Sheridan Sheridan Pre-C Series Repair Advice Requested

[DonR]

pwcosol, a couple notes to your recent posts:
- The new 'button' style check valve is a direct replacement for the older 'flat washer' style.
- The smaller nose on your new exhaust valve won't be a problem; when everything is assembled the spring and valve will line up fine.
- I agree with others that the grey surface you think is plastic, is actually the old lead valve-body seal.
- Before I acquired a valve remover similar to the one mentioned in post #16, I just placed a pin punch though the hole of the simple tool and tapped it rearward with my trusty plastic hammer to coax out sticky valves. The threaded tool makes the job immensely easier, pulling them out trauma-free.

Don R.

 

[cvarcher]

one thing you might want to do is clean the step inside the tube where that seal sat. IF theres any old seal left sticking on that step could lead to leakage. I kind of forgot the size but 3/8" wooden dowel diameter sounds right with a little 200 grit sandpaper attached to the end of the dowel makes a good cleaning tool. Should fit over the step and then you just twist back and forth a little bit. It will sand down to a clean ledge where the lead or delrin seal goes.l. When done swab and rinse out with acetone and alcohol all the insides of that tube. string all those parts as you saw in the image from the above post onto your tool.angled alittle up so they stay in place and guide it all back in . When it comes to a stop you will need to push down or into the tube to compress the spring and start grabbing a thread for the nut to grab. Go slow and feel carefully that the nut is in fact starting right on a thread. after you get so many turns in you can snug it down firmly.I just use a metal dowel thru the T hole of the tool for leverage. When setting the pump if you have those adjustable piston rods again memory thinking it may be 7 3/8" long piston rod fro cup edge to bottom . I use a metal rod 1/8 or 3/16th od thru the front hle that the pump linkage attaches to to temorarily allow the pump to go open and closed. Yu want that length to make the pump close with the wood handle still about an inch from fully closed position. So that slight pressure will snap the grip handle closed. Hope this makes some sense. I did mention to you that there are many generic like parts out there fittig the sheridan but really only the ones that follow the original size of the model C work the best. YEs the exhaust spring is tapered. The intake seal is brass with a rubber seal in it ,dont worry if theres no middle nub. Ive seen all white delrin checkvalves too. Ive also seen several washers in between but should only be one if all lengths are to spec. Many variations on the exhaust valve. Try to pick the longest one . I personally like the teflon (or is it delrin white seal over the lead seal . With a chrony 2 pumps and a JSB 13.7gr 20 caliber pellet (best one to use) should clock 350-380fps. AND 8 pumps shot out should leave no residual air as checked by recocking and shooting again without pumping .

 

[pwcosol]

You guys are the best! When I got the check valve out found some slightly sticky, tar-like residue in the area. Also found what seemed like a granular black crud between that small brass washer and underside of the crown on the release valve. My thought it was some long deteriorated rubber "O" ring. Yet, that tar-like substance seems to only be in a few places, with the rest nice and clean. The pump tube was close to spotless so makes me wonder how it got into the air chamber. Will definitely give it the acetone/alcohol bath. I did note on the right side of the rear end cap with safety, where it meets the pump tube, a spot where someone did a bit of prying to ease it out. Perhaps I am not the first to get into the rifle since it left the factory (which might explain a lot). Lastly, attached pics of the completed valve remover/puller. Found one SAE eye bolt just large enough to re-thread to the metric size I needed and then cut a access into the loop. Got about 1/16 inch clearance between valve tool nut end and eyebolt, which swings up or down with no interference. Next time I pull a valve, it should come away with relative ease...

 

[Revoman]

Enginuity at its finest!
nicely done!

mike