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Shooting rest - really necessary?

fe7565 To try and answer your original post, It is not necessary to have a a heavy cast iron front rest. Not NECESSARY being the word, Yes I own a Bald Eagle rest that I modified the by removing that glitchy cable drive to be a direct drive. I have only used it a couple of times but I am not competing in bench rest.

Now I do use a Cauldwell tack Driver bag all the time. I compete in field target, club and AAFTA grand prix's, around the easttern US. I cannot use the bags in competition but it comes in handy when traveling, to ck the rifle to make sure the rifle is still on point before the competition. 

That aside, I use it at my home range for several options. The main reason is to zero in a new scope scope. to ck the scope at each yardage, for the elevation clicks I compete at. To see how the wind effects the pellets POI. To check to see what pellet is the best per gun used, etc. To make these more precise adjustments you want to remove as much of the human factor as possible. $750 to $1000+ mechanical rest is not necessary for this..(Although it would be nice! Just not necessary)

In bench rest shooting, they really are trying to be as precise as possible to hit the little tiny holes to score. Again I don't shoot bench rest and will not say that the better the equipment the better the skill.I tried it with the Tack Driver bag and my best was a 740 8x....That score would not be competitive in a serious match.

You stated you use a "Rifle Hold"... Are you using a springer? If so you are doing something great to make those groups at 100 yards...even the 50 yards. I would think that resting a springer on rest would affect the rifle hold or Artillery Hold as it was called in my days in the USMC. 

So basically it is what works for you. I personally find the heavy and long Tack Driver bag with a rabbit ear or flat bag rear, to be very stable and a useful tool. Also, you shoot indoors at 100 yards? And you are not at a clubs you stated? NICE! I wish I had that available. An old chicken house or something to cut the wind would be sweet to get accurate readings on what the gun is doing downrange. I have a concrete covered two bench setup, on a 100 yard range. The yardages are marked by asphalt cores in the ground,with the distances painted on them. But I do have the wind to contend with sometimes... Try the Cauldwell Tack Driver bag or the like. They are inexpensive on Amazon.com. Good luck
 
Thank you @strikefast for the wealth of information. As you described, a shooting rest does have a role even if not for competing...but to set a baseline (the human factor removed) from which baseline to practice for the wind, rifle hold, etc. I will keep an eye out for a a used or discounted big boys' rest, but I see now that it's not necessary and inexpensive rests work just fine for most purposes.

I wish I had my own indoor 100 yards range, or even an outdoor private range like you...I would spend most of my free time there :) About 45mins away there is a new state fo the art indoor public shooting complex and became a member there. Came out much cheaper than the traditional gun and fishing clubs and no wait... So, one would say I am learning my PCP rifles and my own skills near idyllic conditions. I do miss the outdoors, but where I am near DC it's hard to find a place to hide from the politically correct anti-gun crowd and local laws.

I only have PCPs...my last springer was a RWS 54 AirKing about 10 years ago... The reason I mentioned the rifle-hold because recently I was shooting at the 100 yard indoor range from a sand bag front and back testing various pellets. Just for fun on the third group I changed from my usual casual/easy rifle-hold to a death-grip-hold on the rifle while squeezing the trigger and the group dramatically narrowed to near one inch from 2-3 inch groups. Then I went back to my usual easy-hold for the fourth group and it opened back up again. Now...I know that things are not this simple to solve grouping issues, but it certainly had to do something with the human factor. Semper fi!

 
I have an FX Impact .22 (just added a .25 barrel today from Tominco), a Vulcan .25, a Mutant .22, an Airwolf .22 MVT, and a AAS410 Classic. Been awhile since I used the Airwolf and the S410, albeit the MVT is my favorite. These groups are some early tests with the Vulcan .25 when I was testing the 3 JSB versions to see which is best at 100 yards. Seems to like the Kings best, fairly consistent half inch groups at 50 yards, but for 100 yards the jury is still out.
 
unionrdr, I am confused that someone told you to not hold the rifle tight unless you are shooting a springer. If shooting off a set of bags, the rifle should be in between the ears of the front bag and then the scope brought on target with the hand on the rear bag. After the scope is on the target and centered , then the rear hand would grip the butt stock to keep the sight picture. The trigger is squeezed gently, as to not knock you off the point of aim. Now in bench rest, the shooter uses the small front eared bag to grip the gun a bit to keep it steady. This is done by tightening the mechanical ears of the rest. they close the bags ears like a mini vise. After that they align the scope on target from the rear. To fire the gun, they just keep all body parts away from the gun and trip the extremely light trigger to make the shot. Then the process starts all over again.

