Parts for the Lightning compressor are in route, and after I rebuild the HPA cylinder to 100% my Lightning is going up for sale.
i wanted to say a big thanks to JKING for all his assistance this far on rebuilding of the Lightning-
SCORE!!
- Thread starter Bigragu
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Parts for the Lightning compressor are in route, and after I rebuild the HPA cylinder to 100% my Lightning is going up for sale.
i wanted to say a big thanks to JKING for all his assistance this far on rebuilding of the Lightning-
That is quite a score and step up from the Lightning. I subscribed to your post, what was the cause of your problem with the Lightning? Was it avoidable? Would love to know how Hatsan responded? Thanks.
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Yeah, Big Ragu.,, when I was shopping around for a compressor, you were highly recommending the Hatsan, and when I couldn't get them to return phone calls or emails, you were still supporting them as being "too busy". With them only about 85 miles from me here, if they had been even remotely responsive I probably would have gone with them for the localized support. Having been in sales all my life, when a company won't communicate with me, it's usually not good news, and that's why I dropped them from my search.
What was the problem you had and why are you bailing?
What was the problem you had and why are you bailing?
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I replaced all piston rings, o rings, cleaned out check valves(two total, one at the high pressure output line at the top of the HPA cylinder, and one at the entry into the desiccant block your fill whip is attached to) and switched out the check valve springs, and still no movement of air pressure. The most it got up to and stopped was at 1000 psi, and that took 1/2 hour to get to.
the upper cap of the HPA houses the water jacket, and when removed it has an internal shaft that the piston moves thru. I have a feeling the inside bore of that shaft has worn, causing not a tight seal with the piston rings.
So, along with a new seal kit, piston rings, I ordered the entire HPA cylinder, from the paper gasket up, thru tuxingcn.com. Total cost with shipping was $63.
So, LLeon, basically all the shiny aluminum parts on the top of the HPA cylinder closest to the coolant fan can be bought as an entire assembly, already put together with now hard pressure line fittings, check valve, o rings, for $45. I picked up a fresh o ring kit and a pack of 10 piston rings to total up to the $63.
If you look really close at that shaft, you can see the edge of it all butchered up like a bad crown on your rifle.
I am am not an expert, lol, but JKING has taught me so much. Such a patient guy! Thank you, JKING!
the upper cap of the HPA houses the water jacket, and when removed it has an internal shaft that the piston moves thru. I have a feeling the inside bore of that shaft has worn, causing not a tight seal with the piston rings.
So, along with a new seal kit, piston rings, I ordered the entire HPA cylinder, from the paper gasket up, thru tuxingcn.com. Total cost with shipping was $63.
So, LLeon, basically all the shiny aluminum parts on the top of the HPA cylinder closest to the coolant fan can be bought as an entire assembly, already put together with now hard pressure line fittings, check valve, o rings, for $45. I picked up a fresh o ring kit and a pack of 10 piston rings to total up to the $63.
If you look really close at that shaft, you can see the edge of it all butchered up like a bad crown on your rifle.
I am am not an expert, lol, but JKING has taught me so much. Such a patient guy! Thank you, JKING!
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Glad to help Augie. That appears to be the "Benford 1000 Yong Heng/Hatsan/Air Venturi Magnum".... Haha, I really hope not and I'm proud to see that you got a great machine there.
Jimmy
Jimmy
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Thank you Bigragu and jking, for taking the time to help the mechanically challenged. I have bookmarked this thread for future use. Again thank you gentlemen.
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Congrats on the Alkin. The local one around me that the guy wants way too much money for was made in 2004 and had a serial number of 9435$$. Does yours still run like a champ?
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It topped off my tank from 3400 to 4500 in 5 minutes. The guy I bought it from filled his tank, a 6.8 liter, from zero to 4500 in 20 minutes and so many seconds(showed me his phone timer).
what impressed me was at 4300 he thought the tank was full so he turned the switch off, saw that he had been mistaken, and re started the compressor, while the entire system was fully pressurized. It started without missing a beat, shaking, sputtering, none of that.
That move right there would have locked up my Lightning and or possibly blown some type of fuse. Not bagging on the Lightning for that, as I knew when I bought it it said in the instructions all air must be purged from system before a restart. But, ignorant me, I thought all HPA compressors were that way.
what impressed me was at 4300 he thought the tank was full so he turned the switch off, saw that he had been mistaken, and re started the compressor, while the entire system was fully pressurized. It started without missing a beat, shaking, sputtering, none of that.
