I need your help guys, I pump the rifle without cooking it, and of course did not fire, I did not hear the hissing sound because of the loud music , then, I cooked it and again pump 12 times and now the rifle won't shoot, it makes the triggering sound and you notice that the trigger mechanism is working but no release of pressure, I would like to dismount and fix it, but i need to bleed the pressure out and do not know how to do it, could anyone help me with instructions or any YouTube video or something like that, I am an old guy that need help.. Thanks in advance...
Seneca/Sam Yang Seneca dragonfly mk2 , pumps pressure but do not shot
- Thread starter Hector 51
- Start date
The Dragonfly must be cocked to fire otherwise it will not store air pressure. Pull the bolt back and close it. It can be un-cocked too so you can store it with 3 pumps.
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Then , I cocked it and pump it 12 times and pressure was built up , but then it does not fire now, the trigger mechanism is working but it does not release the pressure to produce the shot. I want to troubleshoot it , but first I want to know how to bleed out the pressure, I do not want it to explode on me. do you know how to bleed it? Thanks for your response.
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Yes please, I have been all around and no one has been able to provide that info, I have been ,through YouTube, google and wrote to air Venturi Tech, but I think they do not work on W/E.
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it would be hard to get to the valve stem to see if indeed the rifle still has air in it by smacking the valve stem
the breech would have to come off the hammer removed and that sort of thing
tell me these are easier to charge and at some point, the resistance gets harder and now is it at that point or is it like the first pump
if all the air leaks out before you pull the trigger it will just go click
when was the last time you oil the wiper for the cylinder
the breech would have to come off the hammer removed and that sort of thing
tell me these are easier to charge and at some point, the resistance gets harder and now is it at that point or is it like the first pump
if all the air leaks out before you pull the trigger it will just go click
when was the last time you oil the wiper for the cylinder
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Thanks for answer , the resistance is really hard , the system was oiled previously with Pellgun oil , I am pretty confident that it has a lot of pressure, the firing system, seems to work, and I mean for that, that you pull the trigger and feel the hammer moving but no firing, again, this happened after put several pumps without cocking the system, then , after I realized that, I cock it, about 10 times and after that, the problem started. I am willing to dismount, but afraid of an explosion or something like that, believed me, it has a lot of pressure, BTW, if there is any video of how to dismount the rifle?
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Thank you sir, I even knock it with a small piece of wood at the same time i activate the trigger to see if there are something stuck, but no luck, I also have people from Air Venturi helping me , but nothing yet, they ask me if I "Turned" the barrel, but the only error from me was to pump it without cocking it . Do not understand the term "turned" barrel.
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They explained to me, but it could not happened. I was checking the rifle very thoroughly and now it seems like the problem is, that is not charging at all, the hardness , I think is not because is full of pressure, is because the charging system is broken somewhere and is very hard to move. I am contacting Venturi to ship it for repairs, Sorry for the confusion, it was my fault not to inspect it more carefully, Lesson learned, Thank for this great support...
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question
if you pull the cocking all the way forward con you see the piston head Oring and or the piston head
the gun is all Snowpeak same maker as the Diana chaser and other
so, the gun is modular
you have the upper section breech and barrel sights and that part
you have all of the cocking linkage and the stock
then you have the tube back cap, spring, hammer and in front of that the valve
so now you set all of that aside and what do you have left the piston head
most of the parts have nothing to do with not producing air
and will not be your problem
the piston head is my guess the why is an unknown
in reality it is an easy rifle to work on but there are many parts to deal with and i am not sure how the piston head works the diagram appears to show a piston head that takes an Oring but no Oring is shown part 55 looks like the wiper, part 53 is a question
but in the end if you don't have the confidence send it in
if you pull the cocking all the way forward con you see the piston head Oring and or the piston head
the gun is all Snowpeak same maker as the Diana chaser and other
so, the gun is modular
you have the upper section breech and barrel sights and that part
you have all of the cocking linkage and the stock
then you have the tube back cap, spring, hammer and in front of that the valve
so now you set all of that aside and what do you have left the piston head
most of the parts have nothing to do with not producing air
and will not be your problem
the piston head is my guess the why is an unknown
in reality it is an easy rifle to work on but there are many parts to deal with and i am not sure how the piston head works the diagram appears to show a piston head that takes an Oring but no Oring is shown part 55 looks like the wiper, part 53 is a question
but in the end if you don't have the confidence send it in
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Venturi is checking if the rifle is still under warranty, It's seems to be straight forward, but for this time I will send it. I think the problem is on the area below the 44 number.
