Scope - Torquing and Lapping Rings for Accuracy...
- Thread starter azuaro
- Start date
Have your self a nice Xmas AZ 
Then put your thinking hat on !
By my count...14 paragraphs before you mention the scopes' optical centre, rush thro' the most 'basic' vertical setup arrangement.
I hear and appreciate what your saying, my friend
but also think the Horse should be in front of the Cart.
Then put your thinking hat on !
By my count...14 paragraphs before you mention the scopes' optical centre, rush thro' the most 'basic' vertical setup arrangement.
I hear and appreciate what your saying, my friend
but also think the Horse should be in front of the Cart.
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AZ
Yours is a "Counsel for Perfection" - nothing wrong with that at all ... but-) ) Show me a perfectly straight barrel ('BNIB' or unused) - it wont be perfectly straight, then show me that same barrel on a very cold day after 3-4 thousand rounds have been thro' it + a bit of general owner knockabout !
I cannot speak for 'Kris' here but I think we are on the same script... approx.
Here's my methodology -
MOUNTS
I choose good mounts/rings - I distrust those that clamp from one side (& also have 2 diff. sized clamp options). A pretty good test of any rings is to run your finger around the inner surface of the rings when they are tightened ('hand tight') off the gun. Many times you can feel a ridge between the upper & lower sections (& the Mk1 Human Finger is capable of extremely fine judgements, folks!), this tells you they are not matched or machined from one piece, then matched - you could try turning the top section or swapping with the other set, most likely it wont improve matters. SO, what to do?
Buy a set of good quality mounts in the first place - BKL get my vote but there are others (some PB rings clamp vertically).
The reason for all this is have the best possible vertical alignment of Barrel, Rifle and Scope
SCOPE
I favour a brand of mid-market Euro scopes, before they go on a rifle I optically centre them (using the mirror technique or sometimes the click method).
Using a bubble level and a plumbline I do my best to have the scope sitting correctly in the mount cradles before tightening down (diagonal bolts etc).
Now mounted into the rings I use an optical boresighter (largely out of interest, they are not essential) - I fully expect to see small variations which equate to around 1-3 "clicks" in both Windage & Elevation from scope to scope. I also do a 'dry run' Box Test using the boresighter, if OK, I then properly establish the Zero by actual firing (remember that !) When the usual further adjustments are made to bring the Reticle to the Point of Impact I reset the Turrets or make a note of the settings.
Then I SHOOT the Box Test.
If all OK - I'm done & dusted !!!
(at least for a short while, monthly Zero checks are advisable).
In my view a lot can be put down to "BELIEF" in your setup, if you lack confidence in 1 area (of equipment) then ...
Yours is a "Counsel for Perfection" - nothing wrong with that at all ... but
-) ) Show me a perfectly straight barrel ('BNIB' or unused) - it wont be perfectly straight, then show me that same barrel on a very cold day after 3-4 thousand rounds have been thro' it + a bit of general owner knockabout !I cannot speak for 'Kris' here but I think we are on the same script... approx.
Here's my methodology -
MOUNTS
I choose good mounts/rings - I distrust those that clamp from one side (& also have 2 diff. sized clamp options). A pretty good test of any rings is to run your finger around the inner surface of the rings when they are tightened ('hand tight') off the gun. Many times you can feel a ridge between the upper & lower sections (& the Mk1 Human Finger is capable of extremely fine judgements, folks!), this tells you they are not matched or machined from one piece, then matched - you could try turning the top section or swapping with the other set, most likely it wont improve matters. SO, what to do?
Buy a set of good quality mounts in the first place - BKL get my vote but there are others (some PB rings clamp vertically).
The reason for all this is have the best possible vertical alignment of Barrel, Rifle and Scope
SCOPE
I favour a brand of mid-market Euro scopes, before they go on a rifle I optically centre them (using the mirror technique or sometimes the click method).
Using a bubble level and a plumbline I do my best to have the scope sitting correctly in the mount cradles before tightening down (diagonal bolts etc).
Now mounted into the rings I use an optical boresighter (largely out of interest, they are not essential) - I fully expect to see small variations which equate to around 1-3 "clicks" in both Windage & Elevation from scope to scope. I also do a 'dry run' Box Test using the boresighter, if OK, I then properly establish the Zero by actual firing (remember that !) When the usual further adjustments are made to bring the Reticle to the Point of Impact I reset the Turrets or make a note of the settings.
Then I SHOOT the Box Test.
If all OK - I'm done & dusted !!!
(at least for a short while, monthly Zero checks are advisable).
In my view a lot can be put down to "BELIEF" in your setup, if you lack confidence in 1 area (of equipment) then ...
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Dang, I just bought a Wheeler Engineering level, level, level kit and followed the instructions on the included DVD. I did have to lap that $12 set of UTG rings to get enough contact area and to improve alignment. But those are $12 rings on a springer. Re temps 82 degrees today with similar RH in central Louisiana.
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Why do they bother to put windage and elevation adjustments on scopes then? Why not just make them centered and non-adjustable? Force you to use adjustable rings?
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BigTinBoat - the situation you imagine there (no internal adj.) actually applied for approx 100 years !
Some very fine quality sniper scopes relied entirely upon external adjustable mounts - please note ADJUSTABLE.
I'm afraid AZ exists in another world to me (anyway), as I said before I EXPECT to make regular 'corrections' to my rifle scopes over time and rely upon the repeatability factor even though I mainly use First Focal Plane scopes.
Some very fine quality sniper scopes relied entirely upon external adjustable mounts - please note ADJUSTABLE
.I'm afraid AZ exists in another world to me (anyway), as I said before I EXPECT to make regular 'corrections' to my rifle scopes over time and rely upon the repeatability factor even though I mainly use First Focal Plane scopes.
Upvote 0