First off let me say this process has been a PITA from limited mounting hardware to the actual sighting in process. As for hardware, EagleVision makes good mounts and accessories for Pard night vision scopes, but unfortunately the one I purchased is incompatible with the Evol. The magazines are too tall and there simply isn’t much pic rail to work with behind the breech.
Even with CARM magazines that are thinner and have a lower profile, no dice! It would be too tight to remove and insert the mag and may affect the mag’s rotation if I try to force it to fit.
I was left with few alternatives other than to use the manufacturer’s mounting hardware. I knew in advanced from reviews that I’d have to shim it. The Pard 008s came with 2 shims and I made 12 more from an aluminum can.
12 shims stacked and mounted between the mount and the bottom of the scope at the rear of the mount (ocular lens end). The shins will bend as you tighten the mounting screws. Torque them too much and the thinner sides of the aluminum shims can break under pressure.
As you can see there isn’t any real estate left at the back of the pic rail. If I move the mount back any further the rear bolt will hang off of the pic rail. This leaves a very tight space to squeeze the expensive Evol magazine into.
It scratches them slightly. Again, the CARM magazines work well in this configuration as they can be inserted and removed with less resistance and little to no scraping of the magazine.
The Pard instruction manual lacks many details necessary to assist users in setting up their scopes. It’s almost useless IMO. Allow me to save you some time if you’re trying to adjust your reticle to sight in your scope.
On the X axis: positive numbers move to the left, negative numbers to the right.
On the Y axis; positive numbers move down, negative numbers move up. This would have been helpful to add to the manual. I hope I’m not being an idiot and over looking this in the manual. Either way I didn’t see it in there and my reticle doesn’t move noticeably with incremental adjustments which made the process frustrating.
It took me three shooting sessions to get this scope sighted in on this gun. I made shims and had to play with placement and the number of shims as well as the coordinates on the digital reticle. What made the process so lengthy is that I did not see the reticle moving as I adjusted the coordinates. No matter how drastic the adjustments were. I tried doing what I saw others do in YouTube videos, but to no avail. BUT…I finally got it. As seen below how I had to walk my shots across the target. Getting on paper was a PITA. Once there, the process became easier.
Sad thing is this is just my 20 yard zero. I have to back it up now.
I’ll be adding details about my process to this thread as time permits.
I made progress today. Found my holds for various distances out to 55 yards.
More to come…
Even with CARM magazines that are thinner and have a lower profile, no dice! It would be too tight to remove and insert the mag and may affect the mag’s rotation if I try to force it to fit.
12 shims stacked and mounted between the mount and the bottom of the scope at the rear of the mount (ocular lens end). The shins will bend as you tighten the mounting screws. Torque them too much and the thinner sides of the aluminum shims can break under pressure.
As you can see there isn’t any real estate left at the back of the pic rail. If I move the mount back any further the rear bolt will hang off of the pic rail. This leaves a very tight space to squeeze the expensive Evol magazine into.
It scratches them slightly. Again, the CARM magazines work well in this configuration as they can be inserted and removed with less resistance and little to no scraping of the magazine.
The Pard instruction manual lacks many details necessary to assist users in setting up their scopes. It’s almost useless IMO. Allow me to save you some time if you’re trying to adjust your reticle to sight in your scope.
On the X axis: positive numbers move to the left, negative numbers to the right.
On the Y axis; positive numbers move down, negative numbers move up. This would have been helpful to add to the manual. I hope I’m not being an idiot and over looking this in the manual. Either way I didn’t see it in there and my reticle doesn’t move noticeably with incremental adjustments which made the process frustrating.
It took me three shooting sessions to get this scope sighted in on this gun. I made shims and had to play with placement and the number of shims as well as the coordinates on the digital reticle. What made the process so lengthy is that I did not see the reticle moving as I adjusted the coordinates. No matter how drastic the adjustments were. I tried doing what I saw others do in YouTube videos, but to no avail. BUT…I finally got it. As seen below how I had to walk my shots across the target. Getting on paper was a PITA. Once there, the process became easier.
Sad thing is this is just my 20 yard zero. I have to back it up now.
I’ll be adding details about my process to this thread as time permits.
I made progress today. Found my holds for various distances out to 55 yards.
More to come…
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