Shoebox kinda failure - aka: crapage

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hitech - one other thing. You may want to invest in the high pressure side oil/water separator filter. The Shoebox does tend to pass a good amount of the silicone oil all the way through. I learned only a few drops of oil on the felt pads every 10 hours. I was getting some water/oil in the bleed until I got a high pressure filter. Just some chinese one off ebay or amazon with a bunch of replacement filters, one every 100 hours. It takes a little longer to build pressure due to the air space in the filter, but my bleeds have been completely dry with no water or oil.
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Thanks Sean. I'll definitely look into getting a oil/water separator. I have noticed a little silicone coming out of the foster connection on the shoebox if I run it under no load with the bleed valve open. Not a lot though, but it did have me thinking about a filter. I'll start looking for one, should have done it a while ago anyways. Thanks.
 
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#1 - just learned McMaster Carr is 1 day ground shipping to me. yay!

#2 - got the new bushings this morning. 

Shoebox repair - 1.1605040915.jpeg


I don't think the original ones are brass. Still not sure on the metal.

The brass ones fit the bar perfectly, but the center hole was a bit small for the drive shafts. Enlarged a tiny bit with a round file and installed and working fine.
 
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OK - not working fine. The pressure switch appears to be cutting off at 4000psi now. Has anyone else had to increase the setting on their pressure switch over time? I might need to order a new one - I believe NorthShore Compressor sells them but they're like $150. Over 3 or so years of ownership I've had to nudge up the pressure switch about 3-4 times as it started only filling to ~4200-4300 psi.

EDIT: So it might not be the pressure switch. With some testing it appears to stop building pressure once it hits 4000psi. I'll strip it tomorrow and rebuild the high-side cylinder. 
 
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Can't remember the right hex wrench size, but there's an adjustment through the hole in the back between the two electrical leads. (Be sure to unplug it or expect a shock if the hex wrench touches one of the leads even when powered off). 

I adjust mine by attaching the fill hose to a tank but not opening it so the only space to fill up is the microbore hose. Makes setting the pressure pretty easy. 
 
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Just rebuilt both cylinders and still it stops making pressure at 4000psi. Open to thoughts.

Nevermind - I am stupid. I was connected to a tank with a check valve that needed more air. Reconnected to a 3L tank with a standard twist valve and it's working great. Just re-adjusting the pressure switch cutoff to 4500 psi and then hopefully good for another 100 hours.
 
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Was topping off my 9L tank last night with my Shoebox which has been getting a workout since getting my Leshiy 2. There's been a light squeak coming from it for a while now, but last night I came down and the noises I was hearing just stank of something not good happening. Took it apart this morning to find the common wear part of the bushing on the small drive piece with the two bushings. 

Shoebox - 1.1604937758.jpeg


Thankfully the hole on the bar is still nice and round so I'll start looking around for a new bushing that will fit.

In the meantime I noticed the bushing on the right has almost no wear. I simply knocked out that bushing and replaced it in the location of the worn on. Then I took the worn bushing and placed it at the other end with the worn part to the top as it appears the stress in the motion is more side to side rather than up and down. Running smoothly for now.
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I had the same problem with my F10 a while ago. I shared a few emails with Tom Kaye at Shoebox trying to identify the cause. My connecting rod was actually “walking off” the crank shaft pin as it ran. The root cause of the problem was that the pin on the crank shaft, that rides in the connecting rod bearing, was not welded parallel to the main shaft of the crank shaft that rides in the flange bearing in the main air block. I’m guessing they were a degree or so out of parallel with each other. Nothing to great, but over time it caused excessive wear on that bearing.

I actually exasperated the problem when I had to remove the main air block to replace the oring(item 13 on the parts diagram)on the high pressure ball bearing vent. I didn’t get the main air block realigned perfectly and made the problem with the crank shaft even worse. I ended up getting a replacement crank shaft. This along with very careful realignment fixed my problem. I have about 100 hours of runtime since making this fix and all seems perfect with it.
 
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