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Scope level

I want a scope level for both my FT rifle and FT pistol. Everything I read about accuracy and long range shooting with powder burners says to have a scope level that can be seen with both eyes open while looking through the scope. Then close the non dominant eye and take the shot.

My question is, what scope level do you use and can it accomplish this task?

I do not want to level the gun, adjust my cheek weld and then take the shot. That’s too much movement for me to get things out of alignment.

I know I’m not shooting a powder burner. But I feel if I can implement their strategies for 1,000 yard shooting I can certainly improve my FT game.
 
If you have deep pockets, this one is pretty nice!

I know I’m not shooting a powder burner. But I feel if I can implement their strategies for 1,000 yard shooting I can certainly improve my FT game.
To validate your concern, cant error is proportional to the projectile's drop so it is increasingly crucial at longer ranges. And since pellets drop quickly, cant error comes into play at much shorter distances than it does with centerfire rifles. For example a 10.3gr JSB pellet will have as much cant error at 100 yards as a 30-06 will have at 400 yards. Though even at shorter distances it can still be meaningful for a discipline like field target. At 50 yards, a 2° cant angle will produce about 0.2" of lateral error for the same pellet. At 100 yards, the error grows to over 1 inch (i.e. a doubling of distance produces over 5x as much error).
 
If you have deep pockets, this one is pretty nice!


To validate your concern, cant error is proportional to the projectile's drop so it is increasingly crucial at longer ranges. And since pellets drop quickly, cant error comes into play at much shorter distances than it does with centerfire rifles. For example a 10.3gr JSB pellet will have as much cant error at 100 yards as a 30-06 will have at 400 yards. Though even at shorter distances it can still be meaningful for a discipline like field target. At 50 yards, a 2° cant angle will produce about 0.2" of lateral error for the same pellet. At 100 yards, the error grows to over 1 inch (i.e. a doubling of distance produces over 5x as much error).


Your level of understanding this somewhat complicated issue, and your skill with math — outstanding, Jason. 👍🏼

Thanks! 😊

Matthias
 
I use this one:


It has a long enough arm that I can mount it forward of the wheel on my field target guns, rifle and pistol, large enough to see and cheap enough that I can buy one for all my scopes.

I also use this one for when the wheel is too large to attach the level to the scope:


It’s a much pricier option, but extremely well made and works very well with larger wheels.

Dennis
 
I use this one:


It has a long enough arm that I can mount it forward of the wheel on my field target guns, rifle and pistol, large enough to see and cheap enough that I can buy one for all my scopes.

I also use this one for when the wheel is too large to attach the level to the scope:


It’s a much pricier option, but extremely well made and works very well with larger wheels.

Dennis
I've tried that one but it is too long to mount on the left due to the scope wheel. For me as a right handed shooter, I want the level on the left so I can see it out of my left eye while shooting. I prefer this one: Lone Star Bubble Level It only has one screw so it's easier to get it level and it has a little point in the center of the level that is easier to see than the little lines. For my WFTF/Open class scopes I 3D print a level so that I can stick a metal pin in the side to use as a pointer.
 
A level attached to the rifle may or may not show level with the thing that matters, which is the reticle. That’s why it is usually preferable to use a scope-mounted level so it can be rotated to fine tune its orientation. A rifle-mounted level may be used but it needs an independent fine adjustment, which the vast majority on the market do not have.
 
Right eye dominant and I am long-sighted. I hate to wear glasses during the day (to save my eyes ;) ), using glasses only when I am doing things with fingers.
Needless to elaborate my troubles with mechanical sights or handguns. For this reason using scopes, and shooting BR from a rest only.
It is really annoying to me to put the glasses on to set the bubble and not seeing how to go around that. Only if there would be scopes with internal bubble, like when you see through a DSLR camera and at the bottom you see a full screen with many things shown.
Shopping now for anything adjustable that don't need to mount on scope tube but with mounting about extended arm length. But only a picatiny rail is out there. I don't like that idea, but it is what it is....
 
