Snowpeak 177 P35

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fderry

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May 2, 2019
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Colorado, United States
I ordered a Snowpeak .177 P35 on Monday evening and received it today. Krale is very fast!

Background:
I have had a Diana Skyhawk in .25 for about 3 years. The reason I bought it over the less expensive P15 was the stock. The Skyhawk stock is the best fitting bullpup stock (at least for me) of any bullpup that I have tried. Plus the Skyhawk is the lightest bullpup I have used.

The Skyhawk was an interesting journey. I lost the barrel lottery. Had to re-barrel with a custom LW barrel and solve a lot of smaller problems. Vetmx replied to a picture I posted of the stock barrel that “Cannons on shipwrecks from the 1800’s have nicer barrels”. Once I put money and effort into it I had a very nice bullpup that was fun to shoot.

Lately I have been moving toward .177 airguns because I don’t need larger/more powerful pellets for the shooting I’m doing now (20 to 60 yards – mostly steel and paper targets). Decided to buy a .177 P35 and put it into the Skyhawk stock.

Today:
Unboxed P35. Moved P35 action to Skyhawk stock, put air into it, mounted scope and cleaned barrel. Tested trigger pull - it averages 2.8 pounds (about same as the stock Skyhawk/P15). Sighted in scope, then shot 21 rounds of JSB 10.34gr pellets to determine initial tune and accuracy. Velocity is in the ballpark but need to play with hammer spring adjuster to see if I can reduce extreme spread. Accuracy at 30 yards was not good. 11 rounds at about 1.1”. I had hoped for better accuracy out of the box but anticipated worse based on my experience with my .25 Diana Skyhawk.

Shot count: 21
Low: 898
Hi: 919
Avg: 904
Spread: 21
STD Dev: 5.2

Main difference between the P35 and the Skyhawk/P15 is a picatinny scope rail and forward cocking lever on the P35. The cocking lever seems less substantial and not as smooth as the rear cocking lever on the Skyhawk/P15.

Intend to use my experience with Skyhawk/P15 to tune and fix any issues with P35. With luck I will not have to re-barrel the P35. More to come over the next few weeks.
 
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I have 3 P35s. I bought a 25 caliber last fall and liked it enough I bought a 177 and 22 as soon as Krale got them in stock, I think it was late May of this year. My 25 is the worst shooter and it will still do 1/4 inch 3 shot groups at 25 yards. Sometimes it will shoot that small a group at 33 yards. It has killed all 18 squirrels I've shot at with it. Only one required more than one shot.

I put a couple pictures in the Stoeger bullshark thread about trigger adjustment on a P35. Apparently the Stoeger is nearly identical. The first stage adds to the second so I make the first stage minimal. That gets me down to a little over a pound. From there you can decrease sear engagement to reduce pull weight and creep. Reducing sear engagement is risky, it can cause an accidental discharge. So be careful if you do this. But I have all three of mine under a pound with no discernable creep.

I tested JSBs in my 22 caliber and it shot the 18s well at 25 yards but it shoots H&N Baracuda Match better at 33 yards. It has twice put three of the H&N through the same hole at 25 yards. I did not test JSBs in my 177 with the 25 and 22 both preferring H&N. I initially thought it liked H&N Baracuda Power best (copper plated) but then I tested 4.50 Baracuda Match and it shoots them even better. It does not like the 4.52 Baracuda Match, however. My score went up 20 points on the 30 yard challenge with the 4.5 Baracuda Match. I think my scores with both the 177 and 22 are OK at the 30 yard challenge.

My 177 had at least 3 turns more hammer spring than it needed as received. It did not seem to affect accuracy but does make cocking harder. My 22 was my only P35 with a reasonably balanced hammer spring to regulator as received.

It may not work on the Stoeger but the hair curler mod is a very inexpensive way to quiet the P35. I put half a curler wrapped in felt in first, then a full curler wrapped in felt next, then a baffle then the end cap. Each curler piece is partially inside a baffle. I have to extend the shroud about 3/4 inch to do this. The 177 was 82db a meter to the side and a foot in front of the muzzle with this mod. Stock it was over 90 db.

It is a sample of only 3 rifles but my two newer P35s are a little nicer than my original 25 caliber. They shoot better but the magazines also have two magnets instead of one. The crown on my 25 looks bad and is so recessed I cannot figure out how to polish it. My 22 and 177 needed a polish, I think, but a little time with JBs and they look and shoot pretty well.
 
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Played with moderators today to see if stock shroud could be contributing to inaccuracy. Shot 11 round groups with DonnyFL Tanto 25-30 cal moderator, Tanto 117-22 cal moderator and no moderator (really loud). The Tanto 25-30 was about equal to yesterday’s group with stock shroud (no picture of stock shroud group). Looks like the accuracy issue is barrel related (surprise, surprise).

