Should i reblue FWB 300? Who does factory quality job?

All.

I few months ago I bought an FWB 300 with a Tyrolean stock. I compete in silhouette and this gun is what I use in Target Class. While I have a couple of high power PCP guns, I have come to really love the engineering of this gun and the incredible accuracy.

The problem is the finish is thin and the rifle is prone to quickly develop rust. There are some small pits on top of the cocking arm. My question is... Should I consider having the gun reblued? Will that hurt the value of such a collectable gun? and What about refinishing the stock?

This gun shoots 3/8 inch groups at 36 yards. I plan on keeping it, but I don't want to ruin a collectable either.... Does anyone know if the factory will work on their vintage rifles?



Ed Garner

Maumelle, AR


 
there is a down side to this project COST

but if that is not a problem are we going to hot blue the rifle, if so every single part will have to be removed and the showing parts redone

if cold bluing is your goal you can get a so so job but with better protection of the surface but could that could be done with a top gun protector

now the stock is another thing altogether again a pro job will not be cheap but without one the other seems a bit silly

so money is no problem but a better quality 300 and shot the one you have

it a problem that many have and cause us to set on a fence not really knowing which side to just to, I myself would leave it or maybe I would fix it, you see the problem it is hard to jump of the fence

in any case good luck

mike


 
My feeling, this is your FWB 300. Do what you want to enjoy the gun. A good rebluing job may or may not hurt future sale price so why worry about it, just enjoy the gun. Balistol applied to all the metal parts will ward off that rusting and you may not still get the rust from handling after you wipe it down a few times. Just shoot it and enjoy it. IMHO.
 
Ed

I use Glenrock Blue from Wyoming for rebluing. I've done several restorations on high end guns and it hasn't affected the value. Glenrock does an unbelievable job. However, disassembly is req
1569501043_14399924305d8caf73230736.19077786_IMG_20170113_083518783.jpg
uired by you.

In so far as the stock, ask around and see who does refinishing. It isn't too bad if they don't disturb the checkering. If you end up having to do it, it can become costly fast!

Here is a pic of a couple I ad completely redone. All new internals too. Scott Blair from Airguntunes.com did all the work other than bluing.
 
I bought my 300S Tyro recently. The pictures looked good, but upon receipt, the stock appeared to have had a couple of coats of Tru-Oil on it. As far as I'm concerned, the oil enhanced the wood to a beautiful sheen and I probably would have done the same thing. Further, the buttplate was not original (but better IMO) and the blueing was more worn than the pictures showed. Did this affect the value? I doubt it. I have a friend who is an avid collector. The only guns that truly are collectible are the ones in original condition (like new) along with the original box and papers. Ours, I believe, may not be as desirable from that standpoint, but so what. Make your rifle look as nice as you would like it and enjoy shooting it. Collectibles are safe queens.

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1569505834_18795604905d8cc22a467b64.44553621_Comb Stock.jpg


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I have never changed the bluing on a classic air rifle, Springer or otherwise. I have refinished many of the stocks.

The factory blueing on most of them is excellent. If they have some patina, and metal is showing, it just means they’ve been used. That said, the two rifles in the post above look excellent. And I’m sure reblueing enhanced their value.

You mentioned the rust was on the cocking handle. Pretty easy to replace.

After I remove surface rust, I use car wax to keep them rust free. It seems to bring the luster back out in the bluing. 

Here is a 300 and a 300S with refinished stocks, And polished up actions.

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so there is enough so far to add up the costs

hot blue 275.00 to 600.00

a professional stock refinish back to factory is going to be 250.00 to 400.00

and then the gun will have to be disassembled and reassembled at let say 150.00 to 200.00 with part or not

and there is all of the shipping to one or more craftsman

would you ever recoup much of those costs, maybe some

and you see people are both sides of the fence

my vote, just shoot it
 
jps2486, May not be original, but it looks great. Very beautiful!

Thanks for the advice all. I think, when I consider the cost, I could almost buy a pristine 300...… I will probably go the ballistol route and shoot it. It already gets noticed and it is never gonna be a "safe queen". I use it to knock down lil metal animals. I would have to get another 10m gun to continue to compete..

I was warned this would be addictive...

So here's a picture of one of my infections, the rifle in question. I made a fake moderator from one that came on my RAW. It just slips on to cover where I took the diopter off. I drilled it out to about .30 cal to avoid any interference with the crown or any clipping. The trigger measures 2 oz.

So I'll just get it it's own bottle of Ballistol and wipe it down every time.

I'm intrigued by the wax idea... I guess one can't do both that and the Ballistol….. Anyone else wax their metal?

Ed Garner

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