Scope levels. Is it necessary?

I feel that I need to apologize for my crappy attitude in regard to this topic . I value this forum and the opinions given even if I don't agree with all that is said. but it seems lately that there has been a lot of scolding and verbal bashing of people that are just trying to ask a question, or give an opinion . I thought that this was the case, and I was wrong. We don't set up our guns in the same manor or shoot the same types of guns, use the same optics etc. A very individual and personal preference hobby. please excuse my negative behavior . I will do my best not to repeat it.
 
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OP: Scope levels. Is it necessary?

In a word, yes... Of course if you only shoot short range, or shoot long range and it doesn't matter if you hit anything, then maybe its not necessary... ;) And one more, if you only shoot on perfectly flat ground (Kansas?) then eye balling your cant is probably sufficient. But if you shoot on a slope, your eyes will deceive you. 
 
It's best if the scope is as level as possible as it can make a difference at longer ranges. You don't need an expensive scope level though just a small level to level your gun and a string or wire to hang from somewhere like a plumb bob. Level the gun and align the reticle with the line on the plumb bob you made. Tighten things up and you are golden.

Did this way for years. If your able to get the firearm perfectly vertical and align the vertical cross hair with the plumb bob string this is as good as any method.
 
OP: Scope levels. Is it necessary?

In a word, yes... Of course if you only shoot short range, or shoot long range and it doesn't matter if you hit anything, then maybe its not necessary... ;) And one more, if you only shoot on perfectly flat ground (Kansas?) then eye balling your cant is probably sufficient. But if you shoot on a slope, your eyes will deceive you.


+1 So true about shooting on side-hills. Learned shooting archery 3D and Field...but it's the same for airguns.
 
Hi I think people here are viewinghis question of wheeler system to having a level on scope or rail or built into scope or rings ,.First the Wheeler system is good I use mine alot , as I do other things likea wedge to level scope to gun but I always verify my work , to ,ake sure it is spot on. then I install my levels on scope ,

The guy here ToddGedddes63 gave another way to check level on scope by having a string or fishing line with a sinker tied on it and then confirm it lines up exact with string as a string with always be PLUMB so he is correct ,

SO yes at long ranges everything needs to be exactly plumb or forget hitting your target WHat I am talking about is If you shot say 1000 yrds for example while anyone can walk in to hit target with many shots but to understand just how much your POI will be off , say you shooting at a 72 inch target and you were spot on with your dailing or holding to hit center , but you make a mistake of being off by like *degrees you can be 40 inches off center meaning a clean miss as from center of target is 36 in at any point .

Now guys here may say well we don't shoot 1000 yds with our airguns well airguns are worse as they don't have the speed and BC of a powder burner , so example a 1000 yrd shot is about equal to a 300 yrd shot with a pcp gun .



OK here is what I use for leveling my scopes and put a level on my scopes

first to level scope to gun I use

1. Wheeler 2 clamp set up level system

2, wheeler small level magnetic

3. a string or line with a weight on it and it is attached say 6 feet in air and the weight will hold string exactly perfect

Levels for guns

1, this is my favorite it is not a bubble level it is a ball level so way more sensitive best for Long range it can be illuminater with a a tritium phosphor capsule which can be bought on line

accy.1619575596.jpg




2,any bubble level attached to rail or to scope

3 some mounts have built in bubble levels so nothing sticks out of gun , most are pricey like

SPURH , STIENER , RRS ECT

4 I own 2 scopes with built in levels inside of scope , one is my US-OPTICS B25 , the other is my thermal ATN HD THOR 5-50

LOU










 
I set these ACD up to match the crosshairs using a weighted plumb line hanging from the ceiling. If you crank the turret up and down throughout it's range while plumbing the scope then you can see if the holdover reticle is tracking true with the turret adjustment. (With the scope mounted in a fixed vice so it doesn't move at all while turning the turret knob.) If it is, you can make the scope to track perfectly vertical and the ACD becomes a permenantly mounted unit, to where the scope can be moved to any rifle and still be plumb.

As noted previously in this thread... centering the rifle barrel's bore to the scope's reticle would be the next step in ensuring there is no cant in the system for either shooting and dialing the turret or shooting and using holdover marks at any range.

https://www.amazon.com/MSP-ACD-Anti-Cant-Device-Orgianl/dp/B003IX0LGE
 
I set these ACD up to match the crosshairs using a weighted plumb line hanging from the ceiling. If you crank the turret up and down throughout it's range while plumbing the scope then you can see if the holdover reticle is tracking true with the turret adjustment. (With the scope mounted in a fixed vice so it doesn't move at all while turning the turret knob.) If it is, you can make the scope to track perfectly vertical and the ACD becomes a permenantly mounted unit, to where the scope can be moved to any rifle and still be plumb.

As noted previously in this thread... centering the rifle barrel's bore to the scope's reticle would be the next step in ensuring there is no cant in the system for either shooting and dialing the turret or shooting and using holdover marks at any range.

https://www.amazon.com/MSP-ACD-Anti-Cant-Device-Orgianl/dp/B003IX0LGE

I agree with your conclusions and it seems like it would work just fine but I differ a bit in methodology. When I try to do what you are describing, I do so by SHOOTING against that vertical and level target while tracking up and down with the elevation turret. If one does this and the scope IS level to bore AND the scope IS tracking correctly, then the shots will all fall along the vertical (assuming no wind drift, of course) while they move up and down. I believe you are describing doing the same thing but doing so VISUALLY. That might work perfectly well but I've never tried to do such because I'm shooting when I try to hit a target so I like to shoot while I'm verifying "accurate tracking". As Forest Gump might say, "one less thang".