Skout Skout Epoch Share and Discussion

Another thing to note for early production owners is a newly machined version of the probe. These have been found to improve projectile positioning and increase consistency and efficiency. The latest shipments already have the new probe, but for early gun owners it is available. Call Skout.

below: Comparing the original .30 cal probe on top, to a redesigned .25 cal probe.

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Introspect, after a long shooting session yesterday something was not right ... accuracy with pellets had faltered, yet slugs were still shooting great with the NEW PROBE installed ... W T F 🥴
An investigation today reviled the "Why For"

Pic 1 shows the OEM probe with longer pin ( Ignore taper mod )
Along side it the replacement probe sent
LENGTH difference @ .200" which is an ISSUE with pellets as found out. That much shorter pin and a pellet ( 44.75 ) having a tail cavity only puts the pellets head in rifling & skirt is back in the barrel thimble @ .200" When shot the pellet has to jump forward for skirt to enter barrel and does not always do so square & true because the thimble bore is @.312" and pellet is @ .300" Pellet YAW might be happening ?
Pic 2 while not perfectly lined up shows the OEM probe in behind a 44.75
Along side it the Replacement probe in behind a JSB dish base slug
*In this instance the base of both slug and pellet are about equal and would seat each at there @ required depth in barrel used with the appropriate probe.

Pic 3 is a 44.75 seated with the oem probe fitted & is correct chambering (y)

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The probe length differential you're showing appears much greater than the one I have. The current thinking, as I understand it, is that both slugs and pellets need to be inserted fully to where all parts of the projectile are in contact with the throat of the barrel but short of engaging the rifling.

One thing that I have noticed is that my accuracy is VERY much affected by how clean or dirty the barrel is. I know that Skout claims that their Teflon impregnated barrels "shouldn't" require as much cleaning. However, I've found that the nature of these 10 land/grooved barrels is such that they collect a great deal MORE lead at the breach end than any of my other guns. I attribute this to the number and depth of the lands and grooves. When I notice a drop off in accuracy, I run a couple of dry patches thru the barrel (a process made very much faster and simpler by the guns ratcheting barrel lock) which immediately restores its accuracy.

I suspect that it is this build up of material at the breach end of the barrel that is causing the pellets to engage the rifling at uneven "pressures" and causing the falloff in accuracy.

My pictures are of different caliber probes, but given the difference in lengths between a .25 and a .30 pellet, perhaps the difference seen in your photos make sense.

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The probe length differential you're showing appears much greater than the one I have. The current thinking, as I understand it, is that both slugs and pellets need to be inserted fully to where all parts of the projectile are in contact with the throat of the barrel but short of engaging the rifling.

One thing that I have noticed is that my accuracy is VERY much affected by how clean or dirty the barrel is. I know that Skout claims that their Teflon impregnated barrels "shouldn't" require as much cleaning. However, I've found that the nature of these 10 land/grooved barrels is such that they collect a great deal MORE lead at the breach end than any of my other guns. I attribute this to the number and depth of the lands and grooves. When I notice a drop off in accuracy, I run a couple of dry patches thru the barrel (a process made very much faster and simpler by the guns ratcheting barrel lock) which immediately restores its accuracy.

I suspect that it is this build up of material at the breach end of the barrel that is causing the pellets to engage the rifling at uneven "pressures" and causing the falloff in accuracy.
Funny, I’ve notice lead buildup about 2-1/2” from the muzzle on both the standard and - barrels. So much for nano-tech or whatever wonder coating is on the barrel. I’ve not had leading like this on any other airgun barrel, and just received both a nylon and bronze bristle brushes because a pull-through won’t remove it.
 
Interesting in that ...
I have totally neglected the barrel maintenance in assumption of SKOUTS stated anti-foul bore treatment.
At this time I'm perhaps about 4 tins in ... give or take 600 pellets down range. ( ONLY shot with the .300 35" liner )

I did however place a larger champher at barrel entrance & put in a small bit of taper inward @ .150" to aid loading slugs. It indeed smoothed up loading and accuracy thus far has been stellar.
 
I’ve not had leading like this on any other airgun barrel, and just received both a nylon and bronze bristle brushes because a pull-through won’t remove it.

I've had no issues removing the residual lead using only patches and lead remover. As with any air rifle, I began by throughly polishing the barrel. Perhaps that makes the difference.
 
Funny, I’ve notice lead buildup about 2-1/2” from the muzzle on both the standard and - barrels. So much for nano-tech or whatever wonder coating is on the barrel. I’ve not had leading like this on any other airgun barrel, and just received both a nylon and bronze bristle brushes because a pull-through won’t remove it.
I’ve noticed after 2 tins of JSB 44s that I had to clean it too. Took at least 15-20 pull through patches and accuracy back to under an inch at 75 yards.
Too bad I couldn’t shoot a few gas checked slugs like I did with powder burners, lol.
 
That may be the solution. I purposely did not polish it because of the coating.
Me either, I’m VERY new to air rifles and the whole coating thing made me nervous to even put a brush in the bore. I’m very appreciative of all this knowledge so far in this thread. I’ve been just reading all about the Skout and trying to get mine to run. The company has been TOP SHELF in dealing with the issues. Hopefully tomorrow I get to order my 35” barrels. Have to call Darryl.
 
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I’m VERY new to air rifles and the whole coating thing made me nervous to even put a brush in the bore.

Once again,there is NO COATING. The barrels are made of an alloy that is impregnated with a Teflon derivative. It's part of the metal, not applied to it, so you can't scratch it off. I don't recommend the use of metal brushes at all on any guns, but using even the stiffest nylon brush you can buy will not damage these barrels.
 
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Once again,there is NO COATING. The barrels are made of an alloy that is impregnated with a Teflon derivative. It's part of the metal, not applied to it, so you can't scratch it off. I don't recommend the use of metal brushes at all on any guns, but using even the stiffest nylon brush you can buy will not damage these barrels.
Thanks for letting me know. I was just going off the video Bill Gardener was in on the barrel liners on Skout’s YouTube channel where he says 2 times (2:47 into the video) that the alloy was “coated” with nickel boron.
I’m glad that I can at least run a brush, nylon of course, and clean it a little bit faster than using 20+ patches
 
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Once again,there is NO COATING. The barrels are made of an alloy that is impregnated with a Teflon derivative. It's part of the metal, not applied to it, so you can't scratch it off. I don't recommend the use of metal brushes at all on any guns, but using even the stiffest nylon brush you can buy will not damage these barrels.
Can the manufacturer guarantee that this impregnation will never be damaged by the use of lead projectiles?
 
Can the manufacturer guarantee that this impregnation will never be damaged by the use of lead projectiles?
Since it's not a painted on coating, rather a substance impregnated throughout the alloy, any wear experienced would simply expose more of the same material blend. So, while I don't speak for the manufacturer, given my understanding of the product, I can say that damage to the barrel by lead will not be an issue.