Tuning Slippery Question

crowski

Member
Dec 14, 2020
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I’m close to starting my venture of taking apart and cleaning, polishing and maybe change some springs and piston seals, 
I’ve taken an Exisco apart about 5 times and watched a zillion videos. I find a bit of confusion on which grease or tar is best. I have 4 Vortek kits that come with a sm. tub of grease. I’m hoping to accomplish this upgrade to all my springers. 

Could I please get advice on which grease or tar you recommend for a rebuild?

Happy New Year. Crow 
 
yeah you want to treat most of it with moly, not the chamber, and i suggest a lovin gooey as hell tar for the spring, promotes that sought after 'thud' ... as far as what brand and where to get it id go over to gateway and ask the old timer gurus, what i did when i was into springers .. they hooked me right up, but yeah thick stuff on the spring that stays put and pliable is what i found one of the best things i could do to a springer, whole new animal .. polishing techniques is the other big thing, then treat with the moly, 'treat' being the key word, its not grease, it bonds to thr metal on a molecular level and you wipe most of it out and can actually use a secondary lube on top of it .. but yeah ask them, get a fresh quality seal to and buff that tube to a fine sheen your grandad would be proud of lol .. ...
 
Some folks will tell you to pack it full of plumbers silicone and squirt chamber choir oil down the transfer port every 375 shots. But they can't say why. 

Some will say use wheel bearing grease on everything. But they can't say why. 

Some will say that some guy that started a forum years ago and made a clever name for himself only used Super Lube and it's the best. But they can't say why. 

Some will say only use super expensive space station grease. But they can't say why it's worth the cost. 

Some will say use all manner of stuff. But they usually can't say why other than "I've done it this way for so many years". 

And some will argue till they are blue in the face that tuning is a waste of time and you "shouldn't" have to do it in the first place. 

Myself? 

I'm pleading the fifth. Not going down this hole again. But theres some options to look into, and judge for yourself. I don't use any of those, and have valid reasons for it. 

Kudos on the clever title! :)




 
Many of us have opinions on what we think works best. This doesnt mean the other's materials wont work or that they are bad for your gun, just opinions of what worked well on our guns. You have a number of options out there nowadays, sovyou might need to try different things to see what works best for you. Each of us have a particular feel we think is best or for your shooting style. Lots of newer materials have evolved over the years as well as older standby materials from years past. Most all agreevthat a good moly paste is necessary for metal to metal contact. Like Dizzums mentioned above, moly paste should be rubbed into the metal ( it is called burnishing in the professional field) vigorously then the excess removed. Then moly "grease" can be used on top of the burnished moly paste. So can silicone lubes. Just keep petroleum based lubes away from the seal as it could have issues with thevseal material. This is why all seal mfgrs request silicone lube for the seals, but use sparingly !!!! One drop wiped around the od of the seal is plenty. Good moly paste burnished inside the compression tube, excess removed, and that one good drop of heavy silicone seal lube is all that you need. Way to many folks over lube this area and this can cause issues. For the spring, there are things like tar, ( keep away from seals) heavy grease ( very sticky) or heavy silicone grease ( also very sticky) as a spring dampening compound. Use sparingly!!!! Some folks run there springs dry, I have not had sucess with dry springs but some claim they do. Bottom line is...lots of things to try, only you can decide what works best ( in your opinion) for your rifle. Each ofvthese things can give your springer a slightly different firing behavior depending on which spring and power level your rifle is shooting at. Good luck....
 
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Some folks will tell you to pack it full of plumbers silicone and squirt chamber choir oil down the transfer port every 375 shots. But they can't say why. 

Some will say use wheel bearing grease on everything. But they can't say why. 

Some will say that some guy that started a forum years ago and made a clever name for himself only used Super Lube and it's the best. But they can't say why. 

Some will say only use super expensive space station grease. But they can't say why it's worth the cost. 

Some will say use all manner of stuff. But they usually can't say why other than "I've done it this way for so many years". 

And some will argue till they are blue in the face that tuning is a waste of time and you "shouldn't" have to do it in the first place. 

Myself? 

I'm pleading the fifth. Not going down this hole again. But theres some options to look into, and judge for yourself. I don't use any of those, and have valid reasons for it. 

Kudos on the clever title! :)




^^^This. Always opens a can of worms...lol. I use what I use, no urge to get bashed yet again for my choice. You read the advice given by those who actually do, you make your own choice and see what you think after it's done. Don't like it, tear it down and try again with choice 2.

Same can of worms if you ask about thread lockers...just sayin....lol
 
Boscoebrea if reel oil makes my guns 1/2 as smooth as my Stella’s, I’m all in. Use instead of Ballisol ? oil.

Thumper had no idea this would raise some hairs, Sorry. I have no idea what to use and I thought this forum would be my best chance of getting solid answers. I watch u-tube lots which is fascinating but lots of controversy about oil and grease. Almost confusing at times. I will never criticize you or anybody if I ask for advice. All thoughts good and bad are good to hear and certainly why never hurts to be in the vocabulary. Thanks Crow 
 
Boscoebrea if reel oil makes my guns 1/2 as smooth as my Stella’s, I’m all in. Use instead of Ballisol ? oil.

Thumper had no idea this would raise some hairs, Sorry. I have no idea what to use and I thought this forum would be my best chance of getting solid answers. I watch u-tube lots which is fascinating but lots of controversy about oil and grease. Almost confusing at times. I will never criticize you or anybody if I ask for advice. All thoughts good and bad are good to hear and certainly why never hurts to be in the vocabulary. Thanks Crow

Well here is my thoughts on what you DON'T do:

Don't put anything "oil" or the consistency of oil INSIDE the rifle. Especially don't put silicone oil on the piston seal. 

