Have anyone had scope rings with this mount? It will slide on an 11mm rail but the screws do not tighten them at all
Scope rings question
- Thread starter blackdiesel
- Start date
Are these BKLs? If so, try spreadind them a little bit first.
They do require quite a bit of torque.
They do require quite a bit of torque.
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Are the screws in right? They should be inserted in the side of the mount that is NOT threaded, then when they cross the "gap" they should thread into the other side of mount. If they are in correctly then they likely have the wrong bolt in them (head too small)
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The screws are in right. The mount is one piece and solid so I don't see how it's supposed to tighten up. I got hhese with a used scope I bought.
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Look at the first picture. I'm saying it's one solid piece of metal and don't seem to move when the screws are tightened.
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That's strange unless the idea is that tightening the screw bends the arms together. Is only one arm threaded with a head on the screw or do the screws just turn right through? Definitely not missing any pieces? Looks like a what's the sound of one hand clapping kind of thing.
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I was thinking that it looks like the rings are made to attach to some kind of adapter. I sent an email to the person I got the scope from to see if he knows how to use them.
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BKL are excellent rings. By design they are self centering and self aligning. The metal will bend at the cutouts and pull true.
http://www.bkltech.com/articles.asp?id=134
http://www.bkltech.com/articles.asp?id=134
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Looks strange but seems they are BKL by the pictures. I will try to clamp them with torque.
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It should be too tight to start with. Generally I have to spread them with the screws.BKL 301
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BKL ( now airforce ) makes outstanding rings. Truly centering alloy extrusion produced.
Just tighten them in steps perhaps even waiting a few minutes and re-torquing . Martin used to carry them for the RAW's when they all had the dovetail and you cant beat them on springers, as once torqued down you WILL need to use the spreader hole to remove them. They will hold on an RWS 48 with the screws removed, and are always centered. - as long as the same height - say one cantilever offset and one regular, only need one ring for your pistol scope, made in America saves shipping.
I
You can & mix & match their rings
Good score coming with a trade.
John
Just tighten them in steps perhaps even waiting a few minutes and re-torquing . Martin used to carry them for the RAW's when they all had the dovetail and you cant beat them on springers, as once torqued down you WILL need to use the spreader hole to remove them. They will hold on an RWS 48 with the screws removed, and are always centered. - as long as the same height - say one cantilever offset and one regular, only need one ring for your pistol scope, made in America saves shipping.
I
You can & mix & match their rings
Good score coming with a trade.
John
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Comments aside, any mount which requires exceeding the bending moment of the material, cannot be the stuff of champions! Making things worse, some "11 mm" dovetails aren't actually 11 mm, but closer to 10 mm. Guess what happens when you tighten them down enough so they'll hold? (sorta).
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Never, ever, had a problem with BKLs and I probably have them on a half dozen guns. Good looking, precise, and secure. They are specified for both 11mm and 3/8" (9.525mm) rails.
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"What’s a good rule of thumb to torque the base and scope rings to? "
If BKL the company recommends 35in/lbs # 12
http://www.bkltech.com/articles.asp?id=134
Depending on the rail, ... , I would highly recommend re-torquing several times as they are an extrusion and may take time to , take a set ( ? whatever one would say ).
John
If BKL the company recommends 35in/lbs # 12
http://www.bkltech.com/articles.asp?id=134
Depending on the rail, ... , I would highly recommend re-torquing several times as they are an extrusion and may take time to , take a set ( ? whatever one would say ).
John
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