Skyhawk hammer trigger issues

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Roachcreek

Roachcreek

Member
Mar 18, 2017
869
382
Orego\'n, United States
Many of you are aware of my love/hate relationship with my Skyhawk.

Well the Skyhawk has been down a couple of months now.

It started when for no apparent reason it would not cock anymore and I discovered a pin had fallen out of the trigger block. Lani and I tried to reassemble the trigger block from scratch, meaning no diagrams and I finically just ordered a new one. In the meantime I broke a couple linkage pieces on the Bowman forward lever assembly trying to get it to cock and ordered the replacement parts from Jake.

I got the parts in this week and reassembled the trigger block and the forward cocking lever assembly.

The problem I am having now is that while I can cock the hammer and release it by pulling the trigger without the hammer spring and tensioner in, if I install the hammer spring and tensioner it will not cock.

I have tried this same routine without the trigger linkage attached and nothing changes, it cocks without the hammer spring installed, but does not cock with the hammer spring installed.

If I cock it without the hammer spring, then install the hammer spring while cocked, it will fire, open the valve etc, but then will not cock again.

I reached out to Jake this morning and got a prompt reply. Jake said this has happened to him, and if he takes off the trigger block, installs the hammer spring then installs the trigger block it fixes the problem.

I tried Jakes fix with both the sear set and also in the fired position a couple times and it is still the same.

Any ideas, anyone experienced this with the p-15/p-35 platform?

More importantly, anyone know how to fix this frustrating problem that does not require garbage service?

Regards,

Roachcreek
 
I believe what is happening is the lever is not pulling the hammer back far enough when the hammer spring is installed. I have experienced this a few times

Check the cocking pin that goes from the bolt to the hammer to ensure it is tight. Ensure the sideplate is tight as it also serves as a guide for the cocking pin. The slightest bit of play in this area and the lever will not pull the bolt back far enough to cock.

Also check the sear adjustment setting, try changing sear engagement to see if that helps.

I just realized that you also have the forward cocking kit---perhaps inspect that to ensure it is indeed pulling the bolt back far enough for the sear to catch.
 
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RC,

I don't know if it's the same thing but at least two of my P35s have failed to cock because the clamps that clamp the barrel to the airtube were not in just the right position. The last time I had removed the barrel of the 177 and when I put it back it was off maybe 1/16th of an inch. Fortunately I could still kind of see where it was before I removed the barrel and the next try worked fine. I wrote down in my notebook that my guns measure 24cm from the end of the action to the closest edge of the first bracket.

Jim
 
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Sorry if repositioning the brackets did not work. That sounded like the issue to me. I'll attach a picture of the trigger parts as they fit together. I made the mistake of taking my P35-25 trigger mechanism apart and had a heck of a time getting it back together. The inside of the trigger block was the one area I found (so far) on my P35s where I was disappointed in the machining. I filed it smoother but I don't think it made any difference. I took this picture before I put it back together for good so I would know how things go if I ever take one of them apart again (or one of the pins falls out and they come apart (but I taped over those pins too))..

P35 trigger parts.jpg
 
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Jim,

You nailed it. I loosened the screws on the towers and tapped the towers and scope rail with my rawhide casting mallet and it cocked like it was supppsed to.

I tape up those pins also those and the ones on the trigger assembly.

I was working on a shroud when it first stopped cocking. I had tapped the shroud to remove it and evidently started this whole fiasco.

Thanks again to ll of you and your imput.

Regards,

Roachcreek
 
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Me too (taping). You mentioned the shroud, RC, have you tried an in shroud moderator? I was using Aaron Cantrel's hair curler mod and while it was quiet, sometimes the shroud shifted a little and the pieces rotated causing clipping. The moderators I have in all 3 of my P35s are 120mm long so you have to extend the shroud about 1.5 inches. But I did that with hair curlers too. I don't love plastic (printed) moderators that stick out because I broke one. But inside the shroud they should be safe. They are working great so far. About as quiet as the best hair curler version I came up with but without the clipping risk.
 
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Well just when I thought I had it fixed then all hell broke loose or rather would not break loose, ie., pellets not making it out the barrel.

I assembled everything this morning, did some assetic work,on the shroud, then mounted the little Bugbuster to sight it in, problem was the pellets were not hitting the paper at 8 feet. I finally found out why, they were loose in the barrel. They had not even expanded their skirts in the barrel.
At first I thought it might be a missing barrel oring but it was still in the Skyhawks barrel, I checked the barrel oring and it was good so I suspected the hammer spring.

The hammer spring I had been using, had a rubber buffer on it and I had lost that buffer and tried to use a slug for a shim to get more power but that did nothing for me. I knew I had another spring, I just needed to find it.

So I spent the day runaging through a decade of parts in zip locks looking for a old spring I just knew I had somewhere, at this stage in life I can’t remember where I put stuff and can’t see it when I look directly at but I did find a spring that fit, maybe a little too long, but I could make it work. But I could not get much more power through it, the pellets did exit the barrel but bounced off the duct seal.

Thinking I may have valve lock, I dry fired maybe 100 times, the gauge got down to 3200 or so, but the report was still weak.

Then suddenly I had all sorts of air coming out, I had a complete dump of all the air in the tube.

So I refilled or tried to, but the air just came out, the valve was letting it out the barrel, cocking the rifle did not help, I had a big oroblem in the air tube.
So I disassembled the forward cocking lever to get the airtube off and examined the valve.

The valve return spring had eaten my valve, the valve head was half way inside the valve returnnsoring. So I spent the next hour or so reassembling the Skyhawk, calling it little sexy names and accusingn it of vulgar sex acts now and then, but I got it back ytogether and sealed up and sighed in.

Anybody ever heard of such a failure? It appears that the valve return spring was reversed and let the valve travel halfway through it, but it mayn have just expanded the spring, either way, the valve was just not opening all the way.

Now to ice my thumbs.

Regards,

Roachcreek


61F59D48-D30C-434F-8BEE-F163470EB25B.jpeg
 
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