I can't get anymore elevation on my scope turret and I need it. It had worked fine ever since I put it on my Brocock Sniper. Then POA was not POI. Both mechanically and mirror zeroed my scope, took off and remounted the scope both rings and picatinny as some suggested, exactly the same problem exists. I think I am going to have to shim the scope but I don't know what set of rings to do it on. I need to add shims so my POI is much higher than it is when I max the elevation turret. I need more up. Back rings or front rings?? Seems simple but I can argue with my self the logic both ways. Just need some help from somebody who had done this and knows.
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Scope Still Not OK
- Thread starter Jim81
- Start date
Shim the back of the scope up for more elevation. I really like the Sportsmatch adjustable rings for this.
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Best to use adjustable mounts but if you don't want to then you need to shim the rear/back rings to jack up the back to point the front of the scope downwards.
You are essentially pointing the scope to where its shooting when it is optically centered or just a little lower if you want to shoot at longer distances.
You can also compensate for windage as well by adjusting the shims in the rear slightly to one side and remember you are doing this to point the scope to where your pellet is currently hitting when it is optically centered.
Some use film material, some use soda can strips. Don't tighten the rings too much or else you may risk damaging your scope tube.
I would recommend Burris Signature posalign rings with offset inserts which will not mark up your scope.
CA
You are essentially pointing the scope to where its shooting when it is optically centered or just a little lower if you want to shoot at longer distances.
You can also compensate for windage as well by adjusting the shims in the rear slightly to one side and remember you are doing this to point the scope to where your pellet is currently hitting when it is optically centered.
Some use film material, some use soda can strips. Don't tighten the rings too much or else you may risk damaging your scope tube.
I would recommend Burris Signature posalign rings with offset inserts which will not mark up your scope.
CA
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I would highly recommend NOT shimming the scope, in my experience it's too easy to damage the scope. I like adjustable scope rings they won't put your scope tube in a bind. I've used a few my favorite are the sportsmatch adjustable rings that are adjustable for elevation and windage. A bit of work to setup but once you optically center your scope, zero with the rings and you have perfection. I much prefer rings with windage adjustment, you no longer need to worry about crossover at different ranges, a center headshot at 20 yards will still be center at 100 yards.
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When you remounted your scope did you try moving the back set of rings to the front ? And at times merely moving the rings closer together or further apart on the scope tube can alter the vertical angle if there is a variance in the tube or rings..
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Be careful when shimming scope that you don,t damage scope. If the adjustment is all the way up I don't believe shimming will do the job. It's very difficult to hold poi with the scope adjusted all the way up. Really need to keep the scope adjusted from the middle down to keep tension on scope internals.
I use utg dnto6 scope rail for up to 19 in of elevation at 20 yes, with low rings to compensate for the additional height.
I use utg dnto6 scope rail for up to 19 in of elevation at 20 yes, with low rings to compensate for the additional height.
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Be careful when shimming scope that you don,t damage scope. If the adjustment is all the way up I don't believe shimming will do the job. It's very difficult to hold poi with the scope adjusted all the way up. Really need to keep the scope adjusted from the middle down to keep tension on scope internals.
I use utg dnto6 scope rail for up to 19 in of elevation at 20 yes, with low rings to compensate for the additional height.
I use utg dnto6 scope rail for up to 19 in of elevation at 20 yes, with low rings to compensate for the additional height.
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I read everything , I first say I agree with someone said , did you reverse the front and rear Rings ? like rotating your tires in a car . some times some Rings are not made identical I would try this , it may resolve the issue with you having alot of dialing room .
I like many here , have mounted hundreds of scopes , I never shimmed a scope since I think 20 year or longer .
Today many adjustable scope mounts and adjustable rings are available ,
For Pcp guns FX no limits , higher priced is Sports match goes to 34mm which is a bit better quality
For real guns I Like the Burris XTR Tactical rings they can go 45MOA and 20MOA wind age , with no stress on tube as they use
like 2 clam shells which are offset , They are positive even under recoil ,
Then Also I have my most rugged scope rings , but not needed for PCP , is a Barrett Posi-lock , these Hi strength steel mounds have 2 hardened pins which do 15 moa or 45moa , I have these on my PM2 ,very heavy duty good for heavy recoil calibers , where you need the best configuration
I like many here , have mounted hundreds of scopes , I never shimmed a scope since I think 20 year or longer .
Today many adjustable scope mounts and adjustable rings are available ,
For Pcp guns FX no limits , higher priced is Sports match goes to 34mm which is a bit better quality
For real guns I Like the Burris XTR Tactical rings they can go 45MOA and 20MOA wind age , with no stress on tube as they use
like 2 clam shells which are offset , They are positive even under recoil ,
Then Also I have my most rugged scope rings , but not needed for PCP , is a Barrett Posi-lock , these Hi strength steel mounds have 2 hardened pins which do 15 moa or 45moa , I have these on my PM2 ,very heavy duty good for heavy recoil calibers , where you need the best configuration
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I agree that adjustable rings are your best option. However, I understand you might not want to spend the money. Strips from a soda can do work well and if you're careful, they won't leave marks on your scope. Start with one strip in the rear, see how it goes and add more if needed. It's a simple and cheap remedy that does work if you don't want to spend money on adjustable rings. Good luck!
Stoti
Stoti
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A modest amount of shimming is fine if you pay attention to the ring torque. The M3 screws typical of most inexpensive aluminum rings can be torqued to 15 in*lbs. After doing it a few times with a torque wrench, I now apply the more expedient metric system developed in Germany, gudentite, gradually working up to the final torque by jumping diagonally from fastener to fastener.
By modest I mean up to 3 layers of shim stock cut from a soda can (typically 0.005” thick). It cuts easily with scissors. Cut the 1st one to cover 1/3 of the curvature of the ring. The 2nd one to cover 2/3 of its curvature. The 3rd one to cover the full curve. Or you can substitute a piece of electrical tape for the last one.
I do this all the time with PCPs and there is no damage to the scope tubes, even with cheaper scopes that may potentially skimp on the wall thickness or aluminum alloy.
I don’t do it on springers (heavy recoilers) however because it increases the propensity for slippage. For those, a drooper rail or eccentric inserts is a better approach.
By modest I mean up to 3 layers of shim stock cut from a soda can (typically 0.005” thick). It cuts easily with scissors. Cut the 1st one to cover 1/3 of the curvature of the ring. The 2nd one to cover 2/3 of its curvature. The 3rd one to cover the full curve. Or you can substitute a piece of electrical tape for the last one.
I do this all the time with PCPs and there is no damage to the scope tubes, even with cheaper scopes that may potentially skimp on the wall thickness or aluminum alloy.
I don’t do it on springers (heavy recoilers) however because it increases the propensity for slippage. For those, a drooper rail or eccentric inserts is a better approach.
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