Accuarcy Test.JPG


Crown picture
P35 Crown.jpg


Looks like I’m going to have to do a little barrel work next.

P35 1.JPG

P35 2.JPG
 
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Your crown looks a lot like my 177 and 22 used to look. I polished them with JBs on a brass round head screw. I had the screw in a cordless drill and the barrel out of the rifle. Removing the barrel is easy on the P35. I would take the shroud off first, then the bright aluminum piece off the end of the barrel, then remove the grub screw holding the barrel in. You have to pull the cheek rest to get to it and loosen the cocking rod to get it out of the way. The grub screw is right under that rod. Then loosen the two clamps of the action and the barrel slides out. I'd leave the action in the stock for this. You don't want the two clamps to move or cocking may be affected. I don't know how my rifles would have shot if I'd tried them without the polishing. I saw the rough looking marks and decided they needed polished. Fortunately it's pretty easy.
 
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Sorry to see that happening, undoubtably brings back frustrating memories to more than just you and me.

My original barrel had a tight spot in front of the lead, it was destined to a junk pile. The shrouds also had problems, both ends of the shroud were threaded crooked. This meant if you purchased a adapter and put a moderator on it it would clip, badly.

Good luck, I hope you get it shooting better. JimD’s polishing mod may serve you well/

Regards,

Roachcreek
 
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That's what I thought too. Somebody didn't take enough time. But my slightly older P35-25 looks worse if you can imagine that. I think SPA is getting better. Both my guns purchased this year shoot well. I'm not a great benchrest shooter but my P35-177 has shot a 184 on the 30 yard challenge and my P35-22 has shot a 191. That's not a 200 but it doesn't make me want to put a different barrel on either. It took me maybe 15 minutes to polish up the crown. Now it would have taken maybe 30 seconds more time machining the crown to eliminate the need....
 
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I have use this Scotch Brite type A very fine and use it as a patch in polishing the inside barrel, I have use a little bit of oil as a lubricant and after finishing, I have use the blue shop towel cut into small pieces to finish up cleaning up the internals, and it works wonder for my barrel. Just a suggestion if you want to try it.

Amazon.com: 3M 07447 Scotch-Brite Maroon General Purpose Hand Pad,20 Pack : Health & Household

Amazon.com: 3M 07447 Scotch-Brite Maroon General Purpose Hand Pad,20 Pack : Health & Household
www.amazon.com
 
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I found JBs worked well. It took a few minutes, I'm estimating 15 minutes per gun, but it was aggressive enough. I just looked at the bore every few minutes and I stopped once I could no longer see the chatter marks. A more aggressive grit could have cut down the time but it may also be easier to do something you don't want to do. I was careful to vary the drill angle to the bore to try and make the removal uniform around the crown.
 
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On my P35 I re-barrelled with an old FX .177 barrel back when they still used LW barrels. Polished it as well as cut a thread on the end to take a moderator. Then fitted a Huma regulator and a larger plenum. Also fitted a riser block to the picatinny rail that is adjustable for height. Playing with the idea of doing the double reg mod, first reg at 160 and the Huma at 130 bar. That should help the extreme spread some. Really enjoy shooting the gun after doing all that work to it. It is a journey if you buy a cheap gun! Probably not cheap anymore, especially if you factor in my machining time.
 
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fderry said:
I ordered a Snowpeak .177 P35 on Monday evening and received it today. Krale is very fast!

Background:
I have had a Diana Skyhawk in .25 for about 3 years. The reason I bought it over the less expensive P15 was the stock. The Skyhawk stock is the best fitting bullpup stock (at least for me) of any bullpup that I have tried. Plus the Skyhawk is the lightest bullpup I have used.

The Skyhawk was an interesting journey. I lost the barrel lottery. Had to re-barrel with a custom LW barrel and solve a lot of smaller problems. Vetmx replied to a picture I posted of the stock barrel that “Cannons on shipwrecks from the 1800’s have nicer barrels”. Once I put money and effort into it I had a very nice bullpup that was fun to shoot.

Lately I have been moving toward .177 airguns because I don’t need larger/more powerful pellets for the shooting I’m doing now (20 to 60 yards – mostly steel and paper targets). Decided to buy a .177 P35 and put it into the Skyhawk stock.

Today:
Unboxed P35. Moved P35 action to Skyhawk stock, put air into it, mounted scope and cleaned barrel. Tested trigger pull - it averages 2.8 pounds (about same as the stock Skyhawk/P15). Sighted in scope, then shot 21 rounds of JSB 10.34gr pellets to determine initial tune and accuracy. Velocity is in the ballpark but need to play with hammer spring adjuster to see if I can reduce extreme spread. Accuracy at 30 yards was not good. 11 rounds at about 1.1”. I had hoped for better accuracy out of the box but anticipated worse based on my experience with my .25 Diana Skyhawk.