Right eye dominant and I am long-sighted. I hate to wear glasses during the day (to save my eyes ;) ), using glasses only when I am doing things with fingers.
Needless to elaborate my troubles with mechanical sights or handguns. For this reason using scopes, and shooting BR from a rest only.
It is really annoying to me to put the glasses on to set the bubble and not seeing how to go around that. Only if there would be scopes with internal bubble, like when you see through a DSLR camera and at the bottom you see a full screen with many things shown.
Shopping now for anything adjustable that don't need to mount on scope tube but with mounting about extended arm length. But only a picatiny rail is out there. I don't like that idea, but it is what it is....
maybe remove one lens from an older pair of your glasses ? Lens in to see level /lens out to use scope ? hahaha one eyed glasses ?
 
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Right eye dominant and I am long-sighted. I hate to wear glasses during the day (to save my eyes ;) ), using glasses only when I am doing things with fingers.
Needless to elaborate my troubles with mechanical sights or handguns. For this reason using scopes, and shooting BR from a rest only.
It is really annoying to me to put the glasses on to set the bubble and not seeing how to go around that. Only if there would be scopes with internal bubble, like when you see through a DSLR camera and at the bottom you see a full screen with many things shown.
Shopping now for anything adjustable that don't need to mount on scope tube but with mounting about extended arm length. But only a picatiny rail is out there. I don't like that idea, but it is what it is....


Atilla,

are you talking about not seeing well when it is close?

I'm suffering from that — and just bought a handful of scope magnifying glasses from MK Machining.

They are not cheap at full price, but they are high quality (an MKM guy onAGN or Sniper's Hide explained the difference — well worth it). And they run specials often.

I use the magnifier for the turret — but it would work just as well for a bubble level.

Matthias
 
...one eyed glasses ?
You see this is a valid idea.
I was using shooting glasses along my years when I was competing archery. I still have couple deep in my drawers somewhere in the basement.
I will swap sides, I needed earlier in front of right eye to see through a peep, but now I would need in front of left eye to see the bubble.

Edit: I found it
I would need to play with it if I could adjust for both eye view and usable for bubble as well. May work on my L2 for close combat actions ;)

20240103_123034.jpg
 
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If you have deep pockets, this one is pretty nice!


To validate your concern, cant error is proportional to the projectile's drop so it is increasingly crucial at longer ranges. And since pellets drop quickly, cant error comes into play at much shorter distances than it does with centerfire rifles. For example a 10.3gr JSB pellet will have as much cant error at 100 yards as a 30-06 will have at 400 yards. Though even at shorter distances it can still be meaningful for a discipline like field target. At 50 yards, a 2° cant angle will produce about 0.2" of lateral error for the same pellet. At 100 yards, the error grows to over 1 inch (i.e. a doubling of distance produces over 5x as much error).
So, I just learned something today. I have never considered the effect of cant on my air rifles, just on my deer rifles when I shoot over 200 yards. Fortunately I use the same shooting techniques with my air rifles. Very interesting.
 
So, I just learned something today. I have never considered the effect of cant on my air rifles, just on my deer rifles when I shoot over 200 yards. Fortunately I use the same shooting techniques with my air rifles. Very interesting.


Yupp! 👍🏼
These forums are great!

And people like nervoustrig are those who make them that way. 😊

Matthias
 
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This is an odd combo, but it worked for my application. Cost around $35 total. I mounted a Sportsmatch recoil stop block on my HW98, and clamped a Hawke level on top of it. Fits perfectly under the scope, and I can observe level by opening my non-dominant eye without breaking cheek weld or focus through the scope. The size of the bubble and the milled reference line make it easy to see and adjust accordingly.

DSC00008.JPG
 
So, I just learned something today.
Yes sir, any day that includes an “I was today years old when I learned” a useful thing, it’s a pretty good day.

I use the mirror to adjust my scopes back to center when I take them off of a rifle .
I think you are describing mechanically centering the reticle in a mirror (where the crosshair and its reflection lie on top of each other).

Elsewhere in this thread a mirror is described for eliminating scope cant by orienting (clocking) the reticle to simultaneously intersect with the objective bell and muzzle.