And instead of justifying it with "I've done it this way for XX years!!", I'll tell you why I think it's a bad idea.

Because silicone oil is liquid (duh) and it will run wherever it wants to, even small amounts. Moly lube is a solid, suspended in just enough grease to keep it together. You get your moly lube put on, burnished in, whatever. Now you have oil run across it and guess what happens? The moly paste gets thinned and now it's running everywhere too, and most importantly away from where it needs to be. Particularly away from the walls of the cylinder. 

But the BIGGER QUESTION, is why are we squirting silicone oil in to begin with, when it's completely unnecessary?

Silicone is a horrible lubricant for anything but rubber. Those are facts, not my opinion. 

Moly is an excellent extreme pressure solid lubricant that is excellent for sliding steel surfaces. Those are facts, not my opinion. 

It's also a very good lubricant for hard rubber, such as urethane and won't get squeegeed away by a tight fitting piston seal like silicone oil or any other oil would. 

Modern aftermarket piston seals are made from urethane, which is a very abrasion and wear resistant rubber. In a smooth tube, it only requires enough lubrication so that it doesn't squeak and drag against the tube. It's not going to wear away quickly in the absence of lube. The moly alone is more than enough lubricant for the piston seal, and will stay there!

The whole point of the moly paste for the piston seal VS a straight grease or oil is that it doesn't get squeezed away. It's a solid lubricant that shears between the parts and doesn't burn away or diesel when used right. The moly itself is a solid, and won't burn until a couple thousand degrees or so. If it diesels, it's the grease carrier burning off, and you used too much.

A tub of moly paste and clear tar from ARH will lube any part of your rifles properly and will be all you need to do it right. Substitute any decent grease for the clear tar if you like, it's just for lubing the compression chamber to receiver on the underlevers and pivot points. Moly is fine there too, but it's dark colored, and a tiny smear will be all over you if you happen to pick any up on your finger. Hence the clear stuff or regular grease preference there.

As for the heavy tar or "silicone grease" or "dampening compound" that some use on the spring OD to dampen vibration, I don't see the need for it. I use a piston sleeve so that the spring can't rattle inside the piston. And the stuff really doesn't make that much difference anyway.

If you're using Vortek kits, which I personally don't care for, they are already slathered with grease inside the guide. So lubing the piston body and seal is all you have left to do. Again, moly paste would do the job fine there. I'd clean the goop out of the Vortek kit and replace it with a thin wipe of moly if it were me. And if it's the new steel type kits, a wipe of moly on the outside of the outer guide won't be a bad idea either. The last one I had was VERY soft steel and tried to gall inside the piston. One of many reasons I don't like the Vortek kits..



These are my thoughts, with a few facts tossed in for good measure. It's your gun, use whatever you see fit. Good news is, none of it (well almost none of it) will cause your gun to seize up or be ruined immediately.

As always, I encourage anyone to use facts, hard data and common sense to make their decisions rather than blindly trusting the opinions of someone else. 






 
The " fact" is...every manufacturer of piston seals recomend a drop of silicone oil. AA and RWS and Beeman all have made statements not to run their seals dry. Not my opinion but FACT !!!

@AirShot

Please see page 8, paragraph one from the Air Arms TX200 owners manual:

"Do not apply lubricant to the barrel seals or allow lubricant to penetrate to the piston seal as dieseling may result. Dieseling is caused by oil or grease igniting in the compression tube when the rifle is fired. This process is very damaging and should be avoided at all costs."

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12-R2IwJFOV8kC_a3TEJ05dJNNwTbWxnM/view?usp=sharing



For Weihrauch (Beeman doesn't make rifles) please see page 16 concerning maintenance:

"The lubrication of your system (piston, piston seal, main spring) was already applied during assembly. With normal use it has to be renewed when the piston seal or the main spring have to be exchanged."

*That also dispells your commonly mentioned theory that the grease inside a Weihrauch is nothing but a rust preventative, and not actually a lubricant. 

https://www.weihrauch-sport.de/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/HW-303550...99-dtsch.engl_.franz_.pdf



For RWS, they DO RECOMMEND adding "Chamber Oil" to the transfer port every 1000 shots. They also claim that it's Non-Petroleum, and go on to claim that it's good for pivot point lubrication.

https://www.umarexusa.com/UMAREX/Product%20Manuals/Manual%20RWS%20Pellet%20Rifles%2006R16.pdf

Now if their lube is "non-petroleum", and likely silicone oil as you assume, then using it to lubricate metal pivot points is a very poor choice. Which they recommend that you do with this stuff, right there in their manual.

Airgun Depot goes as far as to confirm it's just silicone oil: https://www.airgundepot.com/rws-air-chamber-lube-dropper.html

Curious to note that one company out of all of these you mentioned ACTUALLY recommends the "chamber oil". Yet they supposedly use the same kinda seal right? Why do you suppose that is? Maybe because RWS is the only one that sells their own brand of oil at $15 a tiny bottle? 

It's funny that RWS is the only major brand air rifle that doesn't have a "maintenance free" piston seal, and they are also the only company that sells their own overpriced little bottles of oil. 






 
"Stella,I love you". On the Waterfront. Much has been written about silicon oil....agreed not for air guns....and air guns do not have ball bearing.

No cleaner/oil either....truth is not much to lubricate on a air gun...I use a "little" pellgunoil...and sheeeee Hot Sauce grease.

Anyhow not much oil,grease needed or wanted....and while I am at it ,my barrels get cleaned as often as it snows in the SF Bay Area.