubles, in the first world, was the rear support block will not sit level on the gun as it just touches the very edge of my Monster Design Power Wheel Dial locking it in place tightly.

Haven't decided if I am going to grind the steel wheel down at an angle or Dremel the aluminum cocking block.

Probly just Dremel the block as it is softer metal and so little needs to be removed. Such a touchy little operation it is though I could make things look really bad really easy.



Next thing I noticed is that the new pin will not fit the hole in the guns side lever link bar. It is way to big. Bigger is better, in this instance, and as usual FX has made an upgrade to the size of the pin to stop some of damage with the abuse we give these things. Still this is causing me problems. I don't think there is enough material there, on the original link, to drill the hole out any larger so I guess I need to replace it.

Edit;

Yes it does fit, my early Impact-X, I was trying to fit the wrong pin!

Or maybe I should just replace the whole arm assembly with a shorter stroke unit? I think that there is one is available.

More first world problems! Way too many choices it's a wonder anyone ever gets anything done with so many choices to make every day.



Anyway it's such a hard life in the first world. ;^)

Edit;

I have found the linkage bar I am after has the same part number throughout all of the Impact guns. So, they have modified the Gen1 parts as well? Looks like it I will have to call tomorrow and find out what is going on.

Ernest is sold out of his short throw levers so looks like I will be going for just the stock linkage bar.
 
41B7C64D-CECB-416E-80F1-6CDA82368731.1638323625.gif

 
A very small kiss on that block, I mean just knock the edge off will make that monster wheel clear and you will never see it, I have done it 3 or 4 times now👍🏻 The cocking lever problem I have had was with the Sabre blocks, if I remember right, the forward bock was 2mm and the rear 2.5? Maybe 3mm to 2.5? I don’t want to miss speak so let’s just say they were different, offering a loose fit, so I drilled out the front holes and used the bigger size dowl pin which fit the existing hole in the cocking forward arm. Was great after that. I feel ya, it sucks when parts don’t fit just the way you want them! So I’m guessing my parts would have fit your mk1 perfectly?. Going bigger was easy, but smaller? I don’t think you have enough meat to open up that hole? Would probably be too close to the edge and weaken the arm👎🏼 Good luck man! You will figure it out, probably just get the new arm from Fx USA.
 
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Ordered my parts. FX makes things so easy. Just fill out the form and press submit. Then they usually get back to you, in a day or two, with a link to make the payment. Your order is shipped promptly, after the payment is received, if the parts are available.

https://www.fxairguns-usa.com/parts-order/

Hopefully I can get the parts soon so I can get back to tuning the .22 for the Hades. For now I will have to keep tuning on the .30 m3 for the NSA 47.5. That is until the tube for my arrow pistol gets here. I have a new grip and pump arm set for my replacement 1377, that was stolen way back in late 2010, waiting to be put together as well.

Always lots to do if I am willing and able for the day.

Yup, such a rough life it is here in the first world.
 
I had a post several months back about that ST cocking block issue, I complained here at AGN, complained to Saber and complained to my dealer, nobody bothered for a first while, but I got really stubborn ;)

Actually it is a triple issue with the ST cocking block, you have learned the first two only. Let me help you out with a next issue. 

When you close the cocking lever it will touch to block "ear" exactly the edges between the upper and lower. And me as well hit the trigger with an open cocking lever couple times and it will leave a nasty footprint there.

Isn't this ugly enough to change that design? I even tried to put a dampener on that arm:

ST block issues.1638410013.JPG




I kept complaining and finally my local dealer sent me a new set, and guess what? same thing, the rear block is 3mm dowel screw the front block is 2.5 mm dowel screw = Saber Tactical never bothered to fix the design flaw within this one year I had it on my Impact. So I re drilled the hole from 2.5 to 3 mm and reused a new 3mm screw. this tightened the play in the lever arm, also installed one more rubber ball in the front block (A10.1) and 3d printed a shock dampener similar to this in the picture.

Yes, I know, we shall be always aware of the cocking lever is closed...





Edit: btw I am shopping for a new power wheel as well but North of the border all shelf's empty. Mine is not turning easy, worn out from all the power testings and the number side of the wheel all damaged only the letter side is turning so=so smooth.
 
Thank you for that! 