That move right there would have locked up my Lightning and or possibly blown some type of fuse. Not bagging on the Lightning for that, as I knew when I bought it it said in the instructions all air must be purged from system before a restart. But, ignorant me, I thought all HPA compressors were that way.
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To LLeon and other Hatsan lightning owners- keep an eye on your oil color. Mine was amsoil, and was crystal clear when new. When drained after the first year it had only a slight tint of brown, and my coolant was still normal looking of what used coolant looks like.
About a month or so ago, long before the system failure, I had noticed my new coolant mix darker than normal, and my new oil was totally brown. I had about 5.5 hours on this new oil and coolant, whereas the liquids from the first change had around 9 hours of use. That’s the only thing different that I’ve noticed, when trying to decipher why it failed. Like I mentioned in my other thread, there were no signs that I saw that led to this, but now I’m thinking excessive blow by making it back to the oil and maybe the aluminum head pieces became porous and allowed tainting of my coolant.
if the new parts completely get this back up and running like it was brand new again, that just tells me knowing what I now know, the HPA cylinder should be disassembled and all new parts installed each and every year, for sure as preventative maintenance.
im going to post up the o ring sizes that Tuxing gave me, so if you want to order up o rings from the numerous o ring vendors you can use this to stock up on maintenance parts. Just keep in mind on the metric sizes called out, the first number given is the OUTSIDE DIAMETER and the second number is the CROSS SECTION THICKNESS of the o ring. I had to verify with Tuxing if the first number was ID or OD because where I like to order o rings, that vendor uses the ID as the first number. Example- oringsandmore.com uses the first number to list ID, second number is thickness. For the “A” set of O rings I would order 52mm x 2.5mm.
i also asked Tuxing what material type were the green colored o rings, and they said Viton.
Lastly, the O rings labeled H are for the top four cap bolts that seal the water jacket cap. After you cinch down those cap bolts, those o rings are basically cut up and trashed, so out of all the o rings shown in this pic, the H ones you want a lot more than just four, in case you have to re open that cap.
About a month or so ago, long before the system failure, I had noticed my new coolant mix darker than normal, and my new oil was totally brown. I had about 5.5 hours on this new oil and coolant, whereas the liquids from the first change had around 9 hours of use. That’s the only thing different that I’ve noticed, when trying to decipher why it failed. Like I mentioned in my other thread, there were no signs that I saw that led to this, but now I’m thinking excessive blow by making it back to the oil and maybe the aluminum head pieces became porous and allowed tainting of my coolant.
if the new parts completely get this back up and running like it was brand new again, that just tells me knowing what I now know, the HPA cylinder should be disassembled and all new parts installed each and every year, for sure as preventative maintenance.
im going to post up the o ring sizes that Tuxing gave me, so if you want to order up o rings from the numerous o ring vendors you can use this to stock up on maintenance parts. Just keep in mind on the metric sizes called out, the first number given is the OUTSIDE DIAMETER and the second number is the CROSS SECTION THICKNESS of the o ring. I had to verify with Tuxing if the first number was ID or OD because where I like to order o rings, that vendor uses the ID as the first number. Example- oringsandmore.com uses the first number to list ID, second number is thickness. For the “A” set of O rings I would order 52mm x 2.5mm.
i also asked Tuxing what material type were the green colored o rings, and they said Viton.
Lastly, the O rings labeled H are for the top four cap bolts that seal the water jacket cap. After you cinch down those cap bolts, those o rings are basically cut up and trashed, so out of all the o rings shown in this pic, the H ones you want a lot more than just four, in case you have to re open that cap.
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And a very nice score at that. I would be happy to do some wiring for one of those for sure. Congrats on your score.
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Get score!!!
No worries for you anymore. As far as wiring 220V's go must folks forget their stove and dryer are on 220 circuits. Depending on where your dryer is located some times a simple heavy duty extension cord is all that's needed.
No worries for you anymore. As far as wiring 220V's go must folks forget their stove and dryer are on 220 circuits. Depending on where your dryer is located some times a simple heavy duty extension cord is all that's needed.
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thats the way to go..congrats
And I agree Jimmy King..terrific person..all ways there for me.
And I agree Jimmy King..terrific person..all ways there for me.
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I’m already planning an electrical circuit for this, and the finished outlet will be just around 3’ under my garage 100 amp sub panel. I still have room for one more breaker, lol, so it should be easy peasey.
From there I’m allowing myself a 10’ baloney cord, so fill ups can be out towards the middle of the garage.
From there I’m allowing myself a 10’ baloney cord, so fill ups can be out towards the middle of the garage.
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