Scope torque values?

[Sublimemoon0000]

Have a Benjamin Prowler and a Gamo Shadow Maxxim with bipod, both springers. What are you guys torquing your Springer scopes to?
I know the springers have hellacious recoil, so I figure it would be tighter than say a PCP or CO2.
Right now I am tightening them down snug, then a half turn on each , tight, but not stupid tight. This seems to work fine, but my OCD won't allow that I want the peace of mind knowing it's where it should be . Any help or advice is appreciated, thank you.

P.S. off topic, but check out my new sig CO2 !

 

[Hateful McNasty]

On the tube i tend to stick with scooes manufacturer recommend values..

The base.. well ive twisted a bit on them at times ..lol.

You just don't want to mash the scopes tube body..

If that value is not in the scopes paperwork you can email them for it.

Then thats just me..

 

[ThomasT]

Most mfg recommend 15 to 16 inch pounds on the cap screws ( not ft pounds ) and 30 to 35 inch pounds on the rail screws. After you shoot say 100 rounds, come back and re-check all the values.

ThomasT

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

A lot of the China (like UTG) scopes have a thin skin and can be easily damaged from over tightening the screws. I start at 15 inch lbs. Can always add if movement is detected. 30 inch lbs. on the base.

 

[Mr.H]

I try to adhere to both the ring manufactures specs and the scopes specs. Sometimes the values are different. So I default to the scopes specs, sure don't want to over tighten and crush the main tube! Many springers bases will have a stop pin enabled with a set of rings with a stop pin.

 

[Blankshot17]

Just my two cents, but I use a smidge of Anti-seize on the screws. Prevents galling, and allows even and full engagement of torque value. I apply with a fine painters tip brush or a toothpick works in a pinch. Careful cause it is messy,

 

[LRShooter6.5]

What ever you choose, I’d recommend getting som fix it sticks. They are amazing and I use them more frequently than I though I would

 

[Sublimemoon0000]

All good ideas and comments, thanks guys! I have a torque screwdriver on the way!

 

[jarmstrong]

clean and dry, clean parts with rubbing alcohol,,, using anti-seize or any lube changes the torque applied to the screw and can cause over tightening, when depending on a torque wrench in/lb values

 

[Geezerhood]

If you have a true picatinny rail, some scope rings have manufacturer specs of 60 to 65 inch pounds on the cross bolts which should help keep the rings from moving forward on a springer. Don't use that torque on a thin weaver / airgun dovetail hybrid base or you might smash it. The wider the ring is from front to back and the beefier the cross bolt / recoil lugs are the better. On my Diana 54 I installed a correct spec picatinny riser with a recoil stop on it that stopped the scope ring movement on the rail.

On the rings, I learned something years ago from Jeff Huber - the guy who put Nightforce optics on the map - if you don't have an inch pound torque wrench available then only tighten by holding the short bend end of the Allen / Torx key. Stop when it starts to hurt. For someone with average to above average finger strength you cannot apply much more 20 inch pounds to the screws with just your thumb and finger on that part of the tool without discomfort. If you put the short end in the screw head and push on the long side you can get well over enough torque to damage the scope and / or snap off the screw head.

If the scope still slips at max factory spec on the ring tops, try a six screw top ring and / or put some powdered rosin on the ring to scope mating surfaces. That will usually stop it at factory spec. If not, then try what is sometimes used on lightweight 50 BMG rifles - put a thin layer of GMS (General Motors Sealant) or brush on electricians sealant on the inside of the rings. I have never needed the sealant so I cannot tell you how difficult it might be to remove the scope from the rings.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

I agree with the replies on the ring caps 15-18 inch pounds is a pretty standard set point. The base well... You can get away with less on a pcp to say but a harsh springer may need cranking down some..lol. all that kinda comes with experance and the gun your mounting up on .

 

[maxtrouble]

15 - 16 inch pounds is the max. Always tighten scope ring screws diagonally. I use a silver sharpie pen line drawn on the back scope mount base and rifle below the dovetail. That way I can see any scope creep with a quick glance.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

15 - 16 inch pounds is the max. Always tighten scope ring screws diagonally. I use a silver sharpie pen line drawn on the back scope mount base and rifle below the dovetail. That way I can see any scope creep with a quick glance.

Totally agree. I use a tiny piece of blue painters tape on the scope behind one ring and one on the receiver for a while to see any movement. Usually will move the receiver tape one time because the rings settle in and then stop. The scope should not move at all.

 

[BobW]

I tend to use a bit of heavy oil on the threads and toque to 15 to 20 in/lb. Never had any problems.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

I tend to use a bit of heavy oil on the threads and toque to 15 to 20 in/lb. Never had any problems.

Toque values are dry assembly, if lube or even loctite (i think thay got a q&a thing on that) the value is lessened.. so if 18 is called for dry then 15 maybe for loctite applied or less for a lube/oil used. More or less -10%

In the end that comes down to you doing whats best for you in your own experience.