My brain was on a vacation there for a bit so I did not fully understand the pins were actually different sizes on mine too. So, they fit my old link just fine and I put the gun back together with the new ST parts. I can cancel my order for the new link now as it is not needed. I used a tiny piece of electrical tape on the back of the cocking arm so it would not damage the ST block. I will find a thin piece of rubber and glue it to the arm in that contact spot so the finish will not get marred up. 

The ST block seems to be made for the old Gen1 pins? I thought that FX upgraded the pin, on the reloading block, and made it larger on the Gen2 guns but when I checked the diagrams on the FX site the reloading blocks have the same part number and the pin is not a separate part. So I don't know what is up.

So then as I understand it your linkage has two 3mm holes, the upgrade did happen, in it and that is the reason you had to drill?

OK I found this so I understand now. FX did upgrade the pin and linkage. Saber Tactical needs to do the same.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/fx-impact-reloading-block-issues/#post-968480




 
Sorry I messed up the hole pin sizes, I remember only the two were different sizes, I was talking from my memory, but found now my old post:

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/ambidextrous-cocking-block/?referrer=1

Yes, one block had a 2.5 mm hole and the other block had the 2 mm hole really cannot remember which the front or the rear . Since I got a new Saber set from my dealer this how I ended up having two pieces of each pins and I enlarged the smallere hole from 2 to 2.5 and now both holes/pins are 2.5mm. Uhm, long to explain but I guess you got the picture.

In a way Saber made that design on first block it was just way too much free play and when we added up a free play on every connected part all the way to the pellet probe that resulted 0.7 mm inconsistent pellet/slug sitting depth. By design there is only one rubber ball in front block, I ordered that size from McMaster and now I have two balls to tighten the play down.

btw, that electrical tape slice won't be enough, better wrap couple layer on the linkage, probably over 15 turns.

Also, Ernest titanium handle is shorter (as he claimed to avoid a hit on the front block) that means you need to apply a bigger effort to cock it, and this was probably a reason he just decided to stop offering.
 
I was going to drill and tap my old block to match the upgraded pins but my old block has some wear on it so I ordered the Saber Tactical unit instead. 

Now I find it has the old style original FX pin size. I really want to upgrade to the Gen2 with the larger pin as I all to often pull the trigger with the action open so eventually bend the pin. So, rather than drill my brand new reloading block and find a new metric pin I guess it will soon be in the classifieds. 

The replacement upgraded reloading block from FX is only $42 so it's really not worth my time to do the repair.

Parts are ordered and they got back to me in a few hours this time kudos to FX

The tape was only a stop gap measure I am going to glue a piece of rubber to the arm even though I am not going to be using it I will sell it that way.
 
I got a bad habit from shooting in a gun club ... that "action open" thingy is really just a volunteering from my side as an airgunner, but lately I really promised myself to pay more attention and no to touch the trigger if the cocking lever is open.

I left the 2.5 mm pins there and you would be fine as well. I just need to make this my routine somehow more "idiotproof" ;)
 
I have the same problem action open and chamber flag in required often on the firing line. So, it's not hard to sit down and forget the action is open especially once the flag is out.

I was trying to upgrade the 2MM pin to 2.5 when I started all of this. But the 2mm is what the Saber Tactical uses in their reloading block. Hoping my new FX unit has the 2.5 pin there.

I found one of the soft plastic tubing caps, cut the end off, and stretched it over my cocking arm, to protect things, it werqs well for now.


 
Well I went out to the mailbox today and found a package from FX in there. Hurried in the house, grabbed the scissors and cut the envelope open and found my, reloading block and link. FX has the upgraded the block with a 2.5mm pin replacing the the 2mm pin that always bent when you forgot to close the action before pulling the trigger. 

The Saber Tactical Ambidextrous reloading block, I bought a few days back, fit my MK1 impact just fine but, was not the upgrade I thought it was going to be. Anyway the gun came apart easy and went together fairly easy as well. The hardest part was punching the pin out, of the loading arm, and putting it back in the new arm so, I could replace the linkage piece with the one with the new 2.5mm hole. I gassed it up, when I was done and had no leaks which is always nice when you get done werqing on one of these. Then I put it on the tripod and fired off a few rounds to test it out. It werqs flawlessly and is close to center on the target so the gun is good to go again.

All was not well with my compressor though when I went to air the gun up. I have two compressors near one another and have been werqing on the one. I plugged the wrong water pump in so no water ran through the one I was testing. Overheated so bad it smoked again for the fourth time. I am an evil man. ;^)

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/no-good-deed-goes-unpunished/?referrer=1