The key there is consistency!. If you are going to be accurate you need to be consistent in your form, hold of the rifle, and trigger release. It is the same with shooting a bow, taking off hand shots, throwing an axe / knife, shooting a slingshot, throwing a spear, etc .Well you get the picture.

You will need to have as firm a grip of the rifle on the bag, that will allow you to control the rifle to make the shot in the same position for each shot. There are other factors to take care of to improve accuracy too. Finding the right pellet, in weight, head size, lubrication or not, etc. Then there is the outside factors. Temperature, wind, heat mirage, altitude, and the like.

The hold and your grip are the easiest and fairly critical things that affect accuracy, and are the easiest to fix. You can start with a decent front bag available most anywhere. Look at Amazonn.com, even if you don't buy theer, they have a load of the bags to look at and get the reviews from buyers. The Caldwell Tack Driver bag was my choice and what I use. There is the Bull Bag, Uncle Mikes, and others to look at.

Here is a 10 shot group that I did in light wind from, my concrete bench, at 55 yards. I was just seeing how well the 10.34 grain lubed pellets were going to work for me in field target competition. Shot from a Steyer LG110 Ft rifle. The dot is 3/4" 

Uploaded at Snapagogo.com
 
That's correct for a springer. I did state that in the first sentence in my post above.

You can put your hand/arm on the bag between it and the rifle to in effect make the artillery hold. I have an HW97k that I just put on the front bag and hold the butt stock loosely on a flat sand bag with my hand.

I have shot groups nearly as tight like the one I showed in the above post, but at 30 yards sighting in. I never tried it out at longer ranges.

I have the gun with David Slade to get his tune and to take it to 12 FPE so I can try Springer WFTF.
 
You can try different methods and adopt what ever gives you the best accuracy. It also depends on what you bought the gun for.

Plinking cans and spinner targets, would be my guess. Pest control too. Competition like bench rest or field target I would suggest a gun designed for that purpose. Cost is a factor there however.
 
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Excellent group @strikefast....very clean and no question what the rifle (and shooter) is capable of doing.

Rifle hold does make a difference even when using a rest or bi-pod, etc. The problem is that I do not approach my informal target shooting sessions with a good plan where I would try various setups and take notes so later I can narrow down what worked and what didn't.. I know it sounds nerdy and tedious, but I tried such approach with pellet sorting/weighing/head sizing and started to get somewhere. However, the more you learn...the more you realize that there are so many more things to be learned and understood. Probably that's why is this hobby so challenging.

I was watching the national benchrest shooters video and they all had their complex heavy shooter rest. I think I will go for one of the Bald Eagle rests in the $150-200 range without the windage (since shooting indoors) just to satisfy my curiosity and to remove as much as possible myself from the equation, I am not planning to compete -none of my rifles are benchrest or FT types- just want to find a way to see how well they shoot without my input. Adding a bench rest will not result in magical groups but hope to lead to more consistency.,
 
"strikefast"fe7565 To try and answer your original post, It is not necessary to have a a heavy cast iron front rest. Not NECESSARY being the word, Yes I own a Bald Eagle rest that I modified the by removing that glitchy cable drive to be a direct drive. I have only used it a couple of times but I am not competing in bench rest.

Now I do use a Cauldwell tack Driver bag all the time. I compete in field target, club and AAFTA grand prix's, around the easttern US. I cannot use the bags in competition but it comes in handy when traveling, to ck the rifle to make sure the rifle is still on point before the competition. 


I have a number of front rests but for me like "strikefast" posted. I use a Caldwell tackdriver bag for benching my springers. I just let the rifle rest in the bag and have it firm against my shoulder. For other rifles I use an assortment of front rests.