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well, that is the valve part 44 are the Orings that keep the valve from leaking in the tube
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I think so, the guys from Ventri just communicated that the rifle is still on warranty, so ,I will look for material to make a box today and ship the rifle, the techs will determined if the fault was mine or rifle wise in order to charge or not the repair, wish me luck.... I am willing to pay, I like this rifle a lot , the Iguanas does not, ja..Thanks for the support. Like this forum.
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Definitely post the end result when you do the deal and get it back ..
Like all's well warranty covered it all
Or
Claimed user abuse and charged you full amount for parts , labor , and shipping .
Inquiring minds like to know ..
Like all's well warranty covered it all
Or
Claimed user abuse and charged you full amount for parts , labor , and shipping .
Inquiring minds like to know ..
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I am willing to bet, that the very small set screw on the bottom of the trigger, (very hard to see) is loose and has moved in/shortened (part # 39) .
If so, then when the trigger is pulled, it will NOT move the sear (Part # 36) enough to release the hammer, when cocked.
This set screw can be adjusted to effect the trigger pull movement.
Make sure that this setscrew is Blue Loctited before final assembly,
to stop any movement..
To see this set screw, take a strong beamed flashlite and look under the bottom trigger and sear part.
You can see the end of the set screw bearing against the sear arm..
To have access to this set screw, pull the trigger and insert a proper size nail between the pressure tube and the end of the sear, (there is a small hole/space there), release the trigger to hold the nail in place.
Then very carefully remove the trigger pin (part # 34), the pin closest to the long safety nose/part. After removal of this pin, the trigger will slide forward
and you can adjust this set screw LONGER for proper release of the sear.
Caution, all these pin are loose and can fall out and get lost, (4 out of the 5 rifles I have) have been loose.
Use Blue loctite/finger nail polish to retain them in the trigger housing,
and or very lightly smash the end flat. enough to move the metal (one side only), then carefully seat the pin flush with the housing, to hold the pin there..
To see photo's and more information about this trigger, see information/photo's here:
yrmv
If so, then when the trigger is pulled, it will NOT move the sear (Part # 36) enough to release the hammer, when cocked.
This set screw can be adjusted to effect the trigger pull movement.
Make sure that this setscrew is Blue Loctited before final assembly,
to stop any movement..
To see this set screw, take a strong beamed flashlite and look under the bottom trigger and sear part.
You can see the end of the set screw bearing against the sear arm..
To have access to this set screw, pull the trigger and insert a proper size nail between the pressure tube and the end of the sear, (there is a small hole/space there), release the trigger to hold the nail in place.
Then very carefully remove the trigger pin (part # 34), the pin closest to the long safety nose/part. After removal of this pin, the trigger will slide forward
and you can adjust this set screw LONGER for proper release of the sear.
Caution, all these pin are loose and can fall out and get lost, (4 out of the 5 rifles I have) have been loose.
Use Blue loctite/finger nail polish to retain them in the trigger housing,
and or very lightly smash the end flat. enough to move the metal (one side only), then carefully seat the pin flush with the housing, to hold the pin there..
To see photo's and more information about this trigger, see information/photo's here:
Seneca Dragonfly Mark 2 multi-pump rifle: Part eight | Blog | Pyramyd AIR
Well, the Dragonfly Mark 2 trigger is fixed. I have a lot to tell you about today, so let’s get started.
www.pyramydair.com
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