Shot count: 21
Low: 898
Hi: 919
Avg: 904
Spread: 21
STD Dev: 5.2

Main difference between the P35 and the Skyhawk/P15 is a picatinny scope rail and forward cocking lever on the P35. The cocking lever seems less substantial and not as smooth as the rear cocking lever on the Skyhawk/P15.

Intend to use my experience with Skyhawk/P15 to tune and fix any issues with P35. With luck I will not have to re-barrel the P35. More to come over the next few weeks.
Click to expand...
Please tell, where do I order this airgun in America? Thanks
 
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Rasberryrl said:
Please tell, where do I order this airgun in America? Thanks
Click to expand...
There is no US outlet. Today the Krale store lists all the P35's out of stock. If I were you I would consider the Stoeger Bullshark bullpup which is a P35 with different stock. It has a 5 year warranty and dealers across the USA. I bought one instead of the Krale P35 and love it. Eurooptics discounted the price.
 
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JimD said:
I have 3 P35s. I bought a 25 caliber last fall and liked it enough I bought a 177 and 22 as soon as Krale got them in stock, I think it was late May of this year. My 25 is the worst shooter and it will still do 1/4 inch 3 shot groups at 25 yards. Sometimes it will shoot that small a group at 33 yards. It has killed all 18 squirrels I've shot at with it. Only one required more than one shot.

I put a couple pictures in the Stoeger bullshark thread about trigger adjustment on a P35. Apparently the Stoeger is nearly identical. The first stage adds to the second so I make the first stage minimal. That gets me down to a little over a pound. From there you can decrease sear engagement to reduce pull weight and creep. Reducing sear engagement is risky, it can cause an accidental discharge. So be careful if you do this. But I have all three of mine under a pound with no discernable creep.

I tested JSBs in my 22 caliber and it shot the 18s well at 25 yards but it shoots H&N Baracuda Match better at 33 yards. It has twice put three of the H&N through the same hole at 25 yards. I did not test JSBs in my 177 with the 25 and 22 both preferring H&N. I initially thought it liked H&N Baracuda Power best (copper plated) but then I tested 4.50 Baracuda Match and it shoots them even better. It does not like the 4.52 Baracuda Match, however. My score went up 20 points on the 30 yard challenge with the 4.5 Baracuda Match. I think my scores with both the 177 and 22 are OK at the 30 yard challenge.

My 177 had at least 3 turns more hammer spring than it needed as received. It did not seem to affect accuracy but does make cocking harder. My 22 was my only P35 with a reasonably balanced hammer spring to regulator as received.

It may not work on the Stoeger but the hair curler mod is a very inexpensive way to quiet the P35. I put half a curler wrapped in felt in first, then a full curler wrapped in felt next, then a baffle then the end cap. Each curler piece is partially inside a baffle. I have to extend the shroud about 3/4 inch to do this. The 177 was 82db a meter to the side and a foot in front of the muzzle with this mod. Stock it was over 90 db.

It is a sample of only 3 rifles but my two newer P35s are a little nicer than my original 25 caliber. They shoot better but the magazines also have two magnets instead of one. The crown on my 25 looks bad and is so recessed I cannot figure out how to polish it. My 22 and 177 needed a polish, I think, but a little time with JBs and they look and shoot pretty well.
Click to expand...
Received the XM1 Bullshark in .22. shoot CPUM consistently around 970fps out of box. CPUM or cphp was one pellet hole for 9 shot group at 17 yards. With sear engagement 3mm screw adjustment, it got down to 1.5lb or less. Would you share how to lighten the first stage pull weight? Replace the spring on the rod? Or just move that lock nut behind the spring rearward to cut down spring tension? Thank you for lots of your info on this p35 platform.
 
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The first stage spring looks like a ball point pen spring. There is a collar at one end with a tiny grub screw. If you loosen that, you can slide the collar to reduce the spring tension. I did not see it at first either. It makes a big difference. It lightens not just the first stage but also the second stage. There is no chance lightening this spring causes the gun to not cock or accidentally discharge like there is when you decrease the sear engagement.

When you take the action out you may also want to put tape over the pin above the trigger so it doesn't fall out when you pull the action out. That has happened to me a couple times.
 
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fderry said:
Played with moderators today to see if stock shroud could be contributing to inaccuracy. Shot 11 round groups with DonnyFL Tanto 25-30 cal moderator, Tanto 117-22 cal moderator and no moderator (really loud). The Tanto 25-30 was about equal to yesterday’s group with stock shroud (no picture of stock shroud group). Looks like the accuracy issue is barrel related (surprise, surprise).


Crown picture
View attachment 285781

Looks like I’m going to have to do a little barrel work next.
Click to expand...


That crown looks like............crown of thorns! o_O
 
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