N/A Scope alignment puzzle

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TG59

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Jul 26, 2021
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MI, United States
I mounted an Optisan 3x12 on an HW95 using Sportsmatch rings. The scope arrived close to optically centered - was verified by mirror method.

Next step was to set up plumb line and at ~ 5 yards and align vertical crosshair. Did this to align bubble level on scope tube with vertical crosshair.

I then set up mirror 5 yards and align vertical crosshairs to centerline of objective lens and muzzle. I must admit that it not not easy to see objective clearly, but it looked close.

FWIW I also had bubble level on dovetail, which was also pretty close.

After snugging all screws down I took outside to have a look. Set up target at 30 yards and leveled grid. When crosshairs aligned with target, scope bubble level is off. If level scope bubble leveled, crosshairs are counterclockwise a few degrees.

Rechecked scope crosshair alignment to plumb bob and scope bubble level matches.

I suspect that scope not aligned to rifle bore resulting in cant error, but what is most sensible way to correct?

I have mounted many scopes on bolt action powder burners successfully and also one PCP. For some reason this springer is not working out.
 
I know the conventional approach is to set a mirror 1/2 the distance of the minimum focus distance, but I often find I have to adjust that distance and/or adjust the focus in order to get a more clear image of the reticle and bore.

Most of my rifles have a shroud cap or shroud that can be removed to exposed the shiny barrel, which makes alignment easier. On a 95 it might be easier to trim down the orange repair sticker from a splatter target and adhere it to the end of the bore. If it has a bonded on moderator it might not be as easy.

Somebody posted a picture of aligning the bore to the reticle recently and I have to admit that I don't always get such a clear image. I'll see if I can find it and tag to poster to see if he has any suggestions.
 
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I'll add. Fresh hw /r you got to finesse in over time. In .177 my easy way for me is set up a card at 10m with a dot or tall cross shoot , learn that click amount that your off and zero on that aim point , once your zeroed on you should be pretty close at 50y and high at 30 . If you want zero at 30 then use / learn holdover/ unders on that scope or measure From the high hit to the bulls and make them appropriate clicks..

Like learned with this one gun. If I'm inch high at 10m I'm close to on at 100.

I keep that in memory and on scratch paper . So pretty much any distance I shoot I can first check and set the scope at 10m for this gun and pellet used . That cuts way down on wasted zeroing pellets spent....lots

Another thing using 10m card is I can do a quick trajectory check . If shoot it and see if my hight is pretty correct or if my windage is off before I shoot the primary range / target

Anyway more you shoot the more you figure this stuff that you finds best and easy for you .

( for a example)
A 10m scope check I just shot. Hight good ,windage good for this scope and gun zeroed @ 100y ( 2 shots 2ed the check shot )

10mscopecheck.jpg

My first shots get this or if something's looking off I got a easy check method.

If it's not then something's a miss somewhere
 
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If I understand what you posted about the bubble level, it’s mounted on the dovetail not the scope itself? If that’s the case and your barrel and scope level are aligned to each other, then change to a bubble level that mounts to the scope tube and adjust it to match the reticle. Take care when tightening that the level remains level,as sometimes it will be pulled slightly off level as you tighten.
 
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lbc_PSI said:
If I understand what you posted about the bubble level, it’s mounted on the dovetail not the scope itself? If that’s the case and your barrel and scope level are aligned to each other, then change to a bubble level that mounts to the scope tube and adjust it to match the reticle. Take care when tightening that the level remains level,as sometimes it will be pulled slightly off level as you tighten.
Click to expand...
Bubble level is on scope. This one was lined up with plumb line. Added on to dovetail to see how close both were. Very close.
 
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Most dovetail rings lean one side or the other. Partly because their is no standard to 11mm dovetail width or depth. If your scope is centered above the bore with an offset ring the rifle has to be canted for your scope level to read correct.
I level the block first then level the scope with a bubble level. Notice the amount of offset of your scope and zero you scope at 25y the same distance L or R as the offset (arbitrary .0625). Check at 50y and maybe you have to adjust L or R a little for that .0625 offset. That's as good as you can do. Some barrels aren't on the same plane L and R as the action and will give the same issue.
Incidentally, BKL rings will not introduce the offset in the first place. They fit every dovetail squarely due to the design of the clamp.
 
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