I have a FX Wildcat .25 and Hawke 6-24 30mm scope. Finding an easy way to zero the scope and shoot the gun is difficult because of trajectory of gun. Does anyone out there have an easy way to zero scope and remember where gun is hitting at different ranges?
Scope adjustment
- Thread starter jland48
- Start date
I've got two ways! 
Scope cap dope charts! They are little charts that you stick inside your scope cap. The Chairgun program from Hawke has an area (I think it's under the "Tools" section) where you can input all your data and it will automatically generate a chart for you to print out, at whatever zoom you choose, using whatever hawke reticle you have. It will print it to whatever size you want as well.
I also use blue painters tape. HERE is a post I made that shows how I used it on my Wildcat. However, it does have graphic content. Thick black lines are to represent the reticle, and pen lines are to represent point of impact (POI) for yardages.
Something to keep in mind is that your Hawke is a second focal plane scope (SFP). So, say you're hitting at 1 mil below center at 6X zoom. If you change to 12X you'll be hitting at 2 mils below center. This means that at 10X you've got some figuring to do. Of course there are ways to do this in the field. I usually only shoot at 2 or 3 zoom settings and memorize my POI's.
For first focal plane scopes, If you're hitting at 1 mil below center at 6x zoom and then change it to ANY other zoom setting it will still hit at 1 mil below center. That's the beauty of FFP scopes and that's why I'm changing all of mine over to FFP's.
I'm sure there are benefits to SFP scopes vs FFP scopes but, that's a different topic for a different thread.
-Tom
Scope cap dope charts! They are little charts that you stick inside your scope cap. The Chairgun program from Hawke has an area (I think it's under the "Tools" section) where you can input all your data and it will automatically generate a chart for you to print out, at whatever zoom you choose, using whatever hawke reticle you have. It will print it to whatever size you want as well.
I also use blue painters tape. HERE is a post I made that shows how I used it on my Wildcat. However, it does have graphic content. Thick black lines are to represent the reticle, and pen lines are to represent point of impact (POI) for yardages.
Something to keep in mind is that your Hawke is a second focal plane scope (SFP). So, say you're hitting at 1 mil below center at 6X zoom. If you change to 12X you'll be hitting at 2 mils below center. This means that at 10X you've got some figuring to do. Of course there are ways to do this in the field. I usually only shoot at 2 or 3 zoom settings and memorize my POI's.
For first focal plane scopes, If you're hitting at 1 mil below center at 6x zoom and then change it to ANY other zoom setting it will still hit at 1 mil below center. That's the beauty of FFP scopes and that's why I'm changing all of mine over to FFP's.
I'm sure there are benefits to SFP scopes vs FFP scopes but, that's a different topic for a different thread.
-Tom
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Jland48,
Check out Chairgun Pro from Hawke optics. It's a very good program that will probably meet all your zeroing and range calculation needs. It's very straight forward. Just spend some time with it and you'll be happy you did. Any questions, post them here and one of the excellent guys on this forum will be sure to answer and help you out with it.
T.J.
http://www.hawkeoptics.com/chairgun.html
Check out Chairgun Pro from Hawke optics. It's a very good program that will probably meet all your zeroing and range calculation needs. It's very straight forward. Just spend some time with it and you'll be happy you did. Any questions, post them here and one of the excellent guys on this forum will be sure to answer and help you out with it.
T.J.
http://www.hawkeoptics.com/chairgun.html
